The rising red star of Spain’s sunny south-east

It’s in this sunny south-east corner of Spain, in regions like Jumilla, Yecla, Valencia and Alicante, that Monastrell made its comeback after the late 19th-century phylloxera plague devastated its vines elsewhere. A dark and thick-skinned, heat-loving, late-ripening grape that needs a steady source of water, Monastrell does well in calcareous soils close to the Mediterranean coast, where it gets the heat it needs to ripen fully but without getting too sweet and jammy.

The grape spread from south-east Spain up along the Mediterranean through Catalunya (where it picked up the name Mataro that is still used today in Australia, California and South Africa) and on through France’s Rousillon and Provence as far east as southern Rhone, where it’s called Mourvedre. It’s important in southern Rhone blends and their copy-cat styles, such as the GSM blend (Grenache-Shiraz-Mataro) that became all the rage in Southern Australia in recent decades.

While valued elsewhere as a blending partner that brings tannic structure and ripe forest fruits, in south-east Spain, Monastrell often stars in single-varietal wines. These can be wildly different: from the Blanc de Noirs Monastrell white wine that Aldi sometimes stocks to the brooding La Orphica Monastrell Appassimento (€18, O’Briens, often on promotion), made with semi-dried grapes. In between, you’ll find everything from lean, amphora-aged rosé Monastrell (El Rosado de Padilla from Casa Balaguer in Alicante, €28.50 in Sheridan’s and independents) to rustic styles like today’s Monastrell Los Frailes, from one of Spain’s first certified organic wineries which has been family-owned since 1771.

Today’s wine of the week is from Pepe Mendoza, one of the most interesting winemakers in south-east Spain, making expressive wines from high altitude, ancient terraced vineyards surrounded by garrigue and woodlands. Look out too for his more traditional expressions from his father’s winery, Bodega Enrique Mendoza, including the savoury and smoky La Tremenda (€19.95, independents).

Wines of the week

Pepe Mendoza Tinto Paisaje Mediterraneo 2021, DO Alicante, Spain, 14pc, €23-€25 Juicy yet clean, pure and precise, structured and moreish with brightness and delicate aromas of dried flowers, black cherry, balsamic and a dusting of cinnamon — there’s a lot to love in this blend of Monastrell with Giro (25pc) and Alicante Bouschet (5pc). Perhaps it’s the Giro, with echoes of Gamay and Nebbiolo, that gives such lovely lift. Pair with roast game or squid in a savoury tomato sauce, and consider serving slightly chilled. Baggot St Wines, Blackrock Cellar, Deveneys, D-Six, Sweeney’s D3, McHugh’s, Mitchell & Son; mitchellandson.com

Monastrell Los Frailes, DO Valencia, Spain, 13pc, €17.95 Aged in ancient concrete tanks, with juicy cherry, sour mulberry and dried flower aromas, and a wildness suggestive of saddles and farmyards that carries through onto the palate in a rustic style that pairs well with rabbit ragu and earthy tomato-based dishes. Slemons of Furbo, Cass & Co, Ventry Post Office, Cornrue Bakery, Mitchell & Son, Sheridan’s; sheridanscheesemongers.com

Melea Bush Vine Monastrell 2022, DO Jumilla, 14pc, €11.99 Excellent-value organic Monastrell that leans into the lush dark fruits that this grape offers (black cherry, mulberry and prune with warm pepper notes). Full-bodied and supple with soft tannins but decent acidity bringing structure; perfect with stews. Ardkeen, Daly’s of Boyle, Clybaun Stores, Country Crest Farm Shop, No 21 Ballinacurra, Cove Stores, selected Carryout, Shiels Malahide

Altos de Luzon, DO Jumilla, Spain, 2020, 14.5pc, €15.95 (from €20.45 for February) A Monastrell for Malbec fans: bold and ballsy, from high-altitude vineyards which give an intensity further fanned by 12 months in American and French oak. Meaty, fruit-forward with sweet spiced notes of vanilla, cocoa and coffee, but good freshness to boot, this is a match for burgers. O’Briens Wines; obrienswine.ie

Altos de la Hoya Monastrell 2021, DO Jumilla, 14.5pc, €15 From very high-altitude vineyards (825m) of old ungrafted vines, this is big and bold but layered and structured with punchy black fruits and good length for its price. Pair with rich dishes like short rib ragu, or for meaty roasts, step up with its single-plot big brother, the rich and dense Umbria de la Hoya (€21.25). Wines Direct; winesdirect.ie