Showing posts with label Barcelona. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Barcelona. Show all posts

Saturday 5 March 2011

European football road trip - Part 2


Tom, Chris, Jamie, Ben, Andy Barcelona. And Lyon.

A minor crisis at EFW Towers this week. After penning part one of this epic two-part series whereby five lads set out to conquer Europe in a car named Beyonce, or was it Emile? Anyway, Jamie Cutteridge was lured away by a multi-pound deal with Jonathan Wilson's new production The Blizzard (everybody is talking about it). 

Fear not fans of National Lampoon's European Vacation-esque shenanigans, with a football twist, for riding through the crowd in a knight of shining armor to continue the story is brilliant young sports writer Tom Goulding.....

So that was Zaragoza 0-1 Atletico Madrid.

The Eurotrip group leader Jamie Cutteridge, assistant-to-the-leader Ben, Andy, Chris ‘Equaliser’ Mann and I regrouped on Sunday morning in our Barcelona hostel, before heading into the city centre with an afternoon to kill before Barcelona vs Athletic in the evening.


 A strange lack of Catalan coverage on the previous night’s win for Real Madrid

The group enjoyed a leisurely walk down Las Ramblas and around the pier, with our minds firmly on what sort of Barcelona we were about to see that evening – would it be the lukewarm, defensively porous Barcelona of the Emirates, or the overwhelming Blaugrana of the November Clasico and of countless other matches over the past few years?


Were we in Orange County?

Overpriced tapas, a cool breeze, a Catalan sunset, a game of categories of players to have scored volleys at Turf Moor – the time soon passed until we needed to get the metro to the stadium.

Approaching the ground in the short walk from the metro station, we witnessed the countless bars and cafes overflowing with Blaugrana and the rojiblanco of the Athletic fans, all jovily enjoying drinks and sharing stories with each other. A far cry from the Green Street pubs I didn’t enjoy last September. We turned down the offers of countless street stalls, who were selling the all too common Spanish snack combination of bread-meat-bread, and we went our separate ways into the stadium early doors.

FC Barcelona 2-1 Athletic Bilbao (20:02:11)

Chris and I were sat up high in the top tier of the stadium, right behind the goal of the Lampard end of Camp Nou. As the countless fellow plastics with their shiny new replica kits filled the majestic beast of a stadium, we were transfixed by the casual chest control and 40-yard volley drill Lionel Messi and Daniel Alves were doing with each other. Minutes went by without the ball touching the ground. “Bale could do that to himself” I said to Chris.

The noise I could hear was the brave singing of the couple of hundred Basque travelling fans to our right, interjected occasionally by the hooter being honked by the teenage Barca fan in the row behind, which is the most annoying noise in the world™. His attempts to impress his girlfriend with the amplitude of his horn was not going to interfere with my appreciation of the Barca anthem as the players marched out onto the pitch. “Barça, Barça, Baaarça!” I half expected the final player Sergio Busquets to march out dressed as a nervous high school marching band girl playing the trumpet. He didn’t, and we got on with the match.


Athletic would have won if they had gone 4-4-2

Villa turned in an Alves cross (“Offside!” cried Marca) on 3 minutes to make it 1-0 to the home side, and we wondered whether this was to be a contest at all. But Barcelona’s commendable commitment to never shoot meant that for all their possession, the half-time score remained 1-0.

As the hot dog queue took me into the first five minutes of the second half, I heard wails from the stands and rushed back into my seat to see Athletic with a penalty right below me after Busquets had tripped Llorente. Without time to ask the Catalans next to me if Busquets had not raised his arms to cancel the foul, Atheltic’s Andoni Iraola tucked away the penalty past Pinto, and a small voice inside me (not literally) was shouting the name of the Basque left-back, in wild celebrations at the sight of the underdog upsetting the all-conquering behemoth at their own ground, something I have longed for so many times over the years watching the Premier League.


Where were you when you were shit?

