Perfect Puglia – our restaurant critic’s tips for swims, eats and exploring off-radar Italy

From local restaurants and supermarkets to little-known beaches and towns off the tourist trail, our restaurant critic shares her authentic experience of this region in Southern Italy

The Torre dell’Orso coastline in Puglia, Italy. Photo: Getty Images

Katy McGