- From the Test Kitchen
- Season 1
- Episode 180
5 Easy Rice Dishes That Give New Life to Leftovers
Released on 09/26/2023
I'm Chris Morocco
here in the BA Test Kitchen,
and today we're talking about rice -
the kind of leftover rice
you probably have in your fridge right now.
Cooked cooled rice -
every dish's best friend.
It is untapped potential.
You can take it anywhere.
Whatever you do, don't throw it out.
[energetic music]
[percussive music]
So, making rotisserie chicken congee.
Congee goes by other names,
you know, depending on the cuisine.
It's sometimes known as juk, etc.
Just a rice-based porridge.
In the theme of starting with the leftover rice,
let's use a rotisserie chicken
to its fullest potential.
So first things first,
a little aromatic base
just to get this broth on its way.
Scallion, just nice sections.
We don't need perfectly even fine bits.
Slicing our ginger
and then garlic.
Alright, last thing to do
before we can start cooking
is take apart this chicken.
I love rotisserie chicken.
It's overcooked chicken in, like, the best possible way.
This is very firm,
but that meat is tender.
It comes right off the bone.
We're gonna throw the meat
into the porridge itself.
The skin,
like, that's not stuff that's really gonna come back,
but for the broth,
it's really, really good.
Little neutral oil,
just so we can sweat down these aromatics.
Moderate heat.
By softening them slightly in oil,
I'm extracting some of their flavor.
And I really want a very modest amount of water.
I want the chicken to fit below the surface
but I don't want to have to reduce this stock down later.
It's been about 20 minutes.
As you can see,
we were able to extract a lot
from those chicken bones and skin.
It's heavily seasoned to begin with.
This broth is pretty much seasoned and ready to go.
So I'm just straining all those solids out of the broth.
So we can bring this right back over to the stove
with our rice
and we can get this congee cooking.
So by starting with cooked rice,
probably take 15, maybe 20 minutes
to get it to a nice porridge-y consistency.
Oh, yeah.
We're kind of starting to stick to the bottom of the pot,
which tells me it's getting nice and thick.
Oh, it's so good.
It's just kind of the ultimate comfort food.
It's like a warm hug for your mouth.
I don't even know that I need all of this.
Stir it in there.
Just let it warm through.
As it's sitting,
it's kind of setting up,
and I just want a little bit more fluidity to it.
Beautiful.
So I'm putting my scallion and my cilantro on.
Just doing a drizzle of toasted sesame oil.
I like putting it on raw.
It really preserves the aromatics of the sesame.
I've got chili crisp.
Just adds a little pop of texture.
Adds a pop of heat.
And then a little finishing dose of soy.
The soy is obviously giving you
an additional layer of seasoning.
Some toasted sesame seed.
There it is.
Oh my god.
Rotisserie chicken congee.
It's looking good.
Oh my god.
I mean,
it's really good.
It's really good.
Here.
Eat that.
Oh.
I just love the degree
to which we are able to transform a rotisserie chicken,
leftover rice,
into something that feels like it should have taken hours.
[percussive music]
So I'm gonna be making golden fried rice.
This version is gonna be influenced
by Lucas Sin's golden fried rice,
which I had the pleasure of testing a few years ago
when it ran in BA.
It takes the rice
and coats it completely
with just egg yolk,
so you get literally golden fried rice.
I'm kind of looking in the direction of South Asia
and sort of incorporating a tadka aromatic spice base
with the golden fried rice technique
to arrive at something that,
I don't know, it's gonna be an adventure,
but it made sense at the time that, you know, I pitched it.
So here we go.
Garlic, ginger, scallion.
It's relatively fast to prep
and then you are able to cook it in seconds.
About half that scallion for the aromatic mixture.
Some of it I'm just holding on the side
for serving.
We're incorporating the egg yolk
into the rice mixture
and the egg whites are being cooked separately.
So I'm just seasoning the white
and I'm throwing a little bit of oil in there
just so that it cooks up just a little bit softer.
