Journal Description
Cosmetics
Cosmetics
is an international, scientific, peer-reviewed, open access journal on the science and technology of cosmetics published bimonthly online by MDPI.
- Open Access— free for readers, with article processing charges (APC) paid by authors or their institutions.
- High Visibility: indexed within Scopus, ESCI (Web of Science), CAPlus / SciFinder, and other databases.
- Journal Rank: JCR - Q2 (Dermatology) / CiteScore - Q1 (Surgery)
- Rapid Publication: manuscripts are peer-reviewed and a first decision is provided to authors approximately 21.5 days after submission; acceptance to publication is undertaken in 4.7 days (median values for papers published in this journal in the first half of 2024).
- Recognition of Reviewers: reviewers who provide timely, thorough peer-review reports receive vouchers entitling them to a discount on the APC of their next publication in any MDPI journal, in appreciation of the work done.
Impact Factor:
3.4 (2023)
Latest Articles
Sustainable Dynamic Wrinkle Efficacy: Non-Invasive Peptides as the Future of Botox Alternatives
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 118; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040118 - 11 Jul 2024
Abstract
Dynamic wrinkle reduction continues to challenge aesthetic dermatology, predominantly addressed through Botulinumtoxin (Botox) injections. Despite Botox’s robust efficacy with up to an 80% reduction in wrinkle visibility within just one week, its invasive administration and specific mechanism of soluble N-ethylmaleimide-sensitive factor attachment protein
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Dynamic wrinkle reduction continues to challenge aesthetic dermatology, predominantly addressed through Botulinumtoxin (Botox) injections. Despite Botox’s robust efficacy with up to an 80% reduction in wrinkle visibility within just one week, its invasive administration and specific mechanism of soluble N-ethylmaleimide-sensitive factor attachment protein receptor (SNARE) complex inhibition prompt the exploration of safer, non-invasive alternatives. This review critically assesses recent innovations in non-invasive effects, with a focus on peptides and botanical extracts that exhibit a diverse array of mechanisms including SNARE complex inhibition, modulation of calcium and sodium channels, and interactions with acetylcholine receptors, contributing to their effectiveness in muscle relaxation on dynamic wrinkle approaches. Noteworthy peptides such as Argireline and SYN-Ake replicate the neuromodulatory effects of Botox, achieving up to a 52% reduction in wrinkles within four weeks without injections. Moreover, botanical extracts meet the rising demand for clean beauty solutions by enhancing skin elasticity and health through gentle yet potent mechanisms. However, the main concern with peptides is their low absorption rate, with only six clinical validations regarding Botox-like peptide anti-wrinkle efficacy available. These advancements not only deepen our understanding of cosmetic dermatology but also significantly influence market dynamics and consumer behavior, underscoring their pivotal role in redefining the future landscape of anti-aging effects.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)
Open AccessArticle
Preliminary Experience with a Cleansing Mousse and a Non-Steroidal Emulsion for the Prevention and Treatment of Acute Radiation Dermatitis in Breast Cancer Patients Undergoing Adjuvant Radiotherapy
by
Anna Viola, Emanuele Martorana, Valentina Zagardo and Gianluca Ferini
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 117; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040117 (registering DOI) - 11 Jul 2024
Abstract
Background: Radiation dermatitis (RD) is the most frequent side effect in patients undergoing adjuvant radiotherapy (RT) for breast cancer. Despite the skin-sparing benefits of new RT techniques, most patients develop RD. There is currently no standard treatment to prevent and soothe RD, which
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Background: Radiation dermatitis (RD) is the most frequent side effect in patients undergoing adjuvant radiotherapy (RT) for breast cancer. Despite the skin-sparing benefits of new RT techniques, most patients develop RD. There is currently no standard treatment to prevent and soothe RD, which is generally managed with emollients, moisturizers, or corticosteroids. We conducted a prospective observational study to evaluate the rate and grade of RD with the application of a cleansing mousse and a non-steroidal emulsion during the adjuvant RT program in patients with breast cancer submitted to surgery. Materials and Methods: A cleansing mousse containing vegetable glycerin (12%), phytoextract of chamomile (0.5%), yarrow phytoextract (0.5%), sweet almond (0.1%), Oenothera oil (0.1%), and rice protein hydrolyzate (0.1%), and an emulsion containing micronized zinc oxide (3.7%), rapeseed phytosterols (1.7%), aloe (0.5%), 18-beta glycyrrhetinic acid (0.5%), alpha bisabolol (0.5%), and zanthalene (0.5%) were offered to breast cancer patients undergoing adjuvant RT to prevent the onset of RD and mitigate its severity. These specific ingredients were selected for their well-known anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and moisturizing properties. Skin toxicities were recorded photographically and graded according to the RTOG scoring system. Results: From March 2023 to July 2023, a total of 24 patients with a median age of 59 years (range 42–75) were enrolled. Halfway through the RT treatment, 20 patients (83.3%) had G0 skin toxicity, three (12.5%) G1, one (4.2%) G2. None showed G3–G4 toxicity. At the end of RT, seven patients (29.2%) exhibited G0 skin toxicity, 14 (58.3%) G1, two (8.3%) G2, one (4.2%) G3. No patient developed G4 toxicity. Fifteen days after the end of RT, 13 patients (54.2%) had G0 skin toxicity, 10 (41.1%) G1, one (4.2%) G2, with none showing G3–G4 toxicity. Conclusions: Our data suggest that the tested topicals might be an effective option for preventing and alleviating RD. Further prospective randomized studies are needed to confirm our findings.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessReview
