Diamond Crystal vs. Morton Kosher Salt—What's the Difference?

If you, like me, grew up with a shaker of iodized salt that was used for cooking, baking, and seasoning tableside, you may find the current array of salt choices dizzying. Since attending culinary school, working in a restaurant, and becoming a food writer, I’ve embraced many new forms of salt. (They say variety is the spice of life, but I’m putting in a vote for “salt,” instead.) You probably have a few different kinds kicking around in your pantry, too. But are you up to date on the raging “Diamond vs. Morton” kosher salt debate? 

There’s a general consensus among pro cooks that Diamond Crystal salt is superior to Morton. In fact, it’s gone so far that most cookbook authors specifically call out their salt of choice in the recipe notes. (I’ll note here that Eric Kim is a rare exception to the masses, as he notes a preference for Morton kosher salt in his cookbook, Korean American). But do you, the home cook, need to worry about which kosher salt you’re using? To get the facts, I spoke with Rishon Hanners, a professional recipe developer and food stylist.

What Is Kosher Salt?

Okay, the brass tacks: How is kosher salt different from all the other salts in the world? Says Hanners, “Kosher salt is a coarse grain, additive-free sea salt primarily used in cooking versus a fine grain salt like table salt or iodized salt.” Ever wondered why it’s called kosher salt? Hanners has an answer for that, too: “It is not usually kosher in the Jewish orthodox sense, but the name does come from the act of koshering meat, in which the salt draws blood out of meat.”

Hanners explains that kosher is the ideal salt to use for cooking, seasoning, and brining, whereas table or iodized salt is at times preferred for baking (it has a more consistent texture). She notes that table salt also typically contains an anti-caking agent, which not all cooks or bakers may want, and recommends fine sea salt, instead. 

Finally, there’s finishing or flaky salt, which is used to pep up a plated dish or baked good, like a steak or chocolate chip cookies. UK-based Maldon is one of the most popular flaky salt brands, and I’ll admit here that I buy a giant tub of Maldon one or two times a year and use that for every single salt-related task in my kitchen. It seems like a ridiculous extravagance, but really, I’m too lazy to buy and store multiple kinds. Anyway! Onto the salty matter at hand…

How Much Salt to Add to Pasta Water

What’s the Difference Between Diamond and Morton Kosher Salt?

“Morton kosher salt is more salty in flavor and a more dense, coarse, and a larger flake,” says Hanners. “Diamond is a lighter flake and the grain, while still coarse, is more fine than Morton so it distributes more evenly which sticks to food nicely and also dissolves more efficiently.”

But are the pro cooks right? Hanners herself admits she’s a “Diamond girl, all the way,” but says one brand isn’t better or worse than the other: “Salt is great and necessary to cook flavorful food, so at the end of the day as long as you are seasoning your food it doesn’t matter which you use.”

Can You Substitute Morton and Diamond Kosher Salt?

“It’s best to be knowledgeable about what salt you are using and for what application, but a lot of professionals swear by Diamond,” says Hanners, which means you may need to do a little math if you don’t have the “right” salt on hand. Here’s the breakdown of how to substitute Morton and Diamond, according to Hanners:

“If a recipe calls for Diamond and you have Morton: Decrease the volume by 25%.

If a recipe calls for Morton (which it likely won’t) and you have Diamond: You can increase volume by 25% or plan to taste as you go and increase salt as desired. If cooking a protein you can always add a finishing salt after cooking if desired.”