To receive the Vogue Business newsletter, sign up here.
By the time she smells a third perfume, 34-year old Helen Ellis’s head is beginning to pound. Already overwhelmed by the noise and bright lights in the busy store, the addition of scent is too much. Helen was diagnosed with autism more than a decade ago, placing her among the estimated 15 per cent of the UK population who are neurodivergent. That means she is more likely to experience sensory overload, a state where one or more senses are overwhelmed, leading to stress, discomfort and anxiety.
For retailers eager to entice consumers back to physical shopping, every little helps. Responding to the concerns of a significant percentage of consumers who find shopping an uncomfortable or even distressing experience could be part of that process. And in a world where brands and retailers are ready and willing to be more inclusive, it also makes sense.
The problem is that experiential retail is the new post-lockdown trend and it often deliberately seeks to cultivate and step up multi-sensory design, particularly if targeting Gen Z shoppers.
The beauty counters are a particular issue for neurodivergent consumers. Helen describes shopping for a fragrance as “really tricky”, while the threat of sensory overload has a wider impact on her shopping experience. “It’s always at the back of my mind that I may need to abandon my visit to a store at any point if I get overwhelmed,” she says. It can even impact her ability to travel home safely. Charlie Hancock, a student who is autistic, says she “runs through” the make-up departments of stores, describing them as a “sensory minefield”.
Sensory stimulation is a common retail strategy. Beyond the obvious benefits inherent in the beauty and fragrance retail space, some fashion retailers have found that introducing scent into stores can increase shopper intent to purchase, including Nike, which says this boosted intent by up to 80 per cent. In the 2000s, Abercrombie & Fitch famously enjoyed a surge in popularity with young shoppers when it redesigned its stores with auditory overload — volumes of 88 decibels were recorded inside its nightclub-style interiors.
None of this is good news for neurodivergent shoppers, as sensory stimulation can easily slip into distressing sensory overload. Nora Nord, who has ADHD, cites sound as a primary trigger for sensory overload – “I can’t stand the shops that play really loud music”.
Responding to neurodiversity
Some store environments have changed, recognising the need for inclusivity. Abercrombie & Fitch has long since turned down the volume, by around 50 per cent, according to a spokesperson. “Across our brands, we are highly focused on our customers and we put them at the centre of everything we do, including updating our store atmosphere over the years to create a more inclusive and welcoming shopping experience.”
Lieve Douce, a professor at Hasselt University has researched sensory overload in shopping environments, studying the use and potential drawbacks of sensory stimulation as a retail strategy. “Firms including Starbucks, Ikea and Lush have achieved substantial competitive advantage via the creation of a more multisensory customer experience,” she notes. “However, introducing more cues into a store environment may trigger sensory overload, which can affect consumer reactions negatively.”
Achieving the right kind of balance is, Douce says, a particular challenge for beauty and fragrance stores. Mitigating measures can be put in place to limit the negative impact of sensory triggers on neurodivergent consumers. For perfume, more accurate product descriptions can limit the need to trial fragrances in store. Luisa, a perfumer at Avenoir Perfumery, advises explaining notes in the simplest possible way – in the US, they might involve avoiding French terms such as fougère (one of the olfactory families). For Luisa, who has dyslexia and dyspraxia, difficult-to-understand descriptions are unhelpful. “To neurodivergent people, ambiguity is the worst thing,” she says.
Many retailers are already rethinking their spaces to make them more accessible for neurodivergent people. Estée Lauder has appointed external agencies to audit stores to explore improvements for greater inclusivity in the UK. A scheme titled the Hidden Disabilities Sunflower lanyard scheme, launched in the UK and extended to Canada, the US, Australia and New Zealand, supports customers with hidden disabilities, including neurodiversity, by discreetly signalling that the wearer may need additional support. Stores supply the lanyards, which customers can keep, with customisable cards showing sensitivity to smell, light or sound. The scheme encourages brands to “introduce a sensory-friendly hour: dim lights, reduce scents, switch off music” as well as offering “bookable consultations, away from the perfume section,” explains Monica Rastogi, Estée Lauder’s UK director of corporate cultural relevancy, inclusion and diversity. “Neurodivergent customers often have needs that make the typical consumer experience inappropriate for them, and it is the responsibility of businesses like ours to create an environment that is accessible for all.”
Online guides about in-store experiences are also effective, says Tony Lloyd, CEO of the UK’s ADHD Foundation: “This might include explaining that there may be loud or unexpected noises, bright and flashing lights, busy or crowded areas, [or] strong smells.” He also echoes the calls for quiet hours, noting that these times need to be varied across the week to offer flexibility for neurodivergent customers.
The UK’s National Autistic Society has sought to lead the way with an annual Autism Hour, encouraging stores to limit sensory stimulation while educating staff about autism. The project has stalled during the pandemic, but Tom Purser, head of guidance, volunteering and campaigns, says retailers can help their neurodivergent customers with very simple adjustments. “It could be as simple as... turning down music or dimming the lights of bright makeup counters.”
Comments, questions or feedback? Email us at feedback@voguebusiness.com.
How fashion can embrace neurodiversity