Plant Essential Oil Nanoemulgel as a Cosmeceutical Ingredient: A Review
by
Xing Fui Yap, Seow Hoon Saw, Vuanghao Lim and Chin Xuan Tan
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 116; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040116 - 10 Jul 2024
Abstract
Essential oils (EOs) are concentrated, hydrophobic volatile compounds derived from different parts of plants. They are recognized for their diverse and versatile functional properties. Approximately 90% of EOs are administered via topical or transdermal routes. However, EOs are susceptible to oxidation, and their
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Essential oils (EOs) are concentrated, hydrophobic volatile compounds derived from different parts of plants. They are recognized for their diverse and versatile functional properties. Approximately 90% of EOs are administered via topical or transdermal routes. However, EOs are susceptible to oxidation, and their high volatility often poses a challenge to the transdermal delivery of their bioactive constituents. Additionally, the direct application of pure EOs on the skin may result in irritating effects. Hence, various novel carrier systems have been explored for the topical application of EOs. Among these, nanoemulgel has received particular attention from the cosmeceutical industry. It is a hybrid technology combining nanoemulsion and a gelling phase, which can enhance the bioadhesivity of EOs, at the same time minimizing their irritating effects. This review summarizes the methods of EO extraction, steps and factors influencing the preparation of EO nanoemulgel, and characterization parameters for nanoemulgel studies. The potential cosmeceutical applications of EO nanoemulgels as an anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, and penetration enhancer are also compiled and discussed.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Collection Editorial Board Members' Collection Series: "Novel Delivery Systems for Dermocosmetic Applications")
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Open AccessReview
A Spotlight on the Potential of Microscopic Motile Algae as Novel Sources for Modern Cosmetic Products
by
Maya Stoyneva-Gärtner, Blagoy Uzunov and Georg Gärtner
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 115; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040115 - 9 Jul 2024
Abstract
The recognition and use of algae in the very trend-driven cosmetic industry is progressively increasing. Up to now, the main focus was on large seaweeds and a limited number of microalgae. However, motile microalgae, flagellates, remain underscored in this aspect, although some of
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The recognition and use of algae in the very trend-driven cosmetic industry is progressively increasing. Up to now, the main focus was on large seaweeds and a limited number of microalgae. However, motile microalgae, flagellates, remain underscored in this aspect, although some of them are utilized commercially. Flagellates from different taxonomic groups occupy various habitats and contain bioactive high-value multifunctional compounds, some of which are novel. Moreover, they may simultaneously produce different substances, which together with the development of downstream processing technologies, makes them a promising source for modern biotechnology. The present review covers data on 411 strains, 251 species from 110 genera from 6 phyla, and is oriented generally towards less explored flagellates. It demonstrates their great potential as bearers of interesting novel compounds that can be beneficially applied in modern cosmetics. Safety aspects of both sources and products are also discussed. Considering the gaps in the knowledge, the necessity to expand the research on both well-known and yet unexplored microalgae is shown, encouraging the development of upstreaming processes, including phycoprospecting. Last but not least, this paper outlines the role of living culture collections and of using good taxonomic expertise before running the biochemical tests, cultivation, and bioengineering experiments.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)
Open AccessReview
Itch-Relieving Cosmetics
by
Ju Hee Han and Hei Sung Kim
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 114; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040114 - 9 Jul 2024
Abstract
This review aims to explore the evolving role of cosmetics in alleviating itch, transcending their traditional aesthetic function. With a focus on formulations enriched with natural oils and other bioactive components, we examine the efficacy and safety of various cosmetic ingredients designed to
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This review aims to explore the evolving role of cosmetics in alleviating itch, transcending their traditional aesthetic function. With a focus on formulations enriched with natural oils and other bioactive components, we examine the efficacy and safety of various cosmetic ingredients designed to control itch. Highlighted are ingredients such as colloidal oatmeal, postbiotics, menthol, peppermint, cryosim-1, capsaicin, asivatrep, polidocanol, pramoxine hydrocholoride, and palmitoylethanolamide, which are recognized to reduce itch. Special attention is also given to phytochemicals that can modulate the Janus kinase/signal transducer and activator of transcription signaling pathway and carry the potential as an itch-relieving cosmetic ingredient. This review encompasses clinical studies that verify the itch relieving effect of these cosmetic ingredients. By integrating current scientific evidence, we aim to shed light on the potential of anti-itch cosmetics as an adjunct to standard itch treatment, thereby broadening our understanding of their role in dermatological care.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
