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Brad Makes Sausage

Bon Appétit Test Kitchen Manager Brad Leone is back with episode 16 of It's Alive. Brad takes a trip to Portland, Oregon to literally see how the sausage is made. He's joined by Elias Cairo of Olympia Provisions, who guides Brad through the process of emulsifying, stuffing, and smoking the meats.

Released on 10/12/2017

Transcript

Sausage!

All right Vinnie you ready to tango?

All right so we're down here,

we're over in Portland, Oregon we came down for The Feast.

We're over here with good ole Elias from Olympia Provisions.

Me.

And today we're gonna make a little sausage.

Oh get out of here with this.

The USDA making fun of us.

Oh we've got the USDA, we're not scared of the USDA.

Why would we be scared of the USDA.

We're right on point here.

(upbeat cheerful music)

Just to start off, you wanna tell us a little bit

about what we're going to be doing?

Yes, we'll be making emulsified sausage.

So we'll take lean meat and white protein,

we're gonna throw it in the bowl chopper

and it creates a Myosin bind, just like mayonnaise.

Myosin bind.

And then you throw in fat and that gets particularized

and then the lean meat suspends all these fat particles

so when you cook it, proteins bind.

Are you with me?

Plenty of science behind this.

So when you eat it it tastes smooth and nice

Right it sets up. And moist it's not all

(beep) and grainy like a lot of those sausages out there.

Becomes one.

Becomes one.

So I guess lets check this apparatus out huh Vinnie?

Let's do this.

So yeah this is, what I was saying,

this thing is gonna roll around,

those blades get spinning like crazy.

We put the meat in, make our emulsification,

put all the ingredients in, fold in the fat.

All right cool so we got our ingredients.

Yup.

And over here we got some spices.

So yeah this is the Vinnie get in here bud.

This is stuff.

Right there is the cultured dextrose,

you've got yourself some celery salt there,

we got garlic and then the seasonings,

chili flake, cumin, coriander.

We ground those earlier.

And this is the rosemary extract that we put in water.

I thought it was beer.

We'll get that later.

And then this is ice.

Dump it in there.

The whole thing?

Yup.

And put that next one in.

Do you see how good I am at delegating?

This is the time Oh God!

I like to reflect on.

That's not too much huh?

Well.

This bad boy can handle it.

We'll see huh?

That's what we're all about, learning together.

Wow.

Mayonnaise right?

Oh look at that.

( Elias vocalizing)

That's a beautiful thing, look at that man.

We're gonna turn that into paste.

We're gonna turn that into emulsification.

Boom.

Science Vinnie.

So this'll give you a nice even mixture as well.

Yeah.

Man this machine is cool! Oh yeah.

I gotta say Elias.

You can do anything.

Dump it in.

Dumping.

And then what, we're gonna ice it right in.

Ice. Right in.

Keep it all nice and cold.

Turn it down, make sure it's up, that's it.

150 seconds.

Yeah since we've got about a few seconds

I heard you mention.

That goes in.

Alright hold on.

You can already see the colors changing,

Yeah what you're looking for is your lean ones here,

you're starting to see it stick together.

Start forming little legs in there.

Between the proteins.

Right right.

Got it.

Good.

Sounds complicated but it's kinda,

Literally easy.

Yeah, it's pretty Yeah.

So it's amazing when you eat a bad sausage.

You see how easy it is that people (beep) it up still.

It's (beep) mayonnaise.

Meat mayonnaise!

That's it all day.

Let's see if I did that right.

Stop. We can stop.

Now you can see it's nice and particularized.

Yeah!

Most sausage people do eat it.

Really?

Oh yeah.

Oh you sure?

It's pork, it's not gonna kill ya.

Tastes like a hot dog.

Something like that.

Get there.

Oh god.

It's so good.

Texture, melty.

It is cold.

It's actually pretty good.

Yeah. You eat a lot of that.

I don't know if I should.

I mean I don't even know if you're gonna die now so.

