I've visited the Greek island of Santorini twice — and if you think it's just a tourist trap, you're going to all the wrong places
This story is available exclusively to Business Insider
subscribers.
Become an Insider
and start reading now.
Have an account? .
- I visited Santorini in both 2012 and 2019, and had completely different experiences each time.
- My second trip made me realize that people who think the Greek island has been spoiled by its millions of annual visitors are simply going to all the wrong places.
- Instead of staying in the capital of Fira or the Instagrammable Oia, I opted for Imerovigli, which is in between both and much more relaxed.
- The area had plenty of great, affordable restaurants and bars, and the view at my hotel was so incredible that some days I didn't even leave — particularly during sunset.
- While the main towns are worth a short visit, the lesser-known parts of the island, like Imerovigli and the traditional town of Pyrgos, are where you'll discover its true charm.
- Visit Insider's homepage for more stories.
Advertisement
Firstly, let's get one thing out of the way — Santorini is a bit of a nightmare to get to. The first time I visited in 2012, I arrived by a violently rocky ferry, and immediately puked into a nearby garbage can along with dozens of others in the hordes that arrived with me.
This time, I made the choice to fly to the island, which was far less vomit-inducing, though the tiny airport (and finding our transfer outside) was admittedly chaotic.
Advertisement
Secondly, there's no denying the island attracts a ton of tourists — it received more than two million in 2018.
Source: GTP
However, the beauty of the island is unlike anything else I've ever seen — and it makes it 100% worth it, especially if you know where to go.
Advertisement
The first time I visited, I stayed close to the busy modern capital of Fira ...
... but this time, I decided to set up camp in Imerovigli, which lies half way between Fira and the Instagrammable Oia. The experience was completely different, and far more chilled out.
Advertisement
While some hotels in Fira and Oia (known for its sunsets) are completely packed each day, Thea Apartments was quiet all the time, with just a few people eating breakfast on their private terraces each morning — with this view as their backdrop.
Breakfast was one of my favorite parts of the day, and it was included in the €230 ($260)-a-night cost of the hotel (which despite sounding pricey, was cheaper than what you'd find in Oia or Fira).
Advertisement
Some days, I didn't even leave the hotel, so it was worth every penny. There were plenty of scenic reading spots ...
... including the plunge pool, where I was often the sole bather.
Advertisement
Imerovigli itself is home to some great restaurants and bars, including Avocado, where I ate some life-changing octopus ...
... and Confetti Dessert Boutique, which served some of the most incredible ice cream I've ever had.
Advertisement
There's a walking path which takes you both to Fira in one direction, and Oia in the other (as long as you're not afraid of steps). I loved the views on the way to Fira, though wasn't particularly fussed about making it to the town itself, which we only did once (because of a restaurant).
There were plenty of spots to stop off for a drink along the path ...
Advertisement
... as well as some great places to eat, such as the traditional To Briki in Firostefani. Prices were also more reasonable than a lot of what you'll find right in the capital — this incredible Greek Salad cost around €10 ($11).
I felt far more relaxed than I had the first time around.
Advertisement
One thing I did repeat from my first trip, however, was a trip around the island on a yacht, which is the best way to see it in all of its glory.
The yacht stops at beaches, and anchors in plenty of places where you can take a dip ...
Advertisement
... including the hot springs at the volcanic island of Palia Kameni.
For €130 ($144) a person, the five-hour trip included unlimited drinks and a delicious Greek BBQ lunch — and there were only a few other people on board. People often complain about Santorini being expensive, but it felt like pretty good value.
Advertisement
My white bathing suit didn't survive the sulfur of the hot springs, but it was completely worth it.
There are plenty of free things to do, too. In Imerovigli, Skaros Rock makes for the perfect hike (though I recommend doing it as early in the day as possible, before it gets too hot).
Advertisement
The view from the top is incredible — and so quiet. When we hiked it around 10 a.m., there were only a handful of other people along the path.
On the other side of the rock, we found what looked like an abandoned church, and it made for a peaceful photo (and rest) spot.
Advertisement
One day, we decided to take the bus to Oia, fully prepared that it would be busy, but wanting to take it in just once.
The town is super quaint, with lots of winding streets, shops, and restaurants ...
Advertisement
... but tourists pack it full, particularly at sunset (it's the closest spot to the sun on the whole island). While it's certainly not the place to go if you hate crowds, it's pretty cool to hear everyone cheering when the sun finally disappears beyond the horizon.
It also means there are plenty of people around to take your picture.
Advertisement
With plenty of research, though, you can still find quiet spots in Oia, such as the Oia Vineyart wine bar and restaurant, where we were the only people. Despite its color, local Greek wine is truly amazing.
There are also some restaurants worth traveling to Oia for, such as the slightly hidden away Roka, where you go for the food — not the sunset.
Advertisement
If sleepy, traditional towns are more your thing, you can also take the bus to Pyrgos, towards the opposite end of the island, for your fill of blue and white.
The streets were mostly empty ...
Advertisement
... with the exception of a few locals.
This was the view from the restaurant where we ate lunch — and every table around us was empty.
Advertisement
Near Pyrgos is the Santo Wines winery, which, despite being full of tourists and home to a wedding when we visited, offered one of the most fantastic views (and wines) of the trip.
However, we ultimately decided our favorite view was of the sunset from our hotel — the owner even brought us wine and baklava as we sat watching it almost every evening. One night we even skipped going out for dinner and ordered pizza.
Advertisement
Whether it was from the bar next door ...
Advertisement
... or just from our balcony, the sight was truly breathtaking — and incredibly peaceful, like most of the trip.
Having now traveled to Santorini twice, staying in different parts of the island and doing different things each time, I can see how tourists who only visit Fira and Oia would think the island has been completely spoiled by its many visitors.
However, if you know where to go, the experience is completely different.
While the main towns are still worth a short visit, the lesser-known parts of the island, like Imerovigli and Pyrgos, are where you'll discover its true charm — and they're the reason why I know I'll be back again one day.
Read more:
More...
Advertisement