Years ago chef John Yelinek accidentally left a batch of sweet potatoes baking in the back of a hot oven. Now this is his favorite way of getting crispy, charred skins and custardy interiors. At Ladder 4 Wine Bar in Detroit, MI—one of our Best New Restaurants of 2023—the soft sweet potatoes serve as a base for spiced seeds and heaps of cheese.
At home, a moderate hour-long roast gets the job done (but if you happen to “forget” about them for another hour, all the better). Scrub, but don’t pierce—and definitely don’t peel—the sweet potato skins; they act as an incubator, allowing the insides to transform from rock hard to yieldingly gooey.
The pumpkin seed dukkah is meant to act as a savory granola. Keep it coarse and barely broken down for optimal textural contrast. To switch things up, use a soft cheese like Taleggio or stracciatella (as they do at the restaurant) in place of the triple-cream.
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What you’ll need
Chile-Lime Seasoning
$3 At Amazon
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Food Processor
$63 At Amazon
Rimmed Baking Sheet
$26 At Amazon
Small Skillet
$23 At Amazon
Platter
$40 $30 At Amazon
Recipe information
Total Time
1 hour 10 minutes
Yield
4 servings
Ingredients
2
1
1
1
½
2
2
1
1
1
6
2
1
Preparation
Step 1
Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 450°. Roast 2 lb. medium sweet potatoes (about 6), scrubbed, on a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet until very tender, 60–70 minutes.
Step 2
Meanwhile, toast 1 Tbsp. coriander seeds, 1 tsp. cumin seeds, and 1 tsp. fennel seeds in a dry small skillet over medium heat, shaking pan often, until fragrant and slightly darkened, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a small food processor and pulse until seeds are very coarsely ground (you can also do this with a mortar and pestle).
Step 3
Toast ½ cup raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas) in same skillet over medium heat, shaking pan often, until slightly darkened and starting to pop, about 4 minutes. Transfer to food processor and pulse until pumpkin seeds are very coarsely ground. Transfer seed mixture to a medium bowl and add 2 tsp. raw sugar, 2 tsp. smoked paprika, 1 tsp. chile-lime seasoning, 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt. Mix dukkah to combine.
Step 4
Transfer sweet potatoes to a platter, split lengthwise with a small knife, and open up like a book. Using a fork, lightly mash flesh, making sure to keep skins intact; season lightly with kosher salt. Dot evenly with 6 oz. triple-cream cheese, room temperature, cut into 1" pieces (it will begin to melt). Stir 2 Tbsp. pomegranate molasses and 1 tsp. sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar in a small bowl; drizzle over potatoes. Spoon dukkah over (use all of it), top with torn tender herbs (such as parsley, dill, and/or cilantro), and drizzle with oil. Season with flaky sea salt.
Do Ahead: Dukkah can be made 1 week ahead. Store airtight at room temperature. Stir to break up any clumps before using.