Go Greek for a rare or vibrant autumnal red

With 300 local grapes, Greece is worth exploring for both easy drinkers and complexity

Aoife Carrigy's pick of gorgeous Greek reds

Aoife Carrigy

Last week’s column explored the rewards of unusual indigenous grapes, following the previous week’s spotlight of Greece’s expressive, often elegant, white wines. Today we pick up both themes, exploring Greece’s red wines, including a rare variety recently saved from extinction.

Of Greece’s 300 local grapes, the royalty of red wines is Xinomavro, a finicky grape that delivers finely structured, age-worthy reds in the right conditions. ‘Mavro’ means black and ‘xino’ sour, hinting at its bright acidity and lifted structure. Xinomavro’s nuanced complexity develops with ageing, often with notes of tomato leaf and olive tapenade.