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Reviews

Pork cutlet, romesco and caramelised onion.
15.5/20

Can’t get into Firedoor? Drive to this more affordable fire-driven Central Coast gem

Osteria il Coccia exclusively uses fire and coals, but unlike Firedoor, it happily accepts walk-ins and a $49 pork cutlet is big enough to share.

  • Callan Boys
20 Chapel
15/20

‘There’s no restaurant quite like it’: Is that a good thing at this ex-Rockpool chef’s new steakhouse?

A mix of local grittiness, fine-dining refinement and sizzle, Corey Costelloe’s 20 Chapel is hard to categorise, easy to like, and feels right for its time.

  • Terry Durack
Head chef Yusuke Morita at work preparing sushi with his wife Izumi.
15/20

This tiny six-seater is the size of a bento box, but it packs a wasabi-like punch

One of Sydney’s tiniest restaurants, Kisuke delivers a larger-than-life omakase experience.

  • Terry Durack
Go-to dish: Salsiccia e funghi pizza.
14.5/20

It won the Haberfield pizza duel, but is this icon still one of Sydney’s best pizzerias?

La Disfida’s warm-lit dining room and wood-fired winter cooking has serious pulling power.

  • Callan Boys
15/20

Fine dining meets fusion at this ‘slightly otherworldly’ Circular Quay showpiece

Former Aria chef Daeun Kang’s fusion of French and Japanese cooking plays out on every plate at the luxurious Oborozuki.

  • Terry Durack
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Brian and Sabrina Dias, the proud proprietors of Baked at Bina’s.

The suburban bakery pulling in customers from Melbourne, Perth and even further for a taste of home

Treats abound at Baked at Bina’s in Earlwood: fried, sugar-dusted Portuguese doughnuts, just-baked custard tarts and soft-centred Brazilian rolls.

  • Lenny Ann Low
Pro tip: Check the Port Authority cruise-ship calendar before booking, so your view is unobstructed.
19/20

With a near-perfect score of 19/20, this is now Australia’s top-rated restaurant

There are few overblown adjectives that haven’t been used for Quay under Peter Gilmore’s tenure, writes Callan Boys.

  • Callan Boys
15/20

Icon review: Why one of Sydney’s oldest Indian restaurants is also one of its hottest

After 35 years in business, proud pan-Indian pioneer Abhi’s is still going strong.

  • Terry Durack
Kimusabi.

New ‘sushi’ spot offers bargain $35 omakase experience just off Newtown’s meat-free mile

Plant-based Japanese venue Kimusabi on Enmore Road takes sushi to a new, creative level with a vegan twist.

  • Lee Tran Lam
Whiting parma (top left) and campanelle pasta carbonara with house-cured kingfish collar (centre).
14/20

Bet you’ve never had a parma or a carbonara like these before, Sydney

What was fine-diner The Gantry at Pier One Sydney Harbour hotel is now a simpler affair, but the comfort food has more to it than you might expect.

  • Terry Durack