Getting to Know Your Hair Type: How to Care For Every Type of Hair

How well do you know your hair? Sure, you and your mane have been together forever. But knowing your hair type and how to care for it can be the difference between great hair days and mediocre ones. Not to mention, the cost of hair care products isn't exactly cheap. So, you want to make sure you understand your hair type to care for it properly.

No matter your hair type, it's beautiful and deserves to be treated right. "When you understand your hair type, shape, and density especially, you can find ways to love your hair and style it in a way that enhances it, instead of trying to change it," says Samantha Denis, founder of allyoos, former stylist, colorist, and product developer. Ready to get to know your hair? Here, experts share insights on common hair types and how to care for each one to make hair healthier and more manageable.

Identifying Your Hair Type

Your hair type depends on your hair's curl pattern. Predetermined by genetics, hair patterns can be better understood by getting your hair wet and observing its natural shape. "Getting your hair wet always works. It will show how curly and how thick your hair truly is," says Paul Labrecque, creative director, master stylist, and colorist at Paul Labreque Salon and Skincare Spa. From there, you can use the visual cues and key characteristics outlined below to determine your curl pattern and hair type. The below hair typing system is one of the most commonly used, originally developed by Andre Walker, Oprah Winfrey's long-standing professional hair stylist.

Exploring The Four Main Hair Types

Straight Hair (Type 1)

Straight hair lies flat, lacks significant curl or wave, and can be fine or coarse. "Straight hair doesn't have the movement or bounce of wavy or curly hair, and it's pretty hard to get any kind of shape to hold steady when you put a curling iron or hot or velcro roller to it," says Denis. "Of all the hair shapes, straight hair is usually the least frizzy, maybe even no frizz at all." You likely have straight hair if your hair strands have no discernible curl pattern and naturally fall flat against your scalp. "Surprisingly, straight hair has nice dimension to it and is actually the most reflective and shiny," says Denis.

Wavy Hair (Type 2)

"Wavy hair is a really fun hair type," says Denis. "It has really nice movement to it since it's more shapely than straight hair, but not as heavy or dense as curly hair." If you have wavy hair, your hair curls into a gentle "S" or "C" shape. It's not pin straight, but not as tightly curled as curly or coily hair.

"Wavy hair shape usually means that hair density is either fine-to-medium or medium-to-thick. This combination of shape and a little bit of weight from a thicker density is the perfect combination for movement — and movement makes the hair look really healthy," continues Denis. If you've noticed your hair falls in a wavy pattern but is more frizzy, Labrecque says it's normal for this hair type.

There are various types of wavy hair: Type 2A, 2B, and 2C.

• Type 2A: If your hair is wavy type 2A, the hair from your roots to your face is more straight, while the bottoms feature loose waves.
• Type 2B: If your waves happen from the middle to the end of your hair, you may have wavy type 2B hair. This type tends to see more of a defined "S" curl shape.
• Type 2C: Type 2C waves are the most defined of the three, with strong "S" shaped waves starting at the root of the hair and continuing throughout.

Curly Hair (Type 3)

Curly hair forms tighter and more defined curls or ringlets. It can range from loose curls to corkscrew curls. "For curly hair shapes, density can really run the whole gamut — baby fine, fine, medium, thick, coarse — all of it," says Denis. "Curly hair shapes can be super tight or super loose. Curly hair usually grows out before it grows down, so it can take curly hair types longer to grow long hair." If your hair naturally forms distinct curls, either big or small, you have curly hair. Curly hair often has more volume than straight or wavy hair.

There are multiple types of curly hair: Type 3A, 3B, and 3C.

• Type 3A: If your curls are on the wider side, you likely have type 3A curls. However, brushing through this type of hair can diminish the curl pattern and end up in frizz, so test it wet to find out.
• Type 3B: If your curls are about as wide as a magic marker, they fall into the type 3B category. These curls typically have a lot of bounce and volume.
• Type 3C: These tightly wound curls are smaller in circumference, about the width of a straw. They may be called "corkscrew curls" and are tight and springy.

Coily Hair (Type 4)

Coily hair, also known as kinky or afro-textured hair, forms tight coils or zigzag patterns. It tends to be densely packed and can shrink in length. "This hair type springs back three times as short when you pull on it," says Labreque. If your hair naturally coils tightly, has a lot of spring, and appears densely packed, you likely have coily hair.

Similar to Type 2 and Type 3, there are multiple types of coily hair: Type 4A, 4B, and 4C.

• Type 4A: Type 4A curls are tight and springy like Type 3C, but the circumference is about as small as a knitting needle.
• Type 4B: If your curls fall in a tight zigzag pattern, you likely have 4B curls.
• Type 4C: The tightest and most delicate of any hair type, the curl pattern of Type 4C hair is small and tightly wound.
  

Caring for Your Hair Type

Now that you've determined your hair type, it's time to treat it right. Here are expert recommendations for every type of hair.

Straight Hair Care Routine

To care for straight hair, Becca Raziuddin, a multi-state licensed hair stylist and cosmetologist, celebrity hair consultant, and director of artist education at Blo Blow Dry Bar, recommends washing hair 2-3 times a week with a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner and using a deep conditioning treatment once a month.

Regular haircuts are especially important for this hair type. "Regular haircuts are important for straight hair, to keep split ends at bay," says Denis. "Split ends will be most noticeable with straight hair since there is less shape to bend and hide them away. Also, we want to keep straight hair from getting too stringy looking and want to keep ends looking fresh, with a nice solid line."

