We experienced a fully relaxing luxurious experience when visiting Matsuzakaya Honten this week. For 2 days, this historical Ryokan Onsen treated us to accommodations and gustatory delights far exceeding our expectations. I’m actually sitting in the lobby awaiting our taxi writing this, and I wish that we could stay for another night.
Even before our physical arrival the staff demonstrated great care in reaching out to coordinate our arrival. We were a bit late for check in, and they worked their schedule around us, giving us a tour of the facility in an unrushed manner, and arranging our first meal to closely fit our needs.
We learned much about this historic compound on our first night, including its multi-century reputation as a meeting place for the elites of Japan and visitors from far abroad. The details of architecture, furnishings, and baths were explained with great care. Aside from the 2 public baths (gender separated, but swapping each day to allow full exploration of both bathing experiences), there are 5 reservable private baths. While we had a family room with a private outdoor onsen, it was fun to try the other options as well. In terms of the room, all of the usual amenities were on hand, as well as many many extras, including an inclusive beverage service in the lobby (both non alcoholic and a variety of spirits and draft beer), and additional complementary soft & hard drinks were included every day in the room. There are multiple lounges throughout the property which we explored, relaxed, and gamed in. The restaurant area on the second floor was where we enjoyed kaiseki breakfast and dinner.
In terms of our room, it was quite large and easily accommodated the 4 of us comfortably. It had its own sitting areas, powder and toilet rooms, and of course a beautiful outdoor bathing area with an additional deck for lounging. The volcanic, sulfur and mineral infused water of the onsen bath was rejuvenating on physical, mental, and emotional levels, as one can appreciate the misty mountain scenery in the distance as one bathes in the stimulating (heat adjustable) volcanic bath after showering per the standard onsen ritual. I found myself contemplating many creative and productive thoughts in this wonderful l state. After bathing, wearing a yukata provided by Matsuzakaya Honten (customized to our size and design preferences upon arrival) completed an amazing bathing experience! I will admit that I felt very privileged and luxurious, bathing in the onsens 3 times or more each day!
In the evening, the dinner was astounding, visually, texturally, and gustatorily (if I can use that neologism). Each of the 9 or so courses was based on carefully sourced produce and proteins, and ranged from stews, sushi selections, grilled & fried plates, and tastefully refreshing desserts. Some examples include fried abalone, wagyu beef, and local fish. It was equivalent, in our opinion, to Michelin star fair that we have enjoyed during previous excursions. Needless to say, the traditional Japanese breakfast each of our mornings reflected these same values, techniques, and care.
Throughout the facility, the service was without compare. Very often, we felt as if we were the only guests at this large facility, an illusion successful due to the expertise of each and every staff member that we encountered. No question was left unanswered, even with my poor grasp of Japanese, as each team member greeted any challenge with more than a smile. The attention to detail and compassion of the staff was a work of art itself.
All in all, I cannot recommend Matsuzakaya Honten enough! My family and I hope to return to this magical, comfortable and welcoming Ryokan in future years!