However, I eventually sat back and marvelled at the spectacle I knew I would not often witness. Thousands reached for their white handkerchiefs as Messi was shoved off the ball in the area but a penalty was, incredibly, not forthcoming. Iniesta twisted and turned, weaved in and out, tying up Athletic players in their own logic. His opponents could only manage to cry out in angst at the failure of their own defensive paradigm in the face of such magic. Messi, quiet by his standards (Lazy.), accelerated into the space but he was denied. They all were being denied. Would they fail to pick up a win for the third time in a week? Might they even lose, at the hands of a tormenting bald, Basque substitute, Gaizka Toquero? It seemed so easy back on 3 minutes....

No, they would not fail. Messi turned in an Alves cross on 77 to clinch the match and the Camp Nou breathed a collective sigh of relief. I had seen the late home goal for the favourites crush the dreams of the plucky underdogs so often before, but like Kevin Spacey in the underrated American Airlines commercial, I had to just smile and clap. We had witnessed one of the greatest sides to have played the game we love, and we had seen them win a match.

While the rest of the group spent Monday at the Catalan F1 Track to see some testing (MOTOR SPORT IS NOT REAL SPORT), I spent the day in the city that I barely got to know in a week’s time spent there in 2007. In the gardens of the Sagrada Familia (named the ‘Salgado Familia’ by one of Chris’ twitter buddies), I mused: could anyone else even hope to achieve the elegance of Iniesta again? Who else has controlled top-level games to such an extent as Xavi does week in, week out? Do Italian BMTs taste the same abroad?


[Amusing photo caption about Barcelona beach]

Without anymore time to be pretentious, I met up with the lads to start our overnight drive to Lyon, to see Lyon vs Real Madrid the following evening in the Champions League. 

Arriving in the morning, we didn’t want to suffer a repeat of Stade-Metropole-gate. After sitting in a thoroughly depressing car park for several hours playing categories (Yes, ‘sunbaked terracotta’ is a colour. Check with Dulux.) we then joined European football whore Andy Brassell for a thoroughly enjoyable drink in the centre of Lyon before the evening’s match, answering a few questions along the way. Would Lyon do as well as last year’s triumph over Los Merengues? (No.) Would Mourinho play three holding midfielders as predicted by the Lyon Morning Echo? (No.) Where can we steal free wifi from before the game? (Bar Ninkasi Gerland).

After satisfying our thirst for lash at the Bar Ninkasi, we proceeded into the stadium, walking up majestic stone steps onto raised ground as Fanfar For The Common Man all played in our respective heads.. We were tucked away in the corner of the end to the right of the camera, where away fans used to be if you have watched previous ties at the Gerland. Although we were very much in the home end, there were a number of Ronaldo fan boys with replica Madrid kits around us, who would yelp every time the Portuguese star fired a ball into the empty net in the warm-up. 200 Madrid fans (of which about 8 sung) sat across from us on the side stand, a surprisingly low number notwithstanding the absence of an away fan culture in Spain.

Olympique Lyonnais 1-1 Real Madrid (22:02:11)

The first half was a very typical Champions League first leg first half – cagey, tight, entropic. Ozil, Di Maria and Adebayor were all fairly lightweight. Ronaldo’s first touch saw him go down under the lightest of touches, and due to the precarious nature of our standing position (on flat slabs of seats), when I stepped forward to wave an imaginary card at the referee, my momentum took my down four rows and into a rather large man.



A very well-lit Stade Gerland

Real didn’t look threatening until early into the second half, and with the introduction of Karim Benzema they opened the deadlock. Until then Lyon had looked the most likely like scoring, through a strong combination of Michel Bastos and Aly Cissokho on the left. Benzema combined with Ronaldo with his first touch and bundled the ball in – disaster for Lyon, as a 0-0 would have been a fairly good result for the home side. Incredibly however, Bafetimbi Gomis, the Lyon striker, who had been doing his best Carlton Cole impression all game, found space in the box late on and guided the ball past Iker Casillas. Neither team was too disappointed with the scoreline, and the game ended.