There's no substitute here
for just working this mixture around by hand.
Break those clumps up.
Coat every single grain
in egg yolk.
I just want this pan to be pretty damn hot
before I scramble the whites.
Set them aside.
Just wanna get it in and get it out.
So next step is toasting the spices in ghee.
I don't want quite such insane heat,
because I wanna be mindful
of toasting the spices
but not burning them.
I am going to make a tadka base
which is this blend of spices
that are bloomed in a hot fat.
You can see the mustard seeds popping.
That's a good sign.
Now I'm gonna do chili flake,
a little bit of turmeric.
Turn the heat up
and in we go.
[food sizzling]
We wanna bring the rice back to a place
of being crispy on the outside
but still kind of chewy
and a little bit soft on the inside.
So now that the tadka is all mixed into the rice,
I'll just take a little bit extra ghee,
run it around the outer edge
just so it drips down to the bottom
and forms that nice layer of fat
in between the rice and the skillet.
The rice is gonna start to crisp.
It's heating through.
You wanna just give it a head start
towards that end
by not tossing it all the time,
just letting it develop a little bit of a crust
before you start moving it again.
I'm gonna make a little well,
drop a little more ghee in it,
and I'm gonna fry out my aromatics.
Just wanna soften them.
Don't want them to be straight up raw.
I think we can toss this through now.
Egg white can go back in.
I didn't wanna overcook the egg white.
You saw how fast it cooked,
and I don't want it to get all rubbery.
I'm gonna do a little bit of soy
just for a final seasoning
and also just completing the thought
about the the different influences at work in this dish.
Nice.
Final topper is some more scallion.
And that's it -
golden fried rice.
Mm.
Yeah, I'm into it.
Fried rice is one of the default uses we think of
when it comes to leftover rice.
But a couple key differences here.
Couple tweaks in how this dish came together.
And it's really kind of unexpected
how transformed it is.
[percussive music]
So this use of leftover rice
is turning it into this crunchy, savory element
that's then gonna be used in a salad.
It's gonna be a range of colors, textures, flavors,
but using that crispy savory rice
as this base element.
Crispy tofu rice salad,
like, with all the other dishes,
I could see it,
cook them in my mind,
you know, no problem.
This one is a sort of a hybrid
of crispy rice salad developed by Shilpa.
Hers uses ground chicken.
We're using crispy tofu instead.
Gonna start by cutting up our aromatics.
So we're not gonna be cooking any of them here.
This is gonna be showcasing raw ginger.
I'm gonna do a very thin shred here.
Really helps make sure you get ginger
that's not overly powerful.
I'm gonna slice up the red onion.
Again, this is gonna go in raw.
Thin slices of serrano chili.
We're gonna put our fish sauce
and our sugar in with our chili.
It's gonna be part of our dressing.
And again, we're just tasting
and we're adjusting on the fly.
This is food that you can just sort of feel your way through
when you're cooking.
I like the idea of keeping this vegetarian.
Some people like to press their tofu.
I like just lightly squeezing out
a little bit of the water.
I'm gonna do slightly smaller pieces
because I want them to incorporate into the salad well.
I'm gonna season and toss it with salt
and cornstarch as well.
Cornstarch loves getting crispy,
so it's just gonna give a little bit of texture
to this outer kind of shell of the tofu.
I like this technique of Shilpa's.
She's taking the rice
and she's coating it in the curry paste.
Coating the rice in this mixture
means it's gonna, you know,
be on every single grain
and make sure it suffuses all of the rice.
I wanna go moderately hot.
The tofu just has a lot of moisture in it.
You want an active crispy sear.
I'd say we're somewhere
in the five- to eight-minute range.
The hardest part is not messing with it,
letting it get crispy,
doing its thing.
Alright, so you see we're getting
some really nice lacy crispiness on the outside.
I'm gonna hit it with some of that curry paste
and see if I can get them nice and coated.
