Anantara The Marker review: ‘This Dublin five-star could be a generic stay, but it oozes local detail’

I didn’t. But I do now, thanks to a new emphasis on “authentic luxury” ushered in along with a multi-million euro revamp by global brand Anantara. I’m also surprised by a bar of Co Wexford’s Bean and Goose chocolate by my bed, boxty on the breakfast menu and an ‘Irish Wine Geese’ section on the wine list. It’s early days, but the blend of bold architecture and local storytelling in a 187-bed, international-looking layover feels fresh to me.

“It’s not cookie-cutter, as the Americans say,” Guest Relations Manager Derek Brennan tells me. “It’s not bling; it’s what makes us feel well and good and looked after. It’s genuine.”

The rating 7.8/10

Arrival & location

Set next to the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre in Grand Canal Dock, Anantara The Marker is super-handy for shows, if a good 20-minute walk from O’Connell Bridge. I arrive by taxi at its small set-down area — once the doorman spots a guest emerging, he’s over at rapid clip to take my bag.

Stepping through a revolving door as wide as my house, Dublin’s largest hotel lobby reveals itself. Its long, creamy, cave-like shape remains, but there are changes — colourful new carpets, curated shelves and wood partitions create clearer bar, restaurant and reception zones. The open-plan design by Aires Mateus and MDO architects hasn’t been foostered with too much, but it does feel like a slightly busier space, and takes me a minute to figure out.

At check-in, my dinner and spa bookings aren’t on the system, but they’re located soon enough. Around me are a mix of US families, Italian golfers, couples and business travellers; celebs have included the All Blacks and Garth Brooks. Manager Michael Davern (formerly of the K Club) is giving restaurant tips nearby; a nice touch. 7.5/10

Service & style

Where the Merrion, Westbury and Shelbourne play to traditional luxury or mid-century style, The Marker leans into its bold architecture. But there’s substance as well as style. ‘Life is a journey’ is Anantara’s tagline, and packages include activities like docklands walks and sea swimming. Staff take an extra beat, not just saying hello, but weighing up little ways to add to your stay — offering a carton of water as I leave, or walking me to the rooftop bar.

A cucumber and elderflower martini (€15.50) with a 360-degree view up there is a slam-dunk, but weather will define your experience. The decade-old rooftop is showing its limits, from ageing furniture to a cramped indoor space. Putting an upgrade on the to-do list could catapult it ahead of competitors like Sophie’s and Ryleigh’s.

Elsewhere, a charcoal stone-clad leisure area is dark and moody (so much so I can’t see the sauna timer), but it looks great, with a 23m pool, spotless changing rooms even when busy, and I enjoy a nicely paced, responsive Thai Qi Flow massage (€140; 60 mins) and lovely service in the spa. 8/10

The rooms

Corridors are long and dark, but once a comparison is drawn for me with Newgrange, it adds drama. Unusually, bedroom doors are set at an angle (which must have been a joy to carpet). Corner junior suites and ‘premium grand canal view’ are the tastiest, but naturally priced as such.

Refurbed by Anantara, rooms feel sleek and contemporary, with their distinct indigo carpets, dark textured wallpapers, sunken TV panels and classy bits of brass. Beside that Bean and Goose bar is a note linking Irish and Thai traditions of hospitality (Anantara began in Thailand); a Foxford throw, luxe robes, brilliant bed, black marble bathroom and pillow menu (including one filled with organic buckwheat hulls... a new one on me) lay on the luxury.

However, there is no Netflix or streaming, I notice several scuffs on furniture, and three sepia-tinted coastal photos lack labels and feel generic — a strange lapse in design and storytelling. Single-use Voya toiletries are being replaced by larger bottles, I’m told. 7.5/10

Food & drink

“I can really get a feel for the room,” says chef Gareth Mullins, visibly light of foot and revelling in the open kitchen and fresh start at Forbes Street. Local ingredients like spuds, seafood, lamb and strawberries are celebrated not just on his menus, but placards brought to tables; John Stone steaks age in the room; even its blingy caviar (€50 for a 10g tub) comes with Ballymakenny potato blinis.

There’s a clear brief to develop a destination dining room here — no easy task for a workhorse hotel space. But a smart flip of the breakfast island helps — a morning buffet later becomes a staging area for chefs to prep, staff to cut bread or pour wine, and ingredients to be put on display.

The room can feel a bit like a swanky airport lounge, but I’m a fan of the architecture, colour pops and window seats (especially in the morning). Prices are competitive (steaks with two sides from €34; a roasted aubergine main is €23), and service lovely from a young team who are happy to recommend wine parings and discuss meat cuts. 8/10

The bottom line

What could be a generic, globalised stay oozes local detail, and savvy travellers will sniff out rates a notch below Dublin’s best-known five-stars. Compared to the 200-year-old Shelbourne, 40-year-old Westbury or 25-year-old Merrion, Anantara The Marker is a mere pup. But if this first step on its new journey is a sign of things to come, a place in that pantheon could very well await.

Insider tips

The pre-theatre (5-7pm) menu at Forbes Street is €45pp for three courses — a bargain these days for fine dining.

You can take tours of Windmill Lane Studios, a five-minute walk away.windmilllanerecording.com (€22/€15)

Rates

B&B from €280. An offer bundling B&B, dinner and a welcome drink for two is available from €490 for two by phone or email. Pól was a guest of the hotel. anantara.com