We trudged back to Bar Ninkasi before heading back to our car for the overnight drive to Dunkirk ferry port and monotonous ol’ England. What had we learnt from the past six days? That Atletico could do it on a cold and windy night in Aragon. That the relative altitude of the city of Lyon means that it can be incredibly windy and cold.  That Barcelona has a beach. That players as good as Iniesta and Messi really do exist. That Karl Pilkington’s brother got sacked from the Army for going to the shops in a tank. And that David’s Platt mother-in-law does a really good serving of pork pies.

Goodnight everyone.

That was part 2. I dare you to CLICK ME for a look back on Part 1.

You'll be wanting to follow the lads on Twitter now I'm guessing, so click on their names to allow their wit and charm to enter into your life on a daily basis: Tom, Chris, Jamie, Ben and Andy.

Good lord. It's an Andy Brassell interview. 

- Feel free to comment below - 

Tuesday 6 January 2009

Barcelona - Part 1


Nou that's what I call a holiday.

Barcelona 3-1 Real Mallorca (03:01:09)

With eleven festive days in hand it would have been far too easy to fly directly from London to Barcelona. Therefore the wife and I escapaded our way across Spain like Don Quixote and Sancho Panza getting into little adventures en route before making our way to Catalonia.

We travelled through Castilla La Mancha taking in Madrid (my favourite city in Europe), Cuenca (where I got married in 2005 and home to the best tapas in Spain), Cañete (where I spent a few nights drinking until silly o'clock) and Salinas del Manzano (population 107 and home to my in-laws, who live above the only bar in the village, which they own - good old life).

Salinas del Manzano

In Cañete I met Vicente Adam Carrasco. Vicente Adam Carrasco! Vicente used to play for UD Salamanca in the 70's and he was there celebrating Christmas with his wife and friends. As we propped up the bar he told me of the days when he used to man-mark the likes of Mario Kempes, Hugo Sanchez, Johan Cruyff and Laurie Cunningham. Indeed Cunningham used to visit his house and Vicente has promised me photographic evidence of this in the near future.

He we all are in Bar Jaleo, Cañete at around 4am. Our man is in the white shirt and glasses.

The chap in the red shirt (in the above photo) told me he was the one who advised Lionel Messi to go to Barcelona. He also said that if Spain was a doughnut, Real Madrid would be the whole in the middle. Who knows if all this is true but it was a great night whatever.

After a week of eating, drinking, walking and talking it was time to head to Barcelona. To get there from Salinas del Manzano, we had to take the coach. There is only one a day and in order to get tickets, I had to flag down the coach two days beforehand and pop a note to the driver with my instructions. The following day, I had to flag down the coach again and the driver popped the tickets out of the window. On the third day we actually boarded said coach. Good old (village) life!

The coach took eight hours. It was most amusing to observe the colour come back into the faces of my fellow passengers each time we stopped and they could smoke again. I guesstimate that 98% of Spaniards smoke and it's my (unfounded) belief that they teach smoking in Spanish schools.

We stayed with friends in Castelldefels just outside of Barcelona. It's a small town in which Lionel Messi (him again), Ronaldo, Ronaldinho and a host of other footballers have houses. In fact Messi (him yet again) goes shopping in the Argentinian food shop next door to the house in which I was staying. How is that for a claim to fame!? (2/10 - Ed).

We arrived in town seven hours prior to kick off. I met up with my pal Alberto and his family from Mallorca. Alberto has a Real Mallorca season ticket but actually supports Barca. The last time I was at his abode he sat through a family meal with an earpiece in, listening to a Barcelona game on the radio. Obviously, we get on famously.

Alberto's son Carlos gets into the EFW spirit.

We walked up and down the La Rambla, sunk a few beers in the Barrio Gotico district and then Alberto and I waved our white flags and headed off to the match two hours early, leaving our families in town to buy hamsters etc.

'You'll never walk alone' here.

It's 'Money for old scissors' in La Rambla.

We had to meet up with Alberto's brother-in-law (Carlos) and his mates outside the ground. Thankfully, it was decided that the pub was the way forwards. There are lots of different ways to approach the Camp Nou but we opted for Les Corts metro station and then headed to the Les Corts Cervecera (bar) to sink some more bevingtons and talk football/nonsense.

