Kitchari (Khichdi)

A rice and lentil dish, spiked with a tempering of ghee and spices, and sometimes veggies, khichdi (pronounced kheech-dee) has at least a hundred forms on the Indian subcontinent. It is a main course dish that has a risotto-like texture and turmeric stained color. One of the most interesting facts about the word “khichdi” is that it is so well known and loved that it has inspired an old Indian phrase “kya khichdi pak rahi hai?”, translating to “what are you scheming about?” 

In the present, khichdi is many things. It is the epitome of a convalescent meal, usually the first dish one eats after an international trip when the body wants something familiar and easy to digest; it’s a dish that requires no prep; and finally, it’s a dish whose ingredients (lentils and rice) are a mainstay in kitchens across the country.

The History of Khichdi

The Moroccan scholar and explorer Ibn Battuta traveled to the Indian subcontinent in the 14th century and observed that Indians ate khichdi—which he referred to as “kishri” for breakfast everyday. In the 1600s, French traveler Jean-Baptiste Tavernier referred to khichdi as “a peasant’s evening meal.” The Mughals had their own version, and so did the British who colonized the subcontinent thereafter. Thereby making khichdi the one Indian dish that caught the fancy of foreigners throughout history. 

In India, the roots of khichdi go back to mythology and therefore the timeline of its origin is ambiguous. According to historians, a version of khichdi is mentioned in an epic called Mahabharata, the events of which fall between the 9th and 8th centuries BCE. In the story, the five princes, the Pandavas, were fed khichdi by their common consort, Draupadi. 

The Many Faces of Khichdi

India has 28 states and as many cuisines, and khichdi has been adapted to all of them. Take for example the Bengali khichuri which is served to the Gods during the festival of Durga Puja. Uttrakhand’s Gharhwali khichdi has an addition of black sesame seeds. Keema khichdi from the South of India contains minced meat. Khichdi is as varied as it is ubiquitous. 

This khichdi recipe is a notch above the basic version of just lentils and rice, with an add-on of tempered spices and garlic.

Tips for Making Khichdi

• You can pre-cook the rice and split pigeon peas ahead of time and keep them refrigerated for up to three days.
• For the dried red chillies, you can use the small red chillies found at Indian markets (literally labeled “red chillies”) or, in a pinch, chiles de arból. Chiles de arból are spicier than most dried Indian red chillies, but because they are left whole they will not impart too much heat.
• For the chilli powder, use an Indian brand, such as Laxmi (usually labeled “red chilli powder”). Cayenne pepper can be used in a pinch, but because it is hotter, cut the amount in half.
• The ideal texture of a khichdi is soft but not too runny, so adjust water consistency while cooking accordingly. Remember that the khichdi will thicken as it cools, so you want it a little on the runny side before serving.
• The ideal khichdi accompaniment is roasted papadums.