Lucinda O’Sullivan’s review: With high-end food at low prices, The Sea Rooms at Kelly’s Hotel is superb on all counts

At the top of the game yet always improving, the renowned family-run hotel is a jewel in the crown of Irish tourism says our critic who was impressed on her recent visit

Barbecued beef short rib, smoked aubergine, marinated baby beetroot, sauce poivre. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan

Lucinda O'Sullivan

​The fact that the world was paralysed by the Covid-19 lockdowns didn’t stop Bill Kelly and his daughter Laura from looking to the future and investing heavily in the creation of The Sea Rooms, a stand-alone shoreside contemporary glass box restaurant in the lush gardens of Kelly’s Resort in Rosslare. It opened last summer with cutting-edge young chef Chris Fullam at the helm.

A family business for many generations, Kelly’s first opened in 1895, surviving through two world wars, and the highs and lows of the Celtic Tiger and recessionary years. They’ve never stood still and each year, during the winter season, they have either developed some new aspect or thrown fresh light on the existing amenities through renovations, innovations and renewals.