Alberto and I in Les Corts with my new mates: Carlos, Jordi, Vincec and Carlets.

They've rarely had it so good at the Camp Nou. Barca are umpty thrumpty points clear in La Liga and they keep beating teams by cricket scores. A fortnight earlier in the same stadium, arch rivals Real Madrid left chuffed with the fact they'd only lost two nil and chants of "Madrid, cabron, saluda al campeon!" (Madrid, you bastards, bow down before the champions!) rang out towards the end of the match.

Real Mallorca on the other hand are in complete turmoil. The clubs owners are in the construction business which has (obviously) gone tits up and they are in debt, have sold all their best players and earlier this season went through three Presidents in four days. This was going to be a massacre.

Disturbing scenes outside the Camp Nou. Hooters + jester hats = my worst nightmare.

On the approach to the ground the home fans were marvelling in the fact that they are currently the best team in Europe. There were cats kissing dogs and gangs of youths helping old ladies cross the road. Our match tickets cost €34 which in English money is about £34 - I did that in my head. For that we got a seat two rows from the front in the third tier. Tickets are always (aside from Real Madrid) available outside the stadium on the day of the game. For this match only(!) 60,000 fans bothered turning up which was 38,000 below capacity.

From the outside the ground is actually quite an ugly mass of grey concrete. The club plan to address this and have signed up Sir Norman Foster no less to oversea the complete modernisation of the Camp Nou. It certainly needs it. Inside, it's hard not to be impressed by the shear size of everything but I don't know, give me a smaller ground with a bit of terracing and some proper atmosphere anytime. Maybe they need to sell beer inside to get the crowd going!? Currently they only sell non-alcoholic stuff in the concourses.

I asked Carlos why the atmosphere and the tifo display against Real Madrid was so poor for the previous home match. "Because it was raining" he said. Catalan people hate the rain. Attendences at the Camp Nou can vary from 20,000 to 98,000 depending on the weather and the opponents.

Astonishingly, in the 15th minute Real Mallorca took the lead. Time stood still as Aduriz broke through and lofted the ball over Valdez. This wasn't in the script and nobody had a Johnathan Ross what was going on. Alberto and I, out of shock more than anything else got up and celebrated. Nobody took any notice of us. There weren't any Real Mallorca fans in the ground so we had to do something.

Thierry Henry restored parity by equalising in the 31st minute, sweeping in a left foot effort before becoming one of a splendid 13 players to get booked. The game then laboured a bit as we all waited for the inevitable Barca onslaught. It didn't come for ages so Barca decided to bring Iniesta off the bench. He had an immediate impact and scored almost straight away with a goal so offside he was (almost) too embarrassed to celebrate. Then Toure provided us with a bit of class adding a third just after Josemi had been sent off.

Carlos, myself and Alberto.

Personally, I don't think it can be all that enjoyable supporting a great club. Barca fans can only get themselves up for Real Madrid and maybe two Champions League games a season. Beating Real Mallorca doesn't register much on the excitement richter scale. So here is a fact for you; supporting the best team in Europe is boring! As a consequence there was no atmosphere in the ground at all.

In saying that, there was some noise being made by those horrendous hooters. Those deplorable pieces of plastic have no place inside a football ground or anywhere in society at all. I have written a letter to the Spanish FA demanding Barca be deducted points as a result of those hooters. I shall keep you abreast.

After the match we headed back to Castelldefels until 5am. We ended up in some sort of illegal drinking den. Alberto and I somehow managed to beat all the locals and the landlord at darts, winning free beers for the most of the night in the process.

Whilst talking our usual nonsense, we decided that the surrounding streets outside the Camp Nou lack any sort of real supporters bars. As such we are going to create 'Bar Barca'. Our pub will be bedecked with scarves, memorabilia and have a photo of Steve Archibald above the fire place. Barca attract thousands of tourists to their ground every week. Who wouldn't want to have a beer in Bar Barca!? This time next year.........