Ramsay’s Kitchen, the new restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis downtown, poses a conundrum stickier than its toffee pudding. How has the pairing of the world’s most famous chef and St. Louis’ most luxurious hotel resulted in an experience this bloodless? Ramsay’s Kitchen delivers a five-star view at Four Seasons prices with all the flair of the complimentary breakfast at a La Quinta Inn.
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St. Louis Alderwoman Cara Spencer, left, presents Gordon Ramsay with a resolution from the city at the grand opening of Ramsay’s Kitchen at the Four Season Hotel in downtown St. Louis on Friday, June 28, 2024.
Do I need to introduce Ramsay himself? Protegee of legendary British chef Marco Pierre White. Holder of three Michelin stars at his London flagship Restaurant Gordon Ramsay. Prolific, profane television host of “Hell’s Kitchen,” “Kitchen Nightmares” and “MasterChef,” among others.
If you follow upscale dining in St. Louis, you also know the Four Seasons’ eighth-floor dining room and its rooftop deck overlooking downtown, the Mississippi River and the Gateway Arch. This opened with the hotel in 2008 as Cielo Restaurant & Bar, an elegant Italian restaurant that evolved under its successive executive chefs Fabrizio Schenardi and Gian Nicola Colucci into one of the area’s best kitchens.
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The dining room of Ramsay's Kitchen inside the Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis.
In 2018, Cielo gave way to Cinder House, a Brazilian-inspired restaurant from acclaimed St. Louis chef and restaurateur Gerard Craft. Cinder House’s wood-fired fare was appealing from its debut, and the restaurant was gaining momentum before the pandemic with the introduction of the Dia’s Room tasting menu, Craft’s most ambitious project since he closed his all-time-great Niche.
To my surprise, the hotel’s background is as pertinent to Ramsay’s Kitchen as the chef’s biography. Of course, I didn’t expect to see Ramsay stalking the dining room, sprinkling f-bombs like finishing flakes of Maldon sea salt. I did expect a baseline of hospitality from the Four Seasons. Instead, across three visits, service ranged from distracted to brusque. The dining room and bar look much the same as they did as Cielo and Cinder House, but the vibe that could transform local diners into pampered guests for a couple of hours has dissipated.
Maybe the Four Seasons is simply absorbing the restaurant’s energy. Again, I didn’t expect Ramsay’s Kitchen to match the haute cuisine of Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, but if that latter restaurant is the Major Leagues, Ramsay’s Kitchen is single-A ball — the lower tier of single-A, where the marginal prospects toil.
The St. Louis Ramsay’s Kitchen, which opened in April, is the fifth in the chain, following locations in Boston, Las Vegas, Oklahoma and the Chicago suburb of Naperville, Illinois. The menu is similar at each, though with some variations. Boston features a raw bar, for example. St. Louis doesn’t.
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The tuna tartare at Ramsay’s Kitchen.
In general, though, the Ramsay’s Kitchen concept incorporates the same essential flaw as the two other culinary heavy-hitters St. Louis hotels have imported in recent years, the relatively short-lived Grand Tavern by David Burke at the Angad Arts Hotel in Grand Center and Casa Don Alfonso at the Ritz-Carlton, St. Louis in Clayton. Ramsay’s Kitchen isn’t as pretentious as either of those venues — the snootiest note here is the insistence on calling tap water “house water” — but it, too, assumes we in Flyover Country have been eagerly anticipating the arrival of such exotic delicacies as, say, tuna tartare and jumbo-lump crab cakes.
Those are two of the six appetizers on the dinner menu. (Those half-dozen starters also include airy Parker rolls, which you must order in lieu of bread service.) Ribbons of avocado encircle the tuna tartare, though your eye will be drawn to the considerable glob of sour cream on the plate. Either garnish will cushion your palate from the tuna itself, saltier than the ocean from which it was plucked thanks to an overpowered garlic-chili soy sauce.
The crab cake is inviting in its simplicity, a single cake of plump jumbo-lump crab meat atop an herb aioli with a mixed-green salad to the side. The crab cake uses minimal filler. It barely holds together as a cake. Yet once you get past the initial sweetness of the crab, you wait in vain for another flavor. The herbs in the aioli are more subliminal suggestion than seasoning.
For $27 and $30, respectively, you would expect more nuance from the tuna tartare and crab cake, whichever chef’s name is attached to the restaurant. The sticky cauliflower, another appetizer, is more moderately priced at $16. The snappy morsels are compulsively snackable, but the cloyingly sweet “Korean BBQ” glaze shows as much passion for the myriad dimensions of Korean cuisine as a consultant’s PowerPoint deck on the hottest restaurant trends of 2016.
To the list of things I correctly didn’t expect from the new Four Seasons restaurant, I can add “a spectacular failure.” Still, a daring flop would have been preferable to this snoozer of a menu, generic hotel food with a celebrity-chef gloss.