And I'm just gonna go ahead
and pull it to the side here.
Now some more oil and rice can go in.
[food sizzling]
So the goal here is crispiness, right?
And to warm the rice through.
You know, we've been at this
maybe getting close to five minutes.
I'd say two to three more minutes
and we should be there.
We're starting to get some nice crispiness.
Color is deepening and intensifying.
So now this is kind of what we're going for -
nice big jagged clumps.
In the theme of,
you know,
make sure all the flavors are kind of dialed up,
you can almost treat the herbs like lettuce.
I've got the cooked rice.
I've got the tofu.
I'm gonna throw in a handful of the red onion,
ginger batons,
peanuts,
a good splash of dressing.
Toss it all together in a bowl
just as a way to easily adjust seasoning.
The rice becomes so dense
with texture and flavor,
and tofu kind of provides a little bit of negative space
and something a little bit soft,
a little bit yielding in there.
So I like serving this,
like, a good handful of lettuce leaves
and you just have a riot of flavor and color.
I just love that.
Shilpa, this is really your dish.
I mean, I just kind of like cooked it
and put tofu in it instead.
It looks really good.
You can kind of fill the lettuce
with this mixture
as you eat it.
I like that you
Yeah? caramelized everything.
I think it would've been too bland otherwise.
You get some crispiness from the rice as well.
There's a lot of texture.
The onions.
There's a lot going on.
The ginger.
To me, the ginger was
the eye-opening. I didn't soak it.
Oh my god.
I was like, Just wait 'til Shilpa hears.
Cancel the show.
Cancel the episode.
That I didn't soak the onion and the ginger.
[Shilpa] No, it's actually really good.
Okay. It's good.
Good job, Christopher.
Yeah? 10/10.
Can cook. [both laugh]
[percussive music]
Chorizo and rice stuffed peppers.
So rice, it kind of does it all.
Rice can almost be breading.
And by breading,
I mean, you know,
the thing you put into your meatballs
or your meatloaf
that isn't meat
and it just kind of breaks up that space.
And often, you know,
in a meatball or in a meatloaf,
you've got breadcrumb,
you've got egg.
You've got these elements that serve to bind
and to lighten the meat mixture.
Rice does very much a similar thing.
Today, for my peppers,
I'm using poblanos and Cubanelles.
Bell pepper would work.
It's a little bit meatier,
a little bit less watery.
The flavor's just a little bit more complex.
Also, I feel like it doesn't collapse
quite as readily as a bell pepper does.
Bell pepper just kind of like,
just kind of wants to, like, loaf on your sofa.
Not today.
Okay, so we're gonna do a little spice mixture here.
Oregano, cumin, coriander,
and then a little bit of smoked paprika -
a savory, smoky backnote.
But if all you did was use chili powder,
a lot of these flavors, already in there.
Spice mix is done.
I'm moving on
to onion and garlic.
Because it's just gonna go into that meat mixture raw,
I wanna dice it fairly fine.
This is fresh chorizo, not cured chorizo,
which means it's got the texture of raw sausage.
It's been seasoned aggressively with chili powder
of one sort or another.
So you could use just any old ground meat in here,
but I'm looking for something that's got some fat,
some richness, some flavor and seasoning of its own.
I'm gonna start out with a moderate amount of rice.
It's gonna help that mixture kind of set in place.
All the spices are going in there.
Just gonna throw in a little bit of oil, too.
I really wanna work this mixture together.
'Cause the sausage is already seasoned,
I don't need to season it
as though it was straight up ground meat,
but we still need a little bit of salt
for all the other ingredients.
Last thing, I'm gonna do a little bit of cilantro,
just for a little fresh balance.
So I'm gonna stuff some of this mixture in
and I really wanna pack it in there.
You can really get quite a bit in there -
as opposed to if you take the top off
and kind of stuff it down in there.
Especially with these longer chilies,
it would be miserable
trying to pack that mixture down in there.
I'm gonna throw it into a 400-degree oven.
