Winning wines: Top picks from this year’s Irish Wine Show Star Awards

My wine of the week is not one of the top two winners of the Irish Star Wine Awards, though they feature here too, and are the better wines in terms of complexity and balance. For me, though, the Santa Rita stands out because, at almost half the price, it offers a rare and affordable opportunity to enjoy the nuances that age brings to the Semillon grape. A star of Bordeaux whites, where it is often blended with Sauvignon Blanc, and of single-varietal expressions in Australia’s Hunter Valley, Semillon is all bright and lemony when young. Give it a bit of time, though, even just in a bottle, and it develops the kind of nutty, toasty notes that normally signal oak ageing.

I’m reliably told that the folks at Santa Rita discovered some old stock of various wines knocking about that had been accidentally overlooked, and they decided to treat consumers to these at a particularly nice price. The Semillon was named Gold Star winner in the New World White Under €12 category, while their Carmen Premier 1850 Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 (also from Colchagua Valley in Chile) picked up the New World Red Under €12 Gold Star for its earthy, leathery, dark fruit character. Both are worth stocking up on and would make great house wines to serve with food at a casual party.

The two top wines deserve their accolades, especially as each represents a somewhat underrated grape or region. Ribera del Duero is a high-altitude region where the extreme climate is characterised by hardy locals as “nine months of winter and three months of hell”. Tempranillo thrives there, producing wines with concentration balanced by structure and freshness. This year’s Wine of the Year is a great introduction. The White Wine of the Year makes a strong argument for German Riesling, produced in a dry (‘trocken’) style with some saline complexity.

I’ve also included a workhorse Rioja that makes a regular appearance in these awards, and an oft-overlooked but very decent Champagne that Marilyn Monroe claimed as her favourite morning tipple.

Wine of the week

Santa Rita Estate Reserve Semillon 2017 Colchagua, Chile 13pc, €12

This Gold Star winner of the New World White Under €12 category offers rare development and complexity for its price, with aromas of ripe melon, roast pear tart and honey-nut crunch carrying through to the generous, buttery and slightly perfumed palate. Pair with creamy dishes like a simple pasta alfredo or white meats in creamy sauces, or try with creamy cheeses. NOffLA members nationwide including O’Donovans, Molloy’s, Carry Out, Gibney’s, McHugh’s, Redmonds, The Vintry, The Coach House, Deveney’s, Blackrock Cellar, Jus de Vine

Rioja Vega Semi Crianza 2022 Rioja, Spain, 14pc, €12

Last year, Rioja Vega Crianza was Wine of the Year; this year, its Semi Crianza (oak aged for just nine months rather than 12) won Gold for Old World Red Under €12. Fresh, fruity and versatile enough for cold cuts through to burgers, pizza or pasta. NOffLA members nationwide, O’Donovans, Molloy’s, Carry Out, Gibney’s, McHugh’s, Redmonds, The Vintry, Deveney’s, Blackrock Cellar, Jus de Vine

Portia Crianza Tempranillo 2019 Ribera del Duero, Spain, 15pc, €20

This Wine of the Year showcases Ribera del Duero’s take on Tempranillo: complex and rich yet elegantly structured, with dark brooding fruit, leather and spice, but food-friendly freshness too. Go big — slow-cooked or roasted flavours. NOffLA members, O’Donovans, Molloy’s, Carry Out, Gibney’s, McHugh’s, Redmonds, The Vintry, The Coach House, Deveney’s, Blackrock Cellar, Jus de Vine

Gabel Riesling Trocken Organic 2022 Pfalz, Germany, 11.5pc, €20

This White Wine of the Year is vibrant, juicy and complex, with aromas of salted lemon, peach and stony minerality carrying through to the silky yet dry palate, with racy, saline acidity that keeps you coming back for more. Try with sour Thai dishes. NOffLA members nationwide, O’Donovans, Molloy’s, Carry Out, Gibney’s, McHugh’s, Redmonds, The Vintry, Deveney’s, Blackrock Cellar, Jus de Vine

Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Brut NV Champagne, France, 12pc, €50-€60

A rich and complex Pinot-led blend from 100 crus, with 20pc reserve wines and two years’ lees-ageing. Warm and voluptuous with notes of lightly toasted macadamia, lemon curd and baked apple. NOffLA members, O’Donovans, Molloy’s, Carry Out, Gibney’s, McHugh’s, Redmonds, The Vintry, The Coach House, Deveney’s, Blackrock Cellar, Jus de Vine, theallotment.ie, whelehanswines.ie