Open AccessReview
Strategic Approaches in Formulation Development for Atopic Dermatitis
by
Alberto Keidi Kurebayashi, Khanh Phan, Ayyah Abdoh, Newton Andreo-Filho, Patricia Santos Lopes, Yousuf Mohammed and Vania Rodrigues Leite-Silva
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 113; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040113 - 9 Jul 2024
Abstract
Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common chronic skin disease, significantly impacting patients’ quality of life. One of the most effective management approaches for AD involves addressing the defective skin barrier by urging AD patients to regularly use suitable moisturizers. Therapeutic moisturizers designed
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Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common chronic skin disease, significantly impacting patients’ quality of life. One of the most effective management approaches for AD involves addressing the defective skin barrier by urging AD patients to regularly use suitable moisturizers. Therapeutic moisturizers designed for AD are precisely formulated with ingredients targeting critical and often early symptoms of AD (e.g., itch, inflammation, damaged skin barrier). Dermo-cosmetic products, which are rich in moisturizing and emollient agents contributing to recovery as well as strengthening the skin barrier, have proven to be excellent adjuncts in AD treatment. There are various galenic forms of dermo-cosmetics, such as lotions, gels, creams, foams, and sprays, requiring a rationale in choosing ingredients for the product formulation and development. In addition, the role of moisturizer and emollient therapy to address skin dryness linked to dermatological conditions is hugely dependent on varying chemistry and morphology in the deeper regions of the skin. There are also limits to the efficacy of treatments, corticosteroid side effects, and product sensory appeal, which may decrease patient acceptance and compliance. The objective of this review is thus to offer a comprehensive overview of the critical aspects involved in the development of cosmetic vehicles, as well as a detailed examination of the primary ingredients used in formulations for AD.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessReview
High-Tech Sustainable Beauty: Exploring Nanotechnology for the Development of Cosmetics Using Plant and Animal By-Products
by
Gabriela Braga Barros Nhani, Leonardo Delello Di Filippo, Geanne Aparecida de Paula, Vitoria Ribeiro Mantovanelli, Patricia Pereira da Fonseca, Felipe Mota Tashiro, Diana Coêlho Monteiro, Bruno Fonseca-Santos, Jonatas L. Duarte and Marlus Chorilli
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 112; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040112 - 6 Jul 2024
Abstract
In a world increasingly focused on eco-conscious living, the cosmetic industry is actively adopting nanotechnology to transform plant and animal by-products into high-value beauty products. This comprehensive review explores the innovative and sustainable approaches for extracting and utilizing bioactive compounds from these by-products.
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In a world increasingly focused on eco-conscious living, the cosmetic industry is actively adopting nanotechnology to transform plant and animal by-products into high-value beauty products. This comprehensive review explores the innovative and sustainable approaches for extracting and utilizing bioactive compounds from these by-products. The application of nanocarrier systems is highlighted for their role in enhancing the delivery efficacy and safety of these ingredients in skincare and beauty products. Consumer demand and environmental concerns drive the shift towards natural and sustainable cosmetic products. Traditional cosmetic production often involves significant ecological impacts, prompting the industry to seek greener alternatives. This review addresses the critical need for sustainable beauty solutions that align with global sustainability goals, particularly those outlined in the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development. The review provides valuable insights into current trends and future directions in sustainable cosmetics by focusing on nanotechnology and by-products. The review uniquely integrates nanotechnology with sustainability practices in the cosmetic industry. It details the benefits of using nanocarriers to improve the stability, bioavailability, and efficacy of bioactive compounds derived from natural waste. This intersection of high-tech methodologies and sustainability offers a novel perspective on cosmetic innovation. Future research should focus on overcoming the technical, regulatory, and economic challenges of scaling up nanotechnology applications. Investigations should include the development of transparent supply chains, standardization methods for characterizing nanoparticles, and comprehensive lifecycle assessments to ensure environmental safety. Additionally, fostering collaboration between scientific research, industry practices, and consumer education is vital for advancing sustainable practices. This review contributes to the broader discourse on sustainable beauty by presenting a clear pathway for integrating these innovative approaches. It ensures that future cosmetic products meet consumer expectations for efficacy and safety and promote environmental stewardship and a circular economy, ultimately benefiting both the skin and the planet.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Delivery Systems for Dermatologic and Dermocosmetics Products)
Open AccessArticle
Antioxidative Potentials of Eleutherine bulbosa Bulb and Its Utilization in Topical Cosmetic Emulsion
by
Nattakan Panyachariwat, Ampa Jimtaisong and Nisakorn Saewan
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 111; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040111 - 6 Jul 2024
Abstract
