Oh my Godello! Albarino’s charming pals are worth a try

On the Galician team, I’ve showcased Godello, a wonderfully food-friendly grape worth getting to know. It has the freshness and minerality, charm and drinkability of Albarino, typically less fruit-forward but often with more volume and density that can be fleshed out by its natural affinity with barrel fermentation and ageing. A recent tasting of Godello from Bodegas Valdesil of Vilamartín de Valdeorras, in one of the best regions for this native Galician grape, reminded me of how versatile and delicious it can be.

As my wine of the week, I’ve chosen a lees-aged introduction to their range of five available in Ireland, or splash out on their creamy Pezas da Portela Godello (€53, Jus de Vine), a tribute to Portela village’s patchwork of 11 ‘pezas’ (small historic vineyards), aged for six months in oak. Look on restaurant wine lists for Valdesil’s extraordinary barrel-fermented O Chao, a wine that can stand proud beside top Burgundies and commands a price to match.

Any Godello from Rafael Palacios will be worth the spend, whether it’s the age-worthy, Puligny-like As Sortes Godello (€66.50, 64 Wine) or its more accessibly priced sibling, the gastronomic Louro do Bolo, which I previously featured as my wine of the week (€26.50-€29, independents).

Ely Wine Store has an interesting selection from Adega Algueira in Ribeira Sacra, including their barrel-fermented Escalada Godello (€48) and Cortezada blend of Godello with Albarino and Treixadura (€37). Fans of Treixadura should hunt out the warm and textured Dominio do Bibei Lalume White Ribeiro 2020 (€36.95, independents including Manning’s Emporium and Morton’s) for its floral, apricot and spice notes.

For a very affordable introduction to Godello, Dunnes Stores still carries the previously featured ripe, broad yet zesty Paloma de Plata Godello (€14). Today’s real steal, however, is a Portuguese Alvarinho that is a guest wine in SuperValu’s annual Spanish and Portuguese wine sale that continues until March 20. I’ve also thrown in a Portuguese blend of Alvarinho and Loureiro, a grape grown in the Vinho Verde DO and up in Galicia in DOs such as Ribeiro, and which often brings a distinctive herbal character.

Wines of the week

Valdesil Godello Sobre Lias, DO Valdeorras, Galicia, Spain, 13.5pc, €31 From a family-run winery established in 1885, and today applying biodynamic practices to some of Valdeorras’s oldest Godello plantings, with spectacular results. Burgundy lovers should seek out their smoky, supple O Chao (on-trade only), but the lees-aged Valdesil from schist soils is a smart representation of the quality and finesse from their impressive range of terroir-focused Godello. Think soft stone fruits, sweet fennel, citrus blossom and delicate grapefruit zest. The Corkscrew, Jus de Vin

Gargalo Godello, Monterrei DO, Galicia, Spain, 13pc, €17.95 Lipsmacking Godello to stand up to spice or roast white meats, thanks to toasty tropical fruit and a plump creaminess bolstered by four months on the lees, yet with a stony minerality and lively acidity that sings with seafood. Reduced from €20.95 until March 10, so snap up a few bottles now. O’Briens Wine; obrienswine.ie

A Coroa Godello 2022, Valdeorras DO, Galicia, Spain, 13.5pc, €20.19 Super-fresh and mineral-driven with great concentration and power, thanks to slate soils, this satisfying Godello trips a pretty line between rich and bright, with warm lemon curd, toasty and mineral aromas and a profile that starts very lively on the palate and finishes silky and glycerol. Think roast fish on the bone. winespark.com

Lolo Loureiro-Alvarinho 2022, Vinho Verde DO, Portugal, 12pc, €18 Paco & Lola winery’s Lolo Albarino was named Ireland’s White Wine of the Year 2023; here they head to the Minho region. Plump yet saline with wild oregano and balsam notes. Go salt cod or fish ’n’ chips. Ardkeen (Waterford), Cove Stores (Tramore), Daly’s (Roscommon), Jayne’s (Ennis), Foley’s (Sligo), some Carry Outs, Redmonds, Gibney’s, Nolan’s, McHugh’s, Cappagh Stores, Country Crest Farm Shop

Adega de Moncao AM Alvarinho 2022, Vinho Verde DO, Portugal, 13.5pc, €10 Featuring in SuperValu’s annual Spanish and Portuguese wine sale until March 20, this juicy Alvarinho from the river-dominated subregion of Moncao e Moncago captures northern Portuguese sunshine with a ripeness balanced by Atlantic maritime freshness. Think tomato-based stews or seafood risotto. SuperValu