Ranging from oaked to crispy, there’s a Chardonnay to suit all tastes

Winemakers have made subtle changes to this long-standing gem to deal with the millennial backlash

Great-tasting Chardonnays from France, Australia, South Africa and California

Aoife Carrigy

Tomorrow is World Chardonnay Day. As with Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc, which had their own international days recently, this ubiquitous white wine grape variety has dominated international wine sales for decades. It can be tough at the top, however.

This most variable and versatile of grapes has garnered some deeply committed critics along with its devoted fans. The critics are largely thanks to an ocean of over-oaked Chardonnay that flowed up from Down Under from the 1980s, and sunnier corners of California. Given how productive the variety is, cheap Chardonnay is as easy to make as it once was to sell — at least until fashion turned fickle.