Check this in about 25 minutes.
Look at the transformation.
Mixture is cooked.
Rice on top is a little bit crispy.
I thought we'd go a little crazy
and we'd maybe just scatter
a little bit of cheese on top
and then broil it to finish.
So this is a mild cheddar,
a slightly softer,
higher moisture form of cheddar,
because it's got good flavor
with a little bit of sharpness
but it wants to melt
and it wants to take on color.
Broiling is gonna melt this cheese very quickly
and hopefully get a little bit of color on it.
It's like I'm doing this
because the last thing you want to do
is wander off and let all your hard work get screwed up,
you know?
The parchment is starting to burn,
which I probably should have thought of.
But we're just gonna take it a little further
and assume it's not gonna ignite.
The hardest part about playing chicken
is knowing when to flinch.
Alright, that's it. I can't take it.
It smells like a jalapeno popper.
Alright, let's see how we did.
Mm.
The softness of the pepper
to the crispy rice kind of interacting,
it's really good.
Also, just like the subtle heat from the pepper.
There's this unforeseen benefit of the rice,
which is that it can get so crispy.
Breadcrumbs would never quite get that crispy.
The cheese on top, too,
it gives it just that final blast of richness
and savoriness,
just like a little enchilada sauce.
Boom.
So good.
[percussive music]
Mango sticky rice is a really iconic dish.
This kind of gets you to a similar place
in terms of the world of those flavors.
Coconut and mango love each other.
Coconut and rice love each other.
All those things together
just brightened up with a little pop of salt
and a little bit of lime and vanilla,
they're all just great flavors
that mesh really seamlessly.
I'm gonna start off
by setting up one of these mangoes.
Love mango.
I mean, I frigging love mango.
It makes a ripe honeydew
look like frigging open mic night,
you know what I mean?
Just like, Why'd you even show up?
I want the flavor of brown sugar,
but I don't want little bits of undissolved sugar in there.
So I'm just gonna be a little bit extra
and just throw a little water in there
and just dissolve it.
We're just nuking it.
And you see we have this nice brown syrup.
So a little salt in there.
Then I'm gonna throw a little vanilla in there.
A little extract would be totally fine,
but bean is just so nice.
Ah.
It really kind of lifts other flavors up.
A little bit of lime zest.
This is gonna give us
a little bit of brightness of flavor,
but without overt acidity.
So I can just throw the zest right in there.
That's gonna look so good.
Toss this together
and then move on to the rice.
So this dish is very forgiving
of whatever proportions you use.
I'm gonna start with one can of coconut milk
and then I'll do a couple cups of rice.
I can always add a little bit more rice
and I can always add more coconut milk, too.
So I'm gonna do a little bit of vanilla,
scrape these seeds out
so they can infuse fully into the pudding.
Just gonna put in
maybe 1/4 cup of sugar.
Even though it's a sweet dish,
I want a pinch of salt,
just to bring out all the flavors we've got here.
Heat is gonna extract a little bit more of the flavors.
It's gonna allow that sort of starchy consistency
of the rice
to meld a little bit with the coconut milk.
Alright, so it's really just been five minutes,
but you can tell how much the rice has now melded
with the coconut milk.
Its consistency,
it's starting to set up even as it cools.
You want that creaminess.
The mango's been macerating.
It's exuded a little bit extra liquid.
And there you go -
coconut rice pudding with mango.
Alright.
Hmm.
It's got that sweet, savory aspect
and yet it still comes off reading as dessert.
The lightness is also what's so interesting, too,
'cause the rice,
as far as pudding-like consistencies goes,
it's relatively light.
It's there and then it disappears
and you just want another bite.
So there it is -
five simple dishes,
all star leftover rice,
and just incorporating so many different fun elements,
from sweet to savory,
taking it to this bold, beautiful, flavor-filled place.
[Crew member 1] Great. We forgot the rice!
[Crew member 2] We forgot the rice!
Oh, no.
[Bleeping]
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