Back to the future: red grape varieties with ancient resilience

There was a time when local varieties were being pulled up all around the world and replaced by internationally recognised varieties with their well-established consumer market. It turns out, though, that there are problems with this approach, which promotes monocultures over biodiversity and globalised homogeneity over localised sense of place. It also leaves vines vulnerable to weather events that ancient varieties evolved to endure. As once-periodic spikes in temperature and spells of drought become more frequent, many proactive wineries are turning back to those ancient local grapes with their in-built resilience.

This thinking now drives an ambitious revival of ancestral varieties by Catalunya’s Familia Torres winery. After the late 19th century phylloxera plague decimated vines across Europe, many ancient varieties were not replanted. Some were lost; some dwindled towards extinction. Others succumbed to a lack of commercial demand.

In the 1980s, fourth-generation winemaker Miguel A Torres set out to rescue obscure local vines. Though his initial aim was to preserve his ancestors’ heritage of ancient vines and winemaking traditions, that project’s potential as a climate-adaptation tool emerged over the decades. Of 50 ancient varieties trialed and tested to date, six have proven extremely resistant to drought and high temperatures while also offering promising winemaking characteristics. Late-ripening varieties are especially useful, allowing winemakers to restrain alcohol levels and preserve freshness.

Today’s wine of the week features one such success, Moneu. Also here are several more ancient and late-ripening grapes enjoying increasing appreciation, including Refosco dal Penduncolo Rosso. I recently recommended Lidl’s Refosco (on shelves through November, €9.99), while Un’Ombra Refosco Bagnum (Winelab.ie, €25, 1.5 litres) makes a great party food pairing. And I’ve thrown in a wild card exception of Tannat: an unsung grape variety that had to travel around the world from Europe to Uruguay to find its fit of perfect terroir. ​

Wine of the week

Torres Clos Ancestral Red 2020

Penedès, Spain, 14pc, €21.95

A medium-bodied blend of 40pc Moneu (one of six climate resilient ancestral grapes revived by Familia Torres) together with Tempranillo and Garnacha, with fresh and fruity character running from juicy plum and blackberries to tangy cherry and cranberry, finishing smooth with hints of creamy nutty cacao. A versatile food pairing for creamy poultry, pasta or pizza. Look too for Jean Leon Forcada, an aromatic, super-fresh white wine starring the revived, drought-resistant Forcada. Bradleys, Pinto Wines, Redmonds, Jus De Vin, Number 21, bradleysofflicence.ie

Summer Wolff ‘GioGio’ Freisa 2022

Piedmont, Italy, 13.5pc, €26-€27

Pretty and pure with crushed strawberry notes and finely etched grip, featuring late-ripening Freisa grapes from 30 year old vines grown in clay, marl and limestone in Monferrato, where Summer Wolff now makes her own natural wines at her Italian husband Fabrizio Iuli’s organic winery. Sheridans, MacCurtain Street Cellar, Strandfield, Eleven Deli, Lennox Street Grocer

Perusini Refosco dal Penduncolo Rosso 2020

Collio, Italy, 13pc, €24.50

Elegant with bright sour cherries and balsamic nuance, this charming showcase of Friuli’s ancient Refosco variety (beloved of Roman author Pliny the Elder) is grown next to Italy’s north-eastern border with Slovenia. Think aperitif, or pair with rich roast birds or fattier meats.

James Nicholson Wine Merchant, Crossgar, jnwine.com

Ca’n Verdura Supernova Negre ‘Mantenegro’

Binissalem, Mallorca, Spain, 14.5pc, €30

Fans of Mencia or fresher Garnacha will love this earthy aromatic red with crunchy raspberry, blueberry and sour plum, hints of smoke and wild herbs and bright natural freshness. Pair with smoked or herb-roast fattier meats like duck, lamb or ham. Cafe Rua, Martins, Lilith,The Corkscrew, Redmonds, Drinkstore, drinkstore.ie

Garzón Tannat Reserva 2020

Uruguay, 14.5pc, €24-€25

A big, bold and powerful expression of Tannat, with subtly spiced and herbal red and blue fruits, defined but smooth tannins, distinct minerality and a freshness courtesy of Garzón’s Atlantic influence. A great choice for a wintry feast of roast lamb with chimichurri. SweeneysD3, McHughs, Clontarf Wines, Mitchell & Son, Deveney’s, Blackrock Cellar, dundalkwines.com