If you’ve found yourself coveting a Rolex Datejust or Cartier Tank, inspired by the likes of Grace Kelly and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, you won’t be surprised to hear that the preloved luxury fashion boom is also boosting sales of vintage and preowned watches. In fact, the market is now estimated to be worth a staggering £23 billion, driven by a desire for uniqueness and better value for money. But what styles should a vintage watch layman be investing in now?
One first, need-to-know fact: there’s a difference between preowned and vintage. While the timelines that distinguish the two classifications may vary, most experts recognise any watches 25 years and older as “vintage”, while younger models are considered a “modern preowned” watch.
Daniel Somlo, director of Somlo London in Burlington Arcade, deals exclusively in vintage watches, which he describes as anything pre-1970s. He usually has upwards of 200 watches on display in his shop, which is something of a buyer’s paradise. “One of the best things about vintage watches is the variety and access,” he says. “With vintage, there are no waiting lists, there are no hoops to jump through and there are no previous purchase requirements you have to meet in order to qualify.” How quick are we talking? “If you find what you like, you can walk in and buy it.”
Other practical perks of buying vintage and certified preowned (CPO) include the quality and value. Many watches made half a century ago or more demonstrate exceptional levels of handcraftsmanship that came in small batches only, meaning you’re unlikely to spy someone else wearing your watch. Plus, there are still bargains to be had, if you know where to look.
“Prices vary enormously in the preowned realm,” says Pierre Hardouin, certified preowned manager of Bucherer in the UK. At any given time, shoppers can find between 30 and 300 CPO and vintage watches to try on depending on the Bucherer store. “The price of a watch depends on many factors, including the metal, the style, the brand, the year. But for an entry-price-point vintage Cartier Tank you are looking at an opening price of £2,000 – it would cost around £3,000 new – and a Rolex Datejust could be yours for about £4,500.”
It’s the stories behind vintage watches that inspire Carlotta Parmegiani, collector and head of public relations at Monaco Legend Group auction house. “If you look at the time these watches were made, whatever was happening in the world defines why they exist. The watch reflects the trends of that era, the culture and more,” she says. “They bring so much more depth to your collection.” The vintage style that’s seeing a surge in interest now? The dainty, bejewelled art deco Audemars Piguet watches from the Roaring Twenties that embody the glamour and geometric precision of the period.
Samantha Haizelden, a British collector with more than 17 years of experience, agrees. A chapter head for her local RedBar group, a global community of watch aficionados, she also runs Watch Concierge Services, which sources rare pieces. “It is so much more fun to buy a certified preowned or vintage watch – they exude charm,” Haizelden says.
As with any big investment purchase, it pays to do your research. Sweden-based watch collector Lydia Winters, who has been collecting for 10 years and co-hosts a podcast called This Watch Life, notes that social media can offer online practical tips and analysis. Vogue recommends Hodinkee podcasts, Instagram accounts including @WatchBrothersLondon and @Justinhast, as well as TikToker Mike Nouveau, who is an experienced vintage dealer.
When it comes to making your purchase, where you browse and buy a vintage (or CPO) watch matters. Crucially, always try to see the watch in person before investing, says Ben Staniforth, UK country manager for Watchfinder & Co, an online preowned platform that also has six standalone boutiques in the UK. “When you try on a watch, you feel the weight, the way it sits on the wrist and the quality. You either fall in love with it or it doesn’t feel right. You can look at all the pictures in the world, but you have to feel it,” says Staniforth.
Vintage watches are available in retail stores that not only sell new watches but also have heritage departments, as well as online platforms, auction houses and local stores that specialise in preowned timepieces. These establishments typically inspect, authenticate and service the watches before selling them – sometimes they even provide a warranty. Yes, you can buy preowned watches at the local pawn shop or random antique stores, but they are rarely inspected and serviced.
As for what to buy, it’s worth thinking beyond the bestsellers. Open your mind to smaller, lesser-known brands (such as Gérald Genta) and overlooked styles (Vogue editors love Rolex King Midas watches), as well as unconventional shapes or colours. “We’re seeing interest in Cartier, which had some great shaped watches in the 1970s that haven’t been repeated,” says Somlo. Good design stands the test of time and, you never know, you may spot a piece that surges in value. Or, as Haizelden puts it, “If you’re brave enough to dip your toe into the market, you could be rewarded...” Case in point: the recent price spike for the asymmetrical, Dalí-esque Cartier Crash. Last September at Sotheby’s, a yellow-gold model sold for £150,000, some 50 per cent more than its estimate.