A main course of smoked chicken does taste smoky, though not so smoky to distract me from the overcooked white meat or a dull, lumpy red bean-bacon ragu. The Crispy Skin Salmon yields tender flesh under its crisp-as-advertised skin, but the promised crackle of a lemon vinaigrette and a chimichurri sauce vanished into a mellow cauliflower puree.
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Fish and chips at Ramsay's Kitchen
My dinner companion and I sat up straight when the server delivered the Ramsay’s Kitchen fish and chips, a tremendous plank of fried haddock perched on thick wedges of thrice-cooked potato. The batter’s subtle, but unmistakable sweetness inspired us to share our favorite deep-fried fair foods rather than the fish that batter jacketed. The potatoes, though texturally perfect, lacked salt or any other seasoning.
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The beef Wellington at Ramsay’s Kitchen inside the Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis.
Yes, Ramsay’s Kitchen serves Ramsay’s signature beef Wellington. Yes, if you’re already splurging on dinner here, you might as well order it. The beef inside its golden-brown puff-pastry shell is a gorgeous medium-rare — the kitchen’s mandatory temperature on this dish — and the mushroom duxelles inside the crust and the red-wine demiglace on the plate lend the tender meat a needed swagger. Still, for a $69 main course, I wanted something nicer to accompany the beef Wellington than more unseasoned potatoes (a puree this time) and a few glazed root vegetables.
The beef Wellington is fine. The RK Burger, from the lunch menu, is also fine, two smashed patties larded with American cheese and mayonnaise. For $23, though, you should expect more than fine. And while the expense of a Four Seasons restaurant is a given, the hotel’s reputation demands a restaurant, celebrity chef or not, so transporting that you aren’t compelled to count each line item as you order it.
Fine isn’t the four-letter word associated with Gordon Ramsay. It’s especially damning because this restaurant, more so than Cielo or Cinder House, will likely draw diners to the Four Seasons who would not usually drop a few hundred bucks on dinner.
Here’s another four-letter word you don’t need to bleep: pass.
Celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay attended the ribbon cutting of his new restaurant, Ramsay's Kitchen, for its grand opening at the Four Seasons Hotel in St. Louis on June 28, 2024.
Photos: Celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay attends grand opening of Ramsay's Kitchen at the Four Seasons Hotel
![Gordon Ramsay attends grand opening of Ramsay's Kitchen in St. Louis](https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/f/e0/fe007614-2f2a-59b8-82f8-502e4281682c/667f3a1d218db.image.jpg?resize=150%2C97 150w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/f/e0/fe007614-2f2a-59b8-82f8-502e4281682c/667f3a1d218db.image.jpg?resize=200%2C130 200w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/f/e0/fe007614-2f2a-59b8-82f8-502e4281682c/667f3a1d218db.image.jpg?resize=225%2C146 225w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/f/e0/fe007614-2f2a-59b8-82f8-502e4281682c/667f3a1d218db.image.jpg?resize=300%2C195 300w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/f/e0/fe007614-2f2a-59b8-82f8-502e4281682c/667f3a1d218db.image.jpg?resize=400%2C260 400w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/f/e0/fe007614-2f2a-59b8-82f8-502e4281682c/667f3a1d218db.image.jpg?resize=540%2C351 540w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/f/e0/fe007614-2f2a-59b8-82f8-502e4281682c/667f3a1d218db.image.jpg?resize=640%2C415 640w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/f/e0/fe007614-2f2a-59b8-82f8-502e4281682c/667f3a1d218db.image.jpg?resize=750%2C487 750w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/f/e0/fe007614-2f2a-59b8-82f8-502e4281682c/667f3a1d218db.image.jpg?resize=990%2C643 990w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/f/e0/fe007614-2f2a-59b8-82f8-502e4281682c/667f3a1d218db.image.jpg?resize=1035%2C672 1035w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/f/e0/fe007614-2f2a-59b8-82f8-502e4281682c/667f3a1d218db.image.jpg?resize=1200%2C779 1200w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/f/e0/fe007614-2f2a-59b8-82f8-502e4281682c/667f3a1d218db.image.jpg?resize=1333%2C865 1333w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/f/e0/fe007614-2f2a-59b8-82f8-502e4281682c/667f3a1d218db.image.jpg?resize=1476%2C958 1476w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/f/e0/fe007614-2f2a-59b8-82f8-502e4281682c/667f3a1d218db.image.jpg?resize=1787%2C1160 2008w)
Gordon Ramsay, center, cuts the ribbon with Alper Oztok, general manager of the Four Seasons Hotel, right, and Brian Marsh, senior vice president and general manager of the Horseshoe casino, at the grand opening of Ramsay's Kitchen at the Four Seasons Hotel in downtown St. Louis on Friday, June 28, 2024.
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Gordon Ramsay arrives at the grand opening of Ramsay's Kitchen at the Four Seasons Hotel in downtown St. Louis on Friday, June 28, 2024.
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Gordon Ramsay listens to remarks during the grand opening of Ramsay's Kitchen at the Four Seasons Hotel in downtown St. Louis on Friday, June 28, 2024.
