Donal Skehan’s simple seafood suppers – crudo three ways, salmon poke bowl and BBQ squid and fennel salad
Cooking at this time of year, whatever the weather, is always inspiring. I’ll take a BBQ with an umbrella over the darker days of winter any time. I feel my cooking comes out of hibernation during these months and there is something incredibly satisfying about grilling al fresco and making quick and simple suppers. I cook a lot of seafood this time of year. Charred Dublin Bay prawns, the first taste of summer’s barbecue mackerel and the speed at which you can pull together a grilled smoky squid salad are all elements that make up the essence of a great summer evening.
A visit to my hometown of Howth and the row of fishmongers is always inspiring when it comes to choosing what’s for dinner. This week I have three simple seafood suppers. I urge you to try crudo this summer, particularly when you can get your hands on the freshest fish. It is an Italian dish with raw fish or shellfish often dressed simply with olive oil, citrus and seasonings. Similar dishes from around the world include ceviche from Peru, marinated in citrus juice; poke from Hawaii, combining diced raw fish with soy sauce and sesame oil; carpaccio di pesce from Italy, with thin slices of fish dressed in olive oil and lemon. Each dish highlights the fresh, delicate flavours of raw fish in unique ways and I have three variations, worth saving to try.
Speaking of crudo, poke from Hawaii is another unique way of highlighting fish at its most fresh, combining diced raw fish with soy sauce and sesame oil. It’s served cold over rice and incredibly satisfying. You will no doubt have seen the rise of poke bowl restaurants which have popped up in the last few years, but making them at home is very simple.
A BBQ squid and fennel salad is particularly easy to make if you get some prepared squid, as it cooks in minutes. Tender squid, char-grilled and smoky, is delicious enjoyed with crisp fennel and a zesty citrus vinaigrette. The combination of textures and flavours makes it a standout dish, ideal for outdoor gatherings.
All the recipes here are simple to recreate and definitely worth banking for the summer evenings ahead.
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Crudo Three Ways
Serves: 4, as side dishes
Time: 1 hour
Ingredients for ceviche sea bass:
Method:
1. Mix together lime juice, red chilli and sugar in a bowl.
2. Finely dice the sea bass and add to the dressing.
3. Allow to sit for a maximum of 10 minutes then serve straight away with coriander leaves, radishes and lime slices.
Ingredients for the Japanese salmon:
Method:
1. Mix the yuzu, ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil and wasabi together in a bowl.
2. Thinly slice the salmon, add to the bowl with the dressing and allow to sit for 5 minutes.
3. Dress with dots of kewpie mayo, spring onions and some sesame seeds.
Ingredients for Scandi-pickled mackerel:
Method:
1. Add the mackerel to a bowl with the onion and fennel.
2. Mix the vinegar, water, sugar, coriander, caraway seeds and a pinch of salt together in a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Allow to cool, then pour over the mackerel, fennel and onions and leave to pickle for 1 hour.
3. Meanwhile, mix together the yoghurt, horseradish, sugar and lemon zest in a small bowl and set aside.
4. Drain the pickling liquid off the mackerel, fennel and onion mix and serve with the yoghurt and dill.
Salmon Poke Bowl
Serves: 4
Time: 25 minutes
Ingredients
Method
1. Rinse the sushi rice really well, changing the water a few times until it no longer runs milky white. Fill a saucepan with 350ml cold salted water and add the rice. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 10 minutes, or according to the packet instructions. Remove from the heat, cover and set aside for 10 minutes, then fluff up with a fork and leave to cool slightly.
2. Use a fork to blend the soy sauce with the mirin, chilli flakes, sesame oil and sugar. Pour over the salmon and let stand for no more than 5 minutes.
3. Divide the just-warm rice between four bowls. Top with the salmon, spring onions and avocado. Scatter with the black and white sesame seeds and serve.
BBQ Squid and Fennel Salad
Serves: 4
Time: 35 minutes
Ingredients
Method
1. Trim and finely slice the fennel, using a mandoline if you have one, then place into a bowl of iced water for 20 minutes.
2. Preheat the barbecue to a high heat.
3. In a pestle and mortar, bash the fennel seeds into a light powder with the lemon zest and a good pinch of salt & pepper. Sprinkle over the squid and drizzle with a little olive oil, then mix well.
4. Drain the fennel, then pat dry and transfer to a serving bowl or platter with the orange segments, cucumber slices and most of the chopped coriander.
5. Place the squid on the hottest part of the BBQ, and grill, turning every 30 seconds or so, or every time it starts to char, curl up and turn from opaque to white — about 2-3 minutes.
6. Add 6 tablespoons of olive oil to a bowl with the lemon juice and whisk to combine. Stir in garlic, chilli and a pinch of salt and pepper.
7. Drizzle this over the grilled squid before serving on top of the fennel and orange salad and sprinkle over the remaining coriander and the micro cress.
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