Styling Techniques for Straight Hair

"Depending on density, your haircut can really determine if you love or don't love your straight hair," says Denis. If straight hair is baby fine to fine, Denis recommends keeping the hair pretty short and chic. Straight, fine hair will look great with a bob, a long bob, or true shoulder-length hair. "If hair is straight/fine-to-medium, you can get away with hair being a little longer," says Denis.

Common Mistakes to Avoid for Straight Hair

It's understandable to want to do something different with your straight hair every now and then. But Denis says you'll likely be disappointed if you try to curl straight hair. "Straight hair can be resistant to shape and really just wants to be straight," she says. Instead of adding curl and trying to change it, Denis recommends making it even straighter, with dramatic side parts, chic low ponytails, braids, and buns.

Wavy Hair Care Routine

"Wavy hair always has a tendency to frizz, so it needs more care and upkeep," says Labrecque. To keep frizz at bay, he recommends washing and conditioning with a lipid-based conditioner, applying a plant-based humectant styler to help hold waves, using a diffuser to dry hair, and adding a shine spray for best results.

Styling Techniques for Wavy Hair

One of the best ways to style wavy hair is to let it air dry. "This hair type is great for air-drying since the shape totally wants it and wants to look free — and depending on the weather (rain especially), the hair will take on even more shape, and the waves will be even more pronounced," says Denis. Wavy hair also looks great with a classic round-brush blow dry. "It will easily take on the shape of the round brush and will be nice and bouncy and full of movement — and bend will stay pretty well depending on what styling products you use to heat style," says Denis.

Also, don't underestimate the importance of a great haircut to bring out those waves. "Having your hair cut with the right amount of layers will help your waves move more and look beautiful, and this will add in some great volume," says Labrecque.

Common Mistakes to Avoid for Wavy Hair

Don't wait until your wavy hair dries to comb it out. Raziuddin says wavy hair is best detangled when wet to avoid frizz. To help waves reach their full potential, take advantage of wave-defining products like a plant-based humectant.

Curly Hair Care Routine

"Curly hair types should shampoo less and use a gentle rinse for their hair to wash in between shampoo days," says Denis. Because this type of hair requires more products to create and maintain shape, it's important to thoroughly wash curly hair on wash days. "Build-up is the enemy of curly hair — anything that weighs shape down, we want off the scalp and out of the hair." Regular weekly hair masks are also recommended for curly hair types. "Hydration and nourishment will do wonders for shape and will really bring it out even more," says Denis. "The more we 'treat' shape and give it all the hydration it needs (it needs a lot), the less styling products curls will need, the more we'll limit build-up."

Styling Techniques for Curly Hair

Since curly hair is prone to dryness, Raziuddin stresses the importance of heat protection to keep hair from drying out. "Always use a heat protectant before heat styling, and be mindful of the temperature of the hot tool you may be using," she says. Labrecque recommends diffusing or air drying for the best styling results for curly hair. "Don't touch during the drying process so your curls stay big and remain as frizz-free as possible," he says.

Common Mistakes to Avoid for Curly Hair

Curly hair is already dry, so we don't want it drier. "Avoid any products with ingredients ending in 'cone,' these are silicones, and with Cyclopentasiloxane on the label," says Denis. Raziuddin recommends brushing curly hair with added caution to avoid damage. "Start from the ends and work your way up gradually, rather than starting at the roots," she says. "This approach helps to detangle the hair more gently and avoids excessive strain on the strands."

Coily Hair Care Routine

Coily hair should be shampooed and conditioned infrequently to avoid damage and frizz, no more than one to two times per week. Co-washing, or using conditioner to rinse coily hair instead of shampooing, has become a popular trend to keep coily hair looking healthy. Labrecque recommends using a substantial amount of leave-in conditioner, as well as a curl humectant, regularly as well. When combing out coily hair, do so while wet with a wide-tooth comb.

Styling Techniques for Coily Hair

To style coily hair, Labrecque recommends adding an ample amount of styling product to very wet hair, then spirling hair around your fingers and letting it air dry. Similar to curly hair, Raziuddin suggests using less heat to protect coily hair. When it comes to styling curly hair, less is more. Big, coily hair that's doing its natural thing is in, so embrace it.

Common Mistakes to Avoid for Coily Hair

If you're going to spread out your tight and coily curls, Labreque says it's best to do once dry. "Coily hair must be very dry before you try to separate the coils to make bigger hair," he says. "When very dry, split a coil in two, retwist with your finger, and you'll have big voluminous hair." Splitting coily while dry to style it for more volume is great, but Raziuddin says coily hair is best detangled when wet to cut down on frizz and maintain the curl.

All hair types are beautiful and should be celebrated. Some require more maintenance. Others require more patience and effort when styling. But the best type of hair is the one that's healthy and well cared for, which should always be the goal.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can you change hair types?

A: No, you can't change your hair type. However, there may be some temporary things you can do in styling to change your hair for a day. For example, you can use blow dryers or hot curling or straightening tools to straighten hair or add curls.

Q: How does porosity affect hair?

A: Porosity is your hair's ability to absorb and hold moisture. Porous hair tends to frizz easily and can be more prone to breakage and dryness. In general, curly and coily hair types tend to be more porous than straight or wavy hair. This can affect which hair products you use and how often you should wash your hair. For example, porous hair may only benefit from a wash once or twice a week, whereas straight hair may benefit from daily or every other day washes.

Q: What is hair density and how does it affect hair care?

A: Hair density refers to how many strands per square inch on your scalp and is categorized as low (fewer strands), medium, or high (more strands). Hair density affects which hair products work best for your hair. For example, high density hair can often benefit from deep conditioning and thick creams, whereas low density hair would look greasy and flat with the same products. Low density hair tends to do better with lightweight and volumizing products.