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Gordon Ramsay, center, talks with attendees of the grand opening of Ramsay's Kitchen at the Four Seasons Hotel in downtown St. Louis on Friday, June 28, 2024.
![Gordon Ramsay attends grand opening of Ramsay's Kitchen in St. Louis](https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/0/4c/04c4d46d-b5a8-54c6-8bc5-2a09a6609519/667f3a30769e3.image.jpg?resize=150%2C99 150w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/0/4c/04c4d46d-b5a8-54c6-8bc5-2a09a6609519/667f3a30769e3.image.jpg?resize=200%2C132 200w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/0/4c/04c4d46d-b5a8-54c6-8bc5-2a09a6609519/667f3a30769e3.image.jpg?resize=225%2C148 225w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/0/4c/04c4d46d-b5a8-54c6-8bc5-2a09a6609519/667f3a30769e3.image.jpg?resize=300%2C198 300w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/0/4c/04c4d46d-b5a8-54c6-8bc5-2a09a6609519/667f3a30769e3.image.jpg?resize=400%2C264 400w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/0/4c/04c4d46d-b5a8-54c6-8bc5-2a09a6609519/667f3a30769e3.image.jpg?resize=540%2C356 540w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/0/4c/04c4d46d-b5a8-54c6-8bc5-2a09a6609519/667f3a30769e3.image.jpg?resize=640%2C422 640w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/0/4c/04c4d46d-b5a8-54c6-8bc5-2a09a6609519/667f3a30769e3.image.jpg?resize=750%2C495 750w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/0/4c/04c4d46d-b5a8-54c6-8bc5-2a09a6609519/667f3a30769e3.image.jpg?resize=990%2C653 990w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/0/4c/04c4d46d-b5a8-54c6-8bc5-2a09a6609519/667f3a30769e3.image.jpg?resize=1035%2C682 1035w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/0/4c/04c4d46d-b5a8-54c6-8bc5-2a09a6609519/667f3a30769e3.image.jpg?resize=1200%2C791 1200w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/0/4c/04c4d46d-b5a8-54c6-8bc5-2a09a6609519/667f3a30769e3.image.jpg?resize=1333%2C879 1333w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/0/4c/04c4d46d-b5a8-54c6-8bc5-2a09a6609519/667f3a30769e3.image.jpg?resize=1476%2C973 1476w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/0/4c/04c4d46d-b5a8-54c6-8bc5-2a09a6609519/667f3a30769e3.image.jpg?resize=1773%2C1169 2008w)
The staff of Ramsay's Kitchen walks through the restaurant during its grand opening at the Four Seasons Hotel in downtown St. Louis on Friday, June 28, 2024. Gordon Ramsay complimented the view of the arch during the ribbon cutting.
![Gordon Ramsay attends grand opening of Ramsay's Kitchen in St. Louis](https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/1/6e/16efba2d-1c28-5c9c-ac11-04bb9a199816/667f3a2c9312b.image.jpg?resize=150%2C209 150w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/1/6e/16efba2d-1c28-5c9c-ac11-04bb9a199816/667f3a2c9312b.image.jpg?resize=200%2C279 200w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/1/6e/16efba2d-1c28-5c9c-ac11-04bb9a199816/667f3a2c9312b.image.jpg?resize=225%2C314 225w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/1/6e/16efba2d-1c28-5c9c-ac11-04bb9a199816/667f3a2c9312b.image.jpg?resize=300%2C418 300w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/1/6e/16efba2d-1c28-5c9c-ac11-04bb9a199816/667f3a2c9312b.image.jpg?resize=400%2C558 400w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/1/6e/16efba2d-1c28-5c9c-ac11-04bb9a199816/667f3a2c9312b.image.jpg?resize=540%2C753 540w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/1/6e/16efba2d-1c28-5c9c-ac11-04bb9a199816/667f3a2c9312b.image.jpg?resize=640%2C893 640w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/1/6e/16efba2d-1c28-5c9c-ac11-04bb9a199816/667f3a2c9312b.image.jpg?resize=750%2C1046 750w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/1/6e/16efba2d-1c28-5c9c-ac11-04bb9a199816/667f3a2c9312b.image.jpg?resize=990%2C1381 990w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/1/6e/16efba2d-1c28-5c9c-ac11-04bb9a199816/667f3a2c9312b.image.jpg?resize=1035%2C1443 1035w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/1/6e/16efba2d-1c28-5c9c-ac11-04bb9a199816/667f3a2c9312b.image.jpg?resize=1200%2C1674 1200w, https://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/stltoday.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/1/6e/16efba2d-1c28-5c9c-ac11-04bb9a199816/667f3a2c9312b.image.jpg?resize=1219%2C1700 1333w)
Gordon Ramsay talks with attendees of the grand opening of Ramsay's Kitchen at the Four Seasons Hotel in downtown St. Louis on Friday, June 28, 2024.