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The Eleutherine bulbosa bulb has been reported as a potent antioxidant in food. This work aims to extract the E. bulbosa bulb for use as an antioxidative agent in cosmetics. Water, 95% ethanol (EtOH), and propylene glycol (PG), which are normally used in
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The Eleutherine bulbosa bulb has been reported as a potent antioxidant in food. This work aims to extract the E. bulbosa bulb for use as an antioxidative agent in cosmetics. Water, 95% ethanol (EtOH), and propylene glycol (PG), which are normally used in cosmetic formulation, were employed as green and sustainable extraction solvents. EtOH and PG displayed better candidacy to extract active components from E. bulbosa bulbs than using water, and the mixture of EtOH and PG (EtOH/PG) resulted in the extract with higher bioactive compounds and biological activities compared with using EtOH or PG. The total phenolic content of the EtOH/PG extract was 87.60 ± 2.00 mgGAE/mL which was about an 18–23% increase from when using single EtOH or PG (70.91 ± 2.30, 74.05 ± 0.67 mgGAE/mL). UHPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS/MS analysis showed that the E. bulbosa bulb extracted in EtOH/PG was composed of naphthalenes, naphthoquinones, anthraquinones, myricetin, quercetin, epicatechin, catechin, epigallocatechin, and their derivatives. The ethanolic crude extract exhibited anti-elastase and anti-collagenase activity with the IC50 of 7.76 ± 0.35 and 0.53 ± 0.23 mg/mL, respectively, and was non-cytotoxic to human dermal fibroblast cells at 0.0001–1 mg/mL. The emulsion cream containing 2%(w/w) E. bulbosa bulb concentrated extract was found cosmetically stable after a one-month stability test under 4 °C, ambient temperature (30–35 °C), 45 °C, fluorescent light, and daylight. However, exposure to sunlight during daytime caused changes in the emulsion’s color with ΔE* of 3.85 ± 0.08, and at 45 °C caused the 12% decrease in DPPH activity of emulsion. The finding of this work heightens the antioxidative and safety potentials of the E. bulbosa bulb in cosmetic preparations.
Full article
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Open AccessReview
Cosmetic Packaging: European Regulatory Aspects and Sustainability
by
Silvia Morel, Giulia Mura, Marina Gallarate and Simona Sapino
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 110; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040110 - 30 Jun 2024
Abstract
This review aims to provide a comprehensive overview of various aspects related to cosmetic product packaging, highlighting both advancements and challenges in the field. Initially, it offers a general description of the main materials used in cosmetic containers, including plastic, glass, paper, and
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This review aims to provide a comprehensive overview of various aspects related to cosmetic product packaging, highlighting both advancements and challenges in the field. Initially, it offers a general description of the main materials used in cosmetic containers, including plastic, glass, paper, and aluminum. This is followed by an analysis of the existing EU legislative frameworks that govern cosmetic packaging, encompassing chemical, food, and waste regulations. The paper also discusses recent EU regulatory proposals and guidelines from trade associations aimed at enhancing the sustainability of cosmetic packaging materials. Additionally, the role of recycled and bio-based packaging materials in promoting environmental sustainability is analyzed. Overall, this review aims to provide insights for experts in the field on how to balance safety, functionality, and environmental responsibility in cosmetic packaging.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessReview
Artificial Intelligence in Plastic Surgery: Advancements, Applications, and Future
by
Tran Van Duong, Vu Pham Thao Vy and Truong Nguyen Khanh Hung
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 109; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040109 - 27 Jun 2024
Abstract
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Artificial intelligence (AI) is revolutionizing plastic surgery through its remarkable advancements in various domains such as image analysis, robotic assistance, predictive analytics, and augmented reality. Predictive analytics, powered by AI, harnesses patient data to predict surgical outcomes, minimize risks, and tailor treatment plans,
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Artificial intelligence (AI) is revolutionizing plastic surgery through its remarkable advancements in various domains such as image analysis, robotic assistance, predictive analytics, and augmented reality. Predictive analytics, powered by AI, harnesses patient data to predict surgical outcomes, minimize risks, and tailor treatment plans, thereby optimizing patient care and safety. Augmented reality and virtual reality technology are also reshaping the cosmetic surgery landscape, providing immersive experiences for preoperative imaging, intraoperative guidance, and advanced skills through simulation. Looking ahead, the future of AI in plastic surgery holds great promise, including personalized medicine, bioprinting of tissues and organs, and continuous learning through iterative improvement algorithms based on real-world surgical experience. However, amid these transformational advances, ethical considerations and regulatory frameworks must evolve to ensure the responsible deployment of AI, protect patient privacy, minimize errors and algorithmic deviation, and uphold standards of fairness and transparency. Our study aims to explore the role of AI in the field of plastic surgery with the potential for the future in mind. In summary, AI is considered a beacon of innovation in plastic surgery, enhancing surgical precision, enhancing patient outcomes, and heralding a future where interventions rely on personalized technology that will redefine the boundaries of aesthetic and regenerative medicine.
