It wasn’t until David Fletcher left his native Stoke-on-Trent that he realised Staffordshire oatcakes are not widely known outside of the area. Unlike the biscuit-like Scottish oatcakes, the version he grew up with is a savoury pancake served with fillings such as bacon and cheese. “Every shop has its own secret recipe,” he says. “The variations must be very slight, but you still get quite fierce opinions about which are the best oatcakes.” Now based in the New Forest, the photographer has spent the past two years documenting oatcake shops. “If this was a French food it would probably have some kind of protected status of origin, but we don’t do that much in England. For me it represents a cultural and culinary heritage.”

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