It’s one of Manchester’s most eagerly awaited restaurant openings and this week, Skof by Tom Barnes will finally open in the city centre.
Located in the middle of the NOMA district in Manchester city centre, the restaurant has taken over part of the terracotta-tiled Hanover building which was built by the Co-operative Wholesale Society as a drapery. Today, it is home to Barnes’ ‘unpretentious yet ambitious’ debut dining experience.
The Roux Scholar hailing from Barrow-in-Furness has spent years preparing for this moment, working alongside some of the world’s best chefs. For over a decade he honed his skills at Simon Rogan’s acclaimed restaurants, notably as head chef at Rogan & Co when it received a Michelin star, and as Executive Chef at the acclaimed L’Enclume when it took home a third star.
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His culinary journey began much earlier though. Aged 18 he began working at the two-Michelin-starred Vineyard at Stockcross under chef John Campbell. Following this, he picked up more experience as part of the brigade in lauded restaurants including The Square under Phil Howard and Geranium in Copenhagen under the renowned Rasmus Kofoed.
First announced in November, a key driver of the chef’s Manchester restaurant is to remove some of the preconceptions around fine dining by bringing an element of ‘surprise and joy’ to guests. From the design to the delivery of the farm-to-table menus, every detail has been carefully considered in this respect.
And as the team at Skof say: “There are no conventions, no dress codes - just great food and great vibes in a casual and beautiful space, much like the city we’ve chosen as our home.”
Designed by London-based studio Blacksheep, interiors at Skof draw on a number of influences. While the historic building provides the industrial backdrop, the room, which is bathed in natural light, also references the chef’s Cumbrian upbringing.
Walk through the restaurant off of Hanover Street and you’ll immediately notice the open kitchen busy with chef’s prepping for the meal ahead. The dining space, with its industrial brick and cream tiles is softened by warm lighting, dried flowers and a natural colour palette of calming greens and sumptuous browns.
Every seat in the house gives diners a view onto the kitchen, whether it’s the curved banquettes enveloped by large windows or in the centre of the room looking outwards. Guests are also offered the opportunity to sit up at the pass and watch the action unfold as part of the dining experience.
As Tom explained to the Manchester Evening News earlier this year, the name, Skof, has also been carefully considered. “It’s a very Northern word really,” he revealed.
“It was the sort of thing my dad used to say when I was younger or complaining, ‘just skof it’, but it’s also Edwardian slang for food.”
The offer at Skof will encompass a selection of tastings menus, from the £50 lunch option spanning four courses, to the 12-course option priced at £120 and the slightly longer 15-course taster for £165.
Each is guided by seasonality, locality and the best possible produce, but it is the team’s skill, precision and care that will set it apart. Tom and the team have worked with small-scale suppliers including Cinderwood Market Garden and Lake District Farmers to bring the produce to people’s plates.
“The biggest inspiration is the ingredients and what we can get our hands on from the local area,” added Tom. We’ll be working with Simon’s farm too as he’s kindly letting me use produce from there, as well as suppliers and producers from the North West.”
As a taste of what’s to come, diners booking into Skof in the coming weeks can expect dishes such as Dexter beef bavette with pickled artichoke, black pepper and grilled sprouting broccoli; Orkney scallops with spring vegetables, fried oyster and dulse seaweed; and roasted Sladesdown duck with fig leaf, ibis celeriac and a mini loaf of wholemeal bread stuffed with a surprise element.
On the sweeter side, there’s a refreshing amazake sorbet with milk oolong tea; Our Farm’ strawberries with jasmine cream, rose geranium and caramelised white chocolate; and Manchester honey ice cream with floral herbs, chamomile sponge and aerated milk. In a special tribute to Tom’s dad, tiramisu also features across the menus.
The drinks side has also been curated with a lot of thought. While there are wine pairings. Tom is not a big drinker, and so special consideration has also been taken in terms of a non-alcoholic pairing, and a mixed pairing too. Diners can also sample Sidney, a special beer made in collaboration with Track brewery, a light and refreshing way to start the meal.
The chef, his brigade and the entire Skof team have been working non-stop behind the scenes to bring the exciting restaurant concept to life. It’s meant a lot of long nights, late shifts and practice runs, but no doubt it will be one to watch over the next 12 months as prestigious food guides and awards formulate and consider next year’s new entrants.
“I’m aiming to do the best food I possibly can and I’ve had some of the best training, worked with some incredible chefs in the world,” reflected Tom. “I’ll take all that and put it into Skof to create something really special.”
Skof will open in Manchester on Wednesday, 29 May. The restaurant is located at 3 Hanover St, Federation St, Manchester M4 4BF and bookings can be made via the restaurant’s website.