Full article
![](https://pub.mdpi-res.com/cosmetics/cosmetics-11-00109/article_deploy/html/images/cosmetics-11-00109-g001-550.jpg?1720686333)
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Open AccessReview
Examining How Diet and Lifestyle Influence Skin Appearance through a Common Risk Factor: Excess Iron—A Comprehensive Review
by
Tianshu Yang, Lungchi Chen and Xi Huang
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 108; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040108 - 27 Jun 2024
Abstract
In the contemporary era, youthful and healthy skin is a pivotal determinant of beauty. Choices pertaining to one’s dietary and lifestyle practices wield substantial influence over skin health. Currently, the focal point of attention lies in strategies that delay skin aging and maintain
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In the contemporary era, youthful and healthy skin is a pivotal determinant of beauty. Choices pertaining to one’s dietary and lifestyle practices wield substantial influence over skin health. Currently, the focal point of attention lies in strategies that delay skin aging and maintain skin quality. Remarkably, the skin, the body’s largest organ, serves as the primary defense barrier against external elements. Skin aging encompasses intrinsic and extrinsic categories, both susceptible to genetic, lifestyle, and environmental factors. Given the strides in science and technology, the pursuit of effective and safe interventions for skin aging assumes paramount importance. Thus, this review delves into the intricate relationship between diet, lifestyle, and skin aging, culminating in an exploration of the crucial role played by excess iron in this intricate nexus. Understanding these dynamics holds promise for advancing our knowledge of skincare and the quest for timeless vitality.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Chinese American Cosmetic Professional Association (CACPA)—a Collaborative and Inclusive Platform for Research and Education of Cosmetic and Personal Care Products)
Open AccessArticle
Extending the Physical Functionality of Bioactive Blends of Astrocaryum Pulp and Kernel Oils from Guyana
by
Laziz Bouzidi, Shaveshwar Deonarine, Navindra Soodoo, R. J. Neil Emery, Sanela Martic and Suresh S. Narine
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 107; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040107 - 26 Jun 2024
Abstract
Natural lipids with nutritional or therapeutic benefits that also provide desired texture, melting and organoleptic appeal (mouthfeel, skin feel) are difficult to procure for the food and cosmetics industries. Natural Astrocaryum pulp oil (AVP) and kernel fat (AVK) from Guyana were blended without
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Natural lipids with nutritional or therapeutic benefits that also provide desired texture, melting and organoleptic appeal (mouthfeel, skin feel) are difficult to procure for the food and cosmetics industries. Natural Astrocaryum pulp oil (AVP) and kernel fat (AVK) from Guyana were blended without further modification to study the potential of extending the physical functionality of the blends beyond that of crude AVK and AVP. An evaluation of non-lipid components by ESI-MS indicated twenty-four (24) bioactive molecules, mainly carotenoids (90%), polyphenols (9%) and sterols (1%) in AVP, indicating important health and therapeutic benefits. Only trace-to-negligible amounts of these compounds were detected in AVK. The thermal transition phase behavior, solid fat content (SFC), microstructure and textural properties of five AVP/AVL blends were used to construct phase diagrams of the AVK/AVP binary system. Binary phase diagrams constructed from the cooling and heating DSC thermograms of the mixtures and description of the liquidus line indicated a mixing behavior close to ideal with a tendency for order, with no phase separation. Melting onsets, solid fat content and measurements of solid-like texture all predictively increased with increasing AVK content. The descriptive decay parameters obtained for SFC, crystal size, hardness, firmness and spreadability were similar and predictive and indicate the way the binary system structure approaches that of a liquid or a functional solid. The bioactive content of the blends was accurately calculated; the work provides a blueprint for the blending of AVP and AVK to deliver targeted bioactive content, stability, spreadability, texture, melting profile, organoleptic appeal and solid content. SFCs at 20 °C ranged from 9.1% to 39.1%, melting onset from −17.5 °C to 27.8 °C, hardness from 0.1 N to 3.5 N and spreadability from 3.3 N·s to 147.1 N·s; indicating a useful dynamic range of physical properties suitable for bioactive oils to bioactive butters.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics)
Open AccessArticle
The Influence of Physical Characteristics of Wet Wipe Fabrics on the Microbial Biomass Accumulation
by
Noa Ziklo, Idit Yuli, Maayan Bibi and Paul Salama
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 106; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040106 - 26 Jun 2024
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The physicochemical properties of nonwoven wet wipe fabrics have a strong influence on the ability of microorganisms to attach and multiply, until a biofilm is formed. Cellulose-based fabrics, being biodegradable, represent a major contamination risk. In addition, having a hydrophilic nature, they provide
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The physicochemical properties of nonwoven wet wipe fabrics have a strong influence on the ability of microorganisms to attach and multiply, until a biofilm is formed. Cellulose-based fabrics, being biodegradable, represent a major contamination risk. In addition, having a hydrophilic nature, they provide a good platform for microorganisms attachment. To optimize biodegradable wet wipes antimicrobial quality, it is crucial to assess the impact of physicochemical properties, e.g., density, pore size, fiber diameter, contact angle and surface charge. Here, we investigated the physical characteristics of commonly used nonwoven fabrics from both synthetic (Polyethylene terephthalate, PET) and natural components (wood pulp and viscose), to evaluate their effect on microbial contamination. We found that the hydrophobicity of the fabric had varying influence on attachment, depending on the microbial strain. However, the geometry, as well as the fabric pore size greatly affected attachment regardless of the microbial strain, in which a larger pore size resulted in lower accumulation of microbial biomass. Our study gives insight into the characteristics of wet wipes that can affect the preservation efficacy and microbial contamination risk, in one of the biggest segments in the personal care industry.
Full article
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Open AccessArticle
The Inhibition of Oxidative Stress-Mediated Cell Apoptosis by the Caspase Inhibitor (S)-3-((S)-2-(6-(2,3-dihydrobenzo[b][1,4]dioxin-6-yl)-1-oxoisoindolin-2-yl)butanamido)-4-oxo-5-(2,3,5,6-tetrafluorophenoxy)pentanoic Acid in Human Dermal Papilla Cells
by
Bomi Park, Daeun Kim, Yurim Lee, Seihyun Choi, HeeDong Park, Sanghwa Lee and Jaesung Hwang
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 105; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040105 - 22 Jun 2024
Abstract
Alopecia is traditionally viewed as androgen-dependent, but emerging evidence has implicated oxidative stress in the pathogenesis of hair loss. Current treatments for alopecia have limited efficacy, leading to the need for new therapies. Human dermal papilla cells (hDPCs) play a pivotal role in
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Alopecia is traditionally viewed as androgen-dependent, but emerging evidence has implicated oxidative stress in the pathogenesis of hair loss. Current treatments for alopecia have limited efficacy, leading to the need for new therapies. Human dermal papilla cells (hDPCs) play a pivotal role in hair follicle (HF) development and hair growth regulation. In this study, we investigated the potential of (S)-3-((S)-2-(6-(2,3-dihydrobenzo[b][1,4]dioxin-6-yl)-1-oxoisoindolin-2-yl)butanamido)-4-oxo-5-(2,3,5,6 tetrafluorophenoxy) pentanoic acid (THPA), a pan-caspase inhibitor, to reduce ROS-induced cellular damage and apoptosis in hDPCs. Our study revealed that THPA effectively suppressed hydrogen peroxide-induced apoptosis while also attenuating activated caspase signaling. Additionally, THPA restored the down-regulated expression of β-catenin, a key mediator of the Wnt/β-catenin pathway, in hDPCs exposed to hydrogen peroxide. Furthermore, significant alterations in Akt/mTOR/p70S6K signaling were observed following THPA treatment. Notably, THPA treatment led to a reduction in the expression of Dickkopf-1 (DKK-1), an inhibitor of the Wnt/β-catenin pathway implicated in hair follicle regression. Moreover, THPA treatment decreased the expression of the cell senescence markers p21 and p16, suggesting a potential role in preserving hDPC function and delaying hair follicle regression. Collectively, our findings highlight the therapeutic potential of THPA in preventing hair loss by protecting hDPCs against oxidative stress damage.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessArticle
Development of an Antioxidant, Anti-Aging, and Photoprotective Phytocosmetic from Discarded Agave sisalana Perrine Roots
by
Guilherme dos Santos Mazo, Julia Amanda Rodrigues Fracasso, Luísa Taynara Silvério da Costa, Valdecir Farias Ximenes, Natália Alves Zoppe, Amanda Martins Viel, Lucas Pires Guarnier, Beatriz de Castro Silva, Luan Victor Coelho de Almeida and Lucinéia dos Santos
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 104; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030104 - 20 Jun 2024
Abstract
The primary source of hard fiber globally is Agave sisalana Perrine, also known as sisal. In areas where sisal is grown, the roots of the plant are usually left in the field after it has stopped producing, which leads to soil degradation and
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The primary source of hard fiber globally is Agave sisalana Perrine, also known as sisal. In areas where sisal is grown, the roots of the plant are usually left in the field after it has stopped producing, which leads to soil degradation and decreased sisal productivity. It is, therefore, critical to find alternatives to reuse this waste. This study explores the potential use of sisal waste in the cosmetic industry by incorporating a hydroethanolic extract (HER) into a cream–gel formulation, taking advantage of the plant’s recognized ethnopharmacological value. The study involves analyzing the extract’s phytochemical composition (flavonoids) and evaluating its cytotoxicity. Subsequently, the antioxidant and antiglycation activities of the extract and cream–gel are evaluated, as well as ex vivo ocular toxicity, photoprotective activity, and preliminary stability analyses. The HER extract showed a flavonoid composition (catechin, kaempferol, isorhamnetin, and chrysin) and maintained cell viability above 70% throughout all time points analyzed in the MTT assay. Furthermore, the extract and the formulation demonstrated proven antioxidant and antiglycation activities. The cream–gel’s UVB and UVA protection effectiveness with the HER was comparable to that of synthetic UVB/UVA sunscreens, with the samples proving nonirritating and stable. In conclusion, the extract has a significant presence of flavonoids, and the cream–gel developed with it did not present cytotoxicity and met the stability requirements, indicating phytocosmetic potential with antioxidant, antiglycation, and photoprotective properties.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Sources for Cosmetic Ingredients: Challenges and Innovations)