I can't believe you did that!

We're cheesing?

Yeah.

All right, roger that.

There it is 30 seconds.

30 seconds ayyhh.

Just mixing in.

Now we get to empty it.

Now we're gonna chop the, oh god.

Oh would you look at that.

Wouldya?

Make sure that falls in the right spot.

Oh yeah baby look at that!

That makes me feel kinda good.

Yeah that does, relieving.

Man you know who's gonna love this, my mom.

Ever since I was little she always had my dad

make her a cheese hot dog and they would just split

the hot dog and put some, like you know,

A little onion on top?

Some kind of B.S. cheese in there.

Let's send it to her tonight.

We're gonna get her some of this man.

Yeah.

Heads gonna blow up.

Get this cleaned real quick.

Kind of reminds me of, remember Ghost?

Yeah.

Patrick Swayze.

Oh yeah, do you want me to get behind you?

Let me teach you the ways!

Patrick!

Everybody loves a little Swayze.

Come on Swayze, was that Whoopi? Who was that?

I just remember Patrick.

(laughter)

Yeah Whoopi was in that.

Patrick and Whoopi right?

Patrick and Whoopi.

Well wait Patrick was the ghost, he was dead.

Yeah.

And Whoopi was in there by herself right?

Was it Whoopi? Or was it another?

Where the hell was Whoopi?

Whoopi,

(laughter)

Oh she sees Patrick.

No wait.

But there's, I was Whoopi right there

he was Pat right? Like he

I was Pat you were a different girl.

What!

Yeah buddy.

We just got done chopping up all the meat,

mixing all the ingredients,

can you tell us now what we're going to be doing with that?

We're gonna stuff it and what this is it's a

it's a stuffer.

Oh yeah Vinnie getting that?

It dumps over here you can watch it fall in there Vinnie.

That's just rewarding.

So what are you, what are these casings you got?

These are hog casings, 35 Which is an intestine?

Yeah exactly.

This is a break right here.

Set that see where we're at.

Oh wow it just does, oh man!

When I do this back home sometimes with my friends

or with my dad you got that hand,

and you don't have that nice portion control.

No it sucks.

I'm always ripping them.

They got out of whack, they're too long,

then you gotta go back to how you used to do it all.

Right the spinner, the opposite spinner.

The spin exactly.

Crazy thing is is that it's not that hard is it?

Beautiful work you're doing there.

All right I see what's going on.

See that?

And this goes right on here.

Kinda give it, see a little one finger

in between each one there,

so the smoke can get in there.

Get in there.

Uh oh hold on. Cut!

Cut Vinnie.

All right here we go.

(beeping)

Oh man he made that look easy.

All right here we go.

Feed it through?

Nope close it.

There it is.

Oh god!

Look at that no hands!

Right out of the bat.

I'll tell you what whoever set up that machine.

Sweet job!

This is oh oh god! Stop.

No.

Do a little cut here.

Yes sir.

Go and trim that up.

In sausage making that will happen.

That will happen.

Right? It's inevitable. It's inevitable.

All right Vinnie you ready for this?

Fire in the hole babe.

Ooh! Oh god.

Oh no. Oh no stop.

Oh we've lost our casing here Vinnie.

I'm gonna try and troubleshoot it.

Get in there.

There we go.

All right ready Vinnie?

Fire in the hole.

Fire in the hole.

Oh sausage slinging baby!

Look at that.

Certain things you just can't teach.

Look at that.

Oh yeah what did you say?

Like screwing things up!

We're not gonna stuff all this sausage cuz

tomorrow night for Feast Portland good ole Elias

and I are gonna be stuffing sausage right on site,

grilling em up, cooking them.

So if you're in the area, well actually you won't see this

in time so.

(laughter)

Nevermind!

Oh fire in the hole!

You see that thing go shooting out?

I'm having a lot of blowouts.

Is that?

Lack of professionalism, where should I start?

Yeah?

Sometimes you get a (beep) casing.

