In Zacatecas, where my family originated, chiles like árbol, guajillo, and ancho are indispensable in traditional staples, including pipian, enchiladas, moles, tamales, caldos and more. But chiles are much more than a food: They are an energetic force that keeps our community intertwined as we prepare meals together, generation after generation. Some of my oldest memories are helping the women in my family clean chiles for a big meal. It’s basically a rite of passage for a young member of the family to learn how to prepare the dozens upon dozens of dried chiles that are needed for a large-batch recipe that would feed all of the relatives. Learning to remove the stem, clean out the seeds, and rinse the chiles while all the tias remind you to not touch your eyes is a life lesson I carry with me to this day.
Many of my favorite dishes start with a base of dried chiles that are placed over a dry, hot comal or pan and fried in a little oil to bloom the flavors, which beautifully balance spiciness and nuttiness. Then the chiles are rehydrated in water or broth and blended into a paste with their rehydrating liquid. It’s such a simple process, but it’s one my ancestors have been using for generations—it creates some of the most nostalgic flavors and scents in my kitchen. This base is the foundation; these layers of flavors can continue on to build so many different dishes. I love prepping large batches of this chile base to use throughout the week or freeze in small containers that I can drop into a weeknight caldo. Having a stash like this is an ideal way to start the new year.
Ready to join me? In the recipes that follow, you’ll make a flavorful chile base that can be used in two different plant-based meals. It easily becomes a rich enchilada sauce that smothers creamy garlic mashed potato–stuffed tortillas, or you can double the base, and drop what’s left post-enchiladas into a deeply savory meatless take on menudo, with a smoky chile-based broth, enriched with hominy and packed with frilly mushrooms.
Honestly, I’d probably make even more, since it’s perfect seasoning for tamal fillings, it’s great rubbed on king oyster mushrooms before grilling or roasting, and I love adding it to charred tomatoes to make a quick (but so flavorful) salsa roja. Having this chile starter around can make busy weeknights easier—and so much more delicious.
Looking for more meatless recipes? Check out our Vegan Comfort Food Meal Plan and our Vegetarian Comfort Food Meal Plan.