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Open AccessArticle
Establishing the Inhibition of the Serine Protease Plasmin as a Skin Anti-Aging Pathway
by
Remo Campiche, Dominik Imfeld, Chennakesava Cuddapah, Leithe Budel and Mathias Gempeler
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 103; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030103 - 19 Jun 2024
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Plasmin is a serine protease induced by UV-irradiation in skin that contributes to inflammation. We showed that plasmin is upregulated in photo-exposed facial skin and that this correlates with increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Plasmin activity upregulates downstream pathways such as pro-inflammatory cytokines
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Plasmin is a serine protease induced by UV-irradiation in skin that contributes to inflammation. We showed that plasmin is upregulated in photo-exposed facial skin and that this correlates with increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Plasmin activity upregulates downstream pathways such as pro-inflammatory cytokines and matrix-metalloproteinases (MMPs). In addition, the plasminogen system modulates cutaneous melanogenesis. In this study, we investigated potential skin-aging effects of plasmin with a dual inhibitor of plasmin and its activator urokinase (uPA). We established a range of in vitro and ex vivo assays to investigate inflammation, MMP-9 activation, and collagen modulation, and the melanogenesis modulation activity of plasmin. A specific plasmin inhibitor, Amidinobenzyl Benzylsulfonyl D-Seryl Homophenylalaninamide Acetate (ABSHA), was used in these assays to downregulate these effects. We found that ABSHA was able to down-regulate UV-irradiation-induced MMP-9 expression, and subsequent collagen IV degradation, ex vivo. In addition, the increased melanin synthesis in epidermal melanocytes was reduced significantly by ABSHA. Furthermore, dermal fibroblasts treated with the plasmin inhibitor showed increased collagen I synthesis. We further investigated these effects in a two-month, monocentric, placebo-controlled human study on female Chinese volunteers. We found a significant increase in collagen density by ultrasound measurement and an increase in elasticity by cutometer assessment in the group using a formulation consisting of a 10 ppm ABSHA solution. This resulted in decreased wrinkle volumes on both the forehead and crow’s feet as shown by Primos CR. Looking at age spots, there was a decrease in overall ITA° and melanin density as well as in the total age spot area. Our results establish plasmin as a skin-aging enzyme. Using specific inhibitors against plasmin shows promise against age-induced skin conditions.
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Open AccessArticle
Exploring the Use of Natural Ingredients for the Protection of Textured Hair from Ultraviolet Radiation: An In Vitro Study
by
Ewa Markiewicz and Olusola C. Idowu
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 102; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030102 - 19 Jun 2024
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Human hair is characterized by significant diversity, which is dictated by the individual genetic makeup. It is estimated that up to 70% of the world’s population has textured hair, with a significant proportion also living in areas with high exposure to ultraviolet radiation
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Human hair is characterized by significant diversity, which is dictated by the individual genetic makeup. It is estimated that up to 70% of the world’s population has textured hair, with a significant proportion also living in areas with high exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR). This highlights the unique requirements for textured hair care products that can protect hair shafts from the harmful effects of the environment whilst enhancing the natural features of the fibre. In this study, we investigated the UV-protective effects of hair conditioner formulated from active ingredients, mangiferin, ferulic acid and naringin. The analysis of UV-irradiated straight and textured hair was performed by measurements of hair thickness and darkness, the uptake of the fluorescent dye, spectral absorbance of keratin extracts, ATR-FTIR and SEM. We found that textured hair was more sensitive to UVR-induced changes than straight hair, with the primary molecular targets represented by chemical groups in keratins. Pre-treatment of the hair with conditioner had protective effects against structural damage and oxidative stress caused by UVR. These data indicate the importance of the personalized approach to hair research and the formulation of hair care products tailored to the individual demands of textured hair types.
