Sweet wines to try with a chocolate treat

There is a perception among many wine drinkers that they don’t like sweet wines, but the popularity of Dada, Apothic, 19 Crimes and their many imitators shows there are enough fans of these medium-sweet red wines to make it a lucrative commercial category.

These tend to have between 10-20g of residual sugar per litre; anything above 35g/l RS is considered a sweet wine. These sweetish reds are often attractive to newbies to wine drinking, whose palates can find the astringent tannins of dry red wines hard going, especially if drinking without the softening influence of salty, protein-rich foods. Higher sugar levels build body, round out acidity and soften tannins, making the wines more approachable.

On the other hand, many wine professionals like me tend to avoid these medium-sweet red styles — though we get to taste enough of them at wine tastings, where they show up increasingly in cheaper commercial wines.

Personally, I don’t have a very sweet tooth — I might enjoy a Coca-Cola once or twice a year, generally after a big night when it offers a quick pick-me-up. Paradoxically, I love properly sweet wines, such as today’s recommendations — a tawny port, Madeira and vin de liqueur — which all contain over 100g/l RS, but are complex and layered.

It was interesting then to taste three Apothic Wines (16g/l RS) with some paired chocolate. On their own, the residual sugar was obvious though not cloying; the Apothic Red blend tasted the most balanced and drinkable, thanks to higher acidity and perhaps the complexity of being a blend of grapes. The others were still drinkable, but had less going on of interest to my palate.

Tasted with the chocolate, however, the Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon both improved dramatically. The sweetness of the chocolate desensitised my palate to the wines’ sweetness, allowing other aspects to shine.

This is what happens when you pair a sticky sweet dessert wine, port or similar sweet wines with sweet desserts or chocolate: the sweetness is neutralised and allows complexity to shine. Balance is the key to good winemaking — but it’s useful to remember that if the wine doesn’t taste balanced, the answer might be to just add chocolate.

Wines of the week

Warre’s Otima 10-Year-Old Tawny, Porto, Portugal, 20pc, €25.95 (50cl), 113g/l RS Coming in a presentation tube, this would make a smart gift paired with your choice of chocolate (Terry’s Chocolate Orange, milk chocolate with caramel or praline all work well). Served slightly chilled to temper its sweetness, it is rich and opulent with notes of dried fig and orange zest, brazil nuts and fudge and some warming spice from the alcohol. It is ready to drink without decanting and will last well once opened. The Wine Centre Kilkenny, O’Briens Wines, Molloy’s, Sweeney’s D3, Martins, Pinto, Whelehans Wines, Jus de Vine, wineonline.ie

Apothic Cab, California, 13.5pc, €15, 16g/l RS Big bold Californian Cabernet with a touch of Zinfandel, this is full-bodied with smooth tannins, lots of sweet vanilla spice and jammy blackcurrant and plummy fruits, and works surprisingly well with salted caramel and milk chocolate. Dunnes, Tesco, SuperValu, Molloy’s, Carryout and independents

Chateau du Cedre Sweet Malbec, Cahors, France, 17pc, €28.95 (50cl) 100g/l RS A fortified vin de liqueur from organic Malbec grapes grown in high terraces, where alluvial soils deliver great richness. Barrel-aged for 12 months, beautifully balanced, rich with dark fruits, ideal with dark chocolate. Redmonds, 64 Wines, JJ O’Driscoll, The Grainstore Ballymaloe, L’Atitude 51, lecaveau.ie

Rinforzo Salento Primitivo IGT 2020, Puglia, Italy, 14pc, €18.95, 22g/l RS A semi-sweet red made from semi-dried grapes with dried fruit, chocolate and subtle vanilla aromas, its opulent sweetness balanced by good acidity and bright fruit character (think tangy blackcurrant and plums). Pair with fruit and nut or black forest gateau. From €23.95 until April 14. O’Briens Wine; obrienswine.ie

Justino’s Madeira Five-Year-Old Fine Rich Reserve NV, 19pc, €33.95, 107.3g/l RS Madeira is heated at up to 50C for three months in between fortification and cask ageing, making it a stable product that will keep for years after opening. Delicious, with rich rum and raisin chocolate character balanced by a salty bite that cuts through the sweetness. Bradleys, The Corkscrew, Red Island Wine Co, Red Nose Wine, wineonline.ie