Deli-Style Half Sour Pickles

Anywhere I travel, I search out a Jewish deli; but not for a bowl of steaming matzo ball soup. I go for the bottomless pickle plate, piled high with pickled tomatoes, full-sour pickles, and my favorite, the bright green half-sour pickle. I love salt-brined pickles so much that I eat one every morning as an 11 am snack.

What Are Half-Sour Pickles?

Half sour pickles are a deli staple made using a salt-based brine and a partial fermentation process for their distinctive sour flavor, without the use of vinegar. Half sour pickles have a mild tang and pleasing saltiness, and retain their bright green appearance. Full sour pickles are made the same way, but are left to ferment for a longer time (often six to eight weeks), making them stronger in flavor with a less vibrant hue.

Are Half Sour Pickles the Same as Dill Pickles?

Sour pickles are made differently than dill pickles, which use vinegar to preserve the cucumbers. Sour pickles use the process of lacto-fermentation to preserve, which requires time to ferment.

How Are Half-Sours Made?

Half sours work by way of lacto-fermentation, a method of food preservation that uses lactic acid-producing bacteria to preserve food. The naturally occurring bacteria breaks down sugars in the food, forming lactic acid and carbon dioxide. This removes oxygen (which can cause spoilage) and makes the food acidic. The process of fermenting at home couldn’t be simpler—with just a few simple steps, you can sit back and let the bacteria do the hard work.

Lacto-Fermented Carrots

Our current, modern methods of preserving, like the refrigerator or freezer, are relatively new means of keeping food fresh. In the past, short growing seasons and long winters meant that only a few hearty root vegetables (like potatoes) could be stored during the off season, while other produce items would spoil before being eaten. 

Preservation was necessary to not only prevent malnutrition, but to add excitement and flavor to dishes all year round. Pickling was one of the first ways that people would preserve their food, using a salt-based brine and the process of lacto-fermentation, which inhibited the growth of dangerous bacteria. Pickled vegetables were a staple food in the European Jewish diet, where they could preserve the season’s bounty, and store it in cellars to ferment. 

What’s That White Stuff on Top of My Jar of Pickles?

At-home fermentation can feel intimidating, with many variables out of your control. One instance that can spook aspiring picklers is the presence of kahm yeast, or the white, cloudy substance that you may find in your home-pickled goods. Despite the off-putting appearance, Kahm yeast is edible, however, it may alter the taste of your pickles. If you aren’t sure, give it a quick sniff test. If it smells off, it is likely best to start over again. When it comes to fermenting, when in doubt, throw it out.

If you do take the plunge into pickling, I promise it will be worth it. The fresh, salty flavor of these pickles is great served alongside a rich, fatty pastrami sandwich, as a palate cleanser, or straight out of the jar as a snack. 

Tips for Making Half-Sour Pickles

• What cucumbers to use—Pickles are best made with specific “pickling” cucumbers, not your average English or field snacking cucumber. The difference lies with the thickness of the skin, and size of seeds. When choosing cucumbers, pickling or “kirby” cucumbers are the best. Look for cucumbers that are small, have no visible imperfections or bruising, are firm, and have thin skins. Fresh cucumbers make crispy pickles, so try to get your cucumbers from your local farmer’s market.
• How to get the crispest pickles—For crisp pickles, trim the blossom end off the cucumber, removing approximately 1/16-inch. This end contains an enzyme that can soften the cucumber over time. To find the blossom end, look for the end opposite the protruding stem. You can also purchase crisping salts if you prefer, or add 1 grape leaf to each jar.
• What kind of salt to use—When it comes to salt, kosher salt is traditional, but this recipe works well with sea salt. Do not use iodized table salt.
• How to sanitize your jars—To sanitize the jars, add the jars and lids to a large pot and cover with hot water. Cover, and bring to a boil, for 15 minutes. Turn off the heat, and let the jars sit in the hot water. Before using, the the jars completely.
• How will I know when they are ready?—Pickles are personal! The best way to determine if your pickles are ready to eat is by tasting them, and fermenting them to your personal preference.
• Bitterness in cucumber skins—If the pickle skin tastes bitter after 4 or 5 days, continue to brine in the refrigerator for an additional 6 to 7 days. Over time, the bitterness should disappear.