Vogue Business

GIVENCHY has a new CEO. While #Givenchy has yet to appoint its next creative director following the departure of Matthew Williams back in January, LVMH announced on Tuesday that the house has a new CEO: former president of EMEA (Europe, Middle East and Africa) at Louis Vuitton, Alessandro Valenti. The news comes after LVMH announced a new CEO for Fendi, Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou, effective 1 June. Angeloglou has been managing director of the LVMH Fashion Group since March. Meanwhile, there are persistent rumours concerning upcoming changes at the creative head of Celine. Here, Laure Guilbault breaks down everything to know: https://lnkd.in/erankxB6

Last night in New York, Marc Jacobs hosted its AW24 collection filled with doll-like fashions including oversized-printed gowns and extreme lashes. "We use fashion to embrace bold and courageous self-expression to articulate and showcase our inner selves, allowing us to freely explore and display our thoughts, desires, and identities," the designer said ahead of the show. It's a trend that's becoming popular, even more than the girlhood trend, the doll aesthetic is a poignant avenue for escapism. Here, Madeleine Schulz explores how surrealism and fantasy are dominating the runways: https://lnkd.in/epQ3NF4u

Richemont’s management reshuffle continues. Louis Ferla, currently chief executive officer of Vacheron Constantin, will succeed Cyrille Vigneron as chief executive officer of the group’s largest brand Cartier, effective 1 September. “Cartier has improved in terms of perceived innovation and communication, which has resulted in greater appeal among younger customers,” Exane analyst Antoine Belge told #VogueBusiness in 2021. “He has earned the admiration and respect of his colleagues across the group and of the industry at large for having brilliantly positioned Vacheron Constantin at the pinnacle of haute horlogerie,” Richemont chairman Johann Rupert said in a statement.

The 2024 Paris #Olympics chaos drove GmbH back to its hometown, Berlin, to show its Spring/Summer 2025 collection yesterday. “When we were speaking to the French #fashion federation about organising a show during the Olympics, it seemed like there was so much red tape and additional work, so pragmatically we thought maybe it’s not worth it this time,” Huseby explains ahead of the show. “It was also quite emotionally and politically driven. Living in Germany and seeing how the political climate is, we feel now more than ever that it’s important to show our community and culture and push that narrative in a German context.” The collection, titled ‘Resistance Through Rituals’, was presented on the first day of Berlin Fashion Week at iconic Berlin events venue Tempodrom - featuring boxer shorts and blazers with lapels that wrapped around the head to form a hood, inspired by what boxers wear into the ring. Maliha Shoaib spoke to the founders about their decision to show at #BerlinFashionWeek, what it means to be a ‘political’ brand and what’s next: https://lnkd.in/eiHRuzfy

Studies show that women are undervalued and overlooked at work. Researchers at Yale, MIT and the University of Minnesota recently found at a large retail chain that women were 14% less likely to be promoted. Women were consistently judged as having lower leadership potential than men, even though women’s job performance was consistently rated higher on performance reviews. Join #VogueBusiness at London’s Soho House & Co 180 House on Thursday 25 July, for a morning event, during which executive European editor Kirsty McGregor will discuss the findings from Vogue Business’s exploration into what fashion would look like if women were in charge. The session will be followed by a Q&A and time to network and connect with fellow members. Tap to reserve your place now! https://lnkd.in/eBTxgXDa

Working late, travelling and keeping up with the pace of the #fashion calendar: the lifestyle that the fashion industry requires isn’t conducive to a healthy work-life balance for working mothers. #VogueBusiness's Maliha Shoaib spoke to 15 mothers working in fashion. Many of them said they struggled with feeling left behind after taking maternity leave and felt exceptional pressure to prove themselves back at work. Others weren’t able to take meaningful maternity leave at all, particularly those working as freelancers and business owners. Childcare costs were another pain point. Here's how #fashion can get it right.

What would fashion look like if women were in charge? Of the top 30 #luxury brands in the #VogueBusiness Index, only seven of the creative director roles are currently held by women. Why aren’t more women at the top? This conversation is as old as some of the biggest fashion houses but with a few creative director positions yet to be filled, it's more relevant than ever. Isn’t making clothes that women can actually wear better for business? During Viard’s tenure, CHANEL’s #fashion business grew more than twofold. Christian Dior Couture sales have more than quadrupled since Grazia Chiuri took over in 2016. This week #VogueBusiness is assessing the obstacles as well as presenting the solutions for women working in the industry. Here, Elektra Kotsoni breaks down what to expect from the latest must-read package: https://lnkd.in/e-mP3ser

Who are the young people who now make up some of South Korea’s most committed #luxuryfashion aficionados? The East Asian country now spends close to $17 billion on #luxury goods each year, according to Morgan Stanley — despite having a population smaller than Kentucky. This far surpasses Chinese consumers’ per capita spending — and millennials and #GenZ are responsible for a sizeable chunk of that. As a growing number of #luxury fashion labels look to cement their status in the country, they’ll need to find a way to engage with its high-rolling youth. Here, Megan Tatum breaks down who exactly these young people are: https://lnkd.in/eVBUJAFN #SeoulFashionWeek photographed by Young Chul Kim.

CHAUMET, a 244-year-old brand renowned as Napoleon’s favourite jeweller has a new CEO. His name is Charles Leung, and he is already steering a #strategy refresh. Best known for tiaras, #Chaumet has taken a new tack this summer, designing the medals for the #Olympics. The Maison also presented a high #jewellery collection outside France for the first time this month, in Venice. What to infer from all this? “It means that we are opening our world and we will welcome a larger client base,” says Leung. Milena Lazazzera spoke to the newly appointed CEO as he sets out his vision for the brand: https://lnkd.in/ePyyZbCw

#Rihanna’s Fenty Hair. #Beyoncé’s Cécred. #TraceeEllisRoss’ Pattern Beauty. #TexturedHair category is worth an estimated $10 billion according to The Texture Gap report published by Carra, an AI-driven hair personalisation programme. But it took #celebrities entering the sector to show how much-untapped opportunity lies in the market. “Celebrity-founded brands have contributed to a rush of innovation and formulation in the textured hair space,” says Suzanne Scott, global associate beauty director at Seen Works. But will the investment last? Nateisha Scott finds out: https://lnkd.in/ey6NxeFG