Simone Rocha delivers sheer, unadulterated escapism in new collection

Gilt brocades that remind you of visits to foreign palaces, layers of white borderie anglaise reminiscent of cool choices for hot days under the French sun and there’s even a little castle in the mix, embroidered on whisper- light tulle coats worn over a deep cuffed trousers in toile de jouy fabric.

Simone turned 34 last week. She is a young woman with a burgeoning business and her own shops in London, New York and Hong Kong . However, Simone designs with a maturity way beyond her years and a passion that extends beyond retail certainties that will sell.

“For me, it’s always been people’s feelings about my clothes that’s important,” Simone explained to the press at her London Fashion Week SS21 showcase of 29 looks.

The Dublin-born designer has always been one for a great runway show. Over the years, she has kindly treated us to mesmerisingly beautiful shows in London Palaces, churches and Victorian theatre where we’ve witnessed her evolving silhouettes and magical ways with fabric, and how you might wear it.

Last Saturday , Simone unveiled her vision for SS21 at the Hauser & Wirth gallery in Saville Row, in the heart of London’s tailoring district .

The simple white setting was ideal to show off the lavish and beautiful fabrics she chose to work with, from decadent brocades fashioned into dresses and into one coat featuring the additional overlay of a corset dress adding a trompe l’oeil effect. There were bejeweled bosoms and personal touches like SR monogrammed onto lace.

A simple panelled dress in cream canvas held its architectural shape beautifully with exaggerated silhouette over the hips and then the drama added with a neckline and pockets trimmed with pearl and crystal stones.

Guests arrived by appointment and it an opportunity to see the clothes up close.

New this season is the narrowed draped cape that falls from the shoulders and follows the body contours closely. It is a ’cocoon’ rather a ‘swagger’ cape. It looked wonderful in black and the white version will surely find favour with brides.

Simone weaves a very textural story with crystal crocheted bralets which sit over garments adding a thoroughly exciting 3D quality. There is sustained focus on breasts and they are outlined with beads on several looks.

Artist Kesewa Aboah was one of her shoot models along with royal ballet dancer, Francesca Hayward, and the singer, Celeste.

Like her father before her, Simone knows to double down on what works so she breathed new life into her very personal take on volume, lavish use of pearls and enthralling shoes and bags.

Her signature, over-sized pearl egg bag is in the mix again next season along with crystal orbs.

The SS21 colour palette included matte-blacks lifted with the gleam of crystal beads or additional pearls. There were dark inky blues executed in a bias cut, knot front dress, a go-anywhere off the shoulder puffball dress.

Simone explained how she wanted her clothes to represent the escapism that we’re all craving and also wanted them to give the body a sense of security.”

She told Vogue magazine that lockdown had given her an opportunity to look at how she wanted to do things and what was important to her.

Simone achieved that quality of escapism by including an "embroidered castle from a faraway place" and then enhanced the fashion fairy tale by adding delicate green beading to echo the curves of a woman's breast.

One compelling aspect this season was the decorative body armour. In her show notes, the designer spoke of "looking for comfort and security in the extreme" and the armour wraps around her signature use of beading while generous bows wrapped up looks for added comfort.

A short top with scalloped end and ample puff sleeves was delicately hand crafted and executed in pearls and crystals in a grid like formation.

Worn over a plain white shirt and ruffle trimmed skirt, the three dimensional effect was captivating.

A matte-black tailored coat was offset by a confection of shimmering jet beads, a favourite touch in the Victorian era which Simone has brought to the forefront and made modern.

Pretty orb bags sat into crocheted crystal bags which looked like they were inspired by the simple string shopping bag of old but move onto a completely different level of luxury.

Her shoes were wedged and platform, not ugly but ergonomic and with the aim, the designer explained of bringing "energy and pace."

Fans of Simone's faded blue and white embroidered tulles which were inspired by the china plates in the Irish big houses that her wren boys visited in her SS20 collection can look forward to a similar repeat motif but this time, the embroidered, scalloped tuiles come in black and white and also in red and white.