Let me hook you up.

It's gonna come slinging. Okay,

just little adjustments?

Yeah, little,

But you wanna keep it nice okay.

Keep it nice.

But you're gonna wanna keep it nice.

Just like cooking you know you gotta make little

adjustments sometimes.

Yeah you know?

You definitely wanna make it nice.

See how we did there.

Fire in the hole.

Oh we're slinging sausage now baby.

There you're back.

Oh god.

So you gotta find that sweet spot.

Shut up Vinnie.

Oh there you go now.

Oh!

(laughter)

So we stuffed them, they're all set ready to go now

it's obviously still raw.

Yup.

So what you like to do is smoke them.

Yup.

And you have, Vinnie over there,

you got those chambers.

You got a nice little blend of wood chips in here?

Yup we got a 2/3 apple, 1/3 hickory.

The applewood right sweetness and then the hickory

gives it better color.

And also guards good, but what's so great about these

is this is truly just a hot plate.

Nice smoke and then in the back it's got a little

fan runs up there.

Sucks it in the chamber.

Yup. And once in the chamber it gets,

you know distributed over the product.

All right cool so lets take a peak in this chamber.

Let's get a knife so we can eat something out of it.

You have a knife on you?

I do actually.

Look at that thing.

Such a classy gentleman always.

They're just finishing up right now.

God that smells so goddamn good.

Yeah look at that.

Isn't that beautiful?

That skin totally got a nice, that smoke kinda covered it

and kissed it up nice. Beautiful color.

Let's give it a little cut first.

Check it out Vinnie.

Aw yeah.

Aw yeah nice and juicy, got that little cheese spot.

Ooh buddy.

Now when you get these right out of the package,

You're gonna have to heat them.

Now what's your preferred method, just grill them up?

If you're a patient person you can put them off to the

side of indirect heat.

And just let them fluff up.

Let them kinda slowly plump up and get crisp

but most people don't do that so they put them

directly on a grill.

They burst open, the outside burns.

The best way for anybody at home I always say,

bring them to a simmer in hot water or beer.

Yup.

And then just crisp them up on a grill.

So obviously we don't see pigs running around here.

Thank goodness it'd be weird.

When you source your pork, you looking for a

nice quality pork, you probably have good relationships

with your farmers.

Absolutely and we're only getting better at it

as we keep growing, we keep giving, you know,

we keep being able to purchase more pork

and then set better standards that are also helping

the farmers out.

We all grow together in Oregon,

making the best quality pork

and also giving back to the land so the land,

That's important.

And I gotta say you know tip of the sausage to you

because I'll take it.

_ it reflects in the product.

It really does.

I mean if it, you can't polish a turd right?

Speak into the sausage.

Can't polish a turd there bud.

Well we tried.

(laughter)

All right so we just wrapped up over at the sausage

making production facility.

They got a little restaurant right down the street.

Olympia Provisions South East, cute little restaurant.

If you're ever in town, swing by.

We got them to cook up some of this stuff that we made.

Let me take a bite of this huh Vinnie.

Great snap, great bread,

put yourself a little pickled onion on there

or something, a little mustard

man you'll be living the dream.

Got that nice little cheese pocket in there.

That emulsification , that's how its got that real nice

kinda like bouncy all uniform texture through out it.

Nice amount of smoke on there,

real good crispy snappy skin.

And all they did was reheat these.

Get yourself a little cold beer, something like a

pilsner or something, real crisp refreshing.

And you doing all right man.

Bon appetite Vinnie.

You gotta get in on this bud.

Cheers.

Yeah what would you,

(gibberish in slow motion)

Featuring: Brad Leone

Photo of Patrick Swayze modified and courtesy of Alan Light Photo of Demi Moore modified and courtesy of David Shankbone Photo of Whoopi Goldberg modified and courtesy of Georges Biard Photo of Ice Cube modified and courtesy of Eva Rinaldi Photo of Ice T modified and courtesy of Vicky (vic_sf49)

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