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Open AccessArticle
Effects of CE Ferulic® Combined with Microneedling in the Treatment of Pigmentary Disorders: A Monocentric, Split Face, Comparative Study
by
Ilaria Proietti, Stefania Guida, Agnieszka Dybala, Alessandra Spagnoli and Concetta Potenza
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 101; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030101 - 17 Jun 2024
Abstract
Pigmentary disorders of the face present a significant challenge in dermatology, impacting the confidence and well-being of affected individuals. Various approaches have been developed to address these concerns, including microneedling and topical vitamin C products. This study involved 15 participants undergoing three treatment
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Pigmentary disorders of the face present a significant challenge in dermatology, impacting the confidence and well-being of affected individuals. Various approaches have been developed to address these concerns, including microneedling and topical vitamin C products. This study involved 15 participants undergoing three treatment sessions over 12 weeks, assessing the efficacy of a combined microneedling and CE Ferulic® serum approach. Clinical evaluation and statistical analysis were conducted before and after the intervention. Significant improvement of akin hyperpigmentation was observed, particularly on the side treated with microneedling and CE Ferulic® serum compared to microneedling alone. The integrated treatment protocol demonstrated a synergistic effect in improving skin texture and appearance. Integrated treatment protocols, such as combining microneedling with CE Ferulic® serum, show promise in managing facial hyperpigmentation disorders. Further research with larger cohorts is warranted to validate these findings and optimize treatment strategies, highlighting the potential of combined therapeutic modalities for achieving optimal clinical outcomes in pigmentary disorder management.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue New Advances in Medical and Cosmetic Dermatology)
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Open AccessArticle
A Split-Face Comparison of Novel Microneedle Patch versus Botulinum Toxin-A and Microneedle Patch for Improvement in Undereye Skin Texture
by
Polen Te, Jitlada Meephansan, Punyaphat Sirithanabadeekul, Purit Pureesrisak, Kittipong Tantisantisom, Sattra Thongma, Yossawat Rayanasukha, Punyanuch Adulyaritthikul and Paisan Khanchaitit
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 100; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030100 - 17 Jun 2024
Abstract
(1) Background: The emergence of microneedle patch technology and its development as a transdermal drug delivery platform have shown proven results in improving skin texture and appearance. This study was conducted to determine the efficacy of the microneedle patch (MNP)-only cosmesis of undereye
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(1) Background: The emergence of microneedle patch technology and its development as a transdermal drug delivery platform have shown proven results in improving skin texture and appearance. This study was conducted to determine the efficacy of the microneedle patch (MNP)-only cosmesis of undereye skin texture and wrinkles against patch cosmesis with diluted botulinum toxin-A. (2) Methods: A total of 23 Thai females volunteered for this prospective clinical trial. Each participant was treated according to a split-face design, with the application of diluted botulinum toxin-A through MNP technology to the right undereye and a normal saline MNP application to the left undereye. Test areas were recorded at baseline and 2, 4, 8, 12, and 16 weeks after the initial treatment. (3) Results: Botulinum toxin-A was successfully delivered to the skin by MNP technology. After the initial treatment, these novel transdermal drug delivery patches significantly improved infraorbital hollowness at week 8 and wrinkles at week 16. In addition, the skin surface was markedly enhanced, with no adverse effects observed during the trial. (4) Conclusions: Novel MNPs are an effective and safe technology for use in the management of undereye skin aging. Combination treatment with botulinum toxin-A-impregnated devices gave a higher patient satisfaction than MNPs alone.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Delivery Systems for Dermatologic and Dermocosmetics Products)
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Open AccessArticle
Thermophilic Composting as a Means to Evaluate the Biodegradability of Polymers Used in Cosmetic Formulations
by
Timothy W. Gillece, Helen K. Gerardi, Roger L. McMullen, William T. Thompson and Daniel H. Brown
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 99; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030099 - 16 Jun 2024
Abstract
In the last decade, a growing demand for sustainable cosmetic ingredients has yielded numerous biodegradation protocols. While OECD (Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development) aquatic assays are suitable for water-borne chemicals, it is crucial for the personal care industry to consider the persistence
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In the last decade, a growing demand for sustainable cosmetic ingredients has yielded numerous biodegradation protocols. While OECD (Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development) aquatic assays are suitable for water-borne chemicals, it is crucial for the personal care industry to consider the persistence of plastics in soil, compost, and municipal sludge. Adopting this cradle-to-grave holistic approach would strengthen product appeal while increasing the accuracy and ethical integrity of green product labeling. The aim of our study was to employ quantitative CO2 detection and thermophilic composting protocols specified in ASTM D5338, along with pass level criteria outlined in ASTM D6400, to assess the mineralization of plastics commonly formulated into personal care products. Our results indicate that many cellulose ethers, cationic guars, starches, proteins, and labile polyesters demonstrate satisfactory disintegration, biodegradation, and seed germination rates to secure an ASTM D6400 compostability claim. By contrast, macromolecules designed with carbon–carbon backbones resisted acceptable mineralization in composting experiments, advocating that unadulterated municipal compost lacks the microbial diversity to enzymatically digest many synthetically derived resins. Additionally, polymers that demonstrated acceptable biodegradability in internal and published OECD aquatic studies, including chitosan and polyvinyl alcohol, exhibited limited respiration in local municipal compost; hence, untested correlations between aquatic, soil, and compost testing outcomes should never be assumed.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Collection Editorial Board Members' Collection Series: "Sustainability in Materials and Processes in Cosmetic Science")
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