Vienna like a local – ‘Where do you get the best cake? At your granny’s, right?’

In the Austrian capital’s lesser-known neighbourhoods, the past meets the present and family businesses reign supreme

The Ferris wheel in Prater Park, where a famous scene from The Third Man was filmed. Photograph: WienTourismus/Christian Stemper

Domhnall O'Donoghue

Social etiquette insists that asking someone their age is inelegant.

However, as servers in a charming Viennese café festoon my table with traditional delicacies like pickled herrings and Schwarzbrot, my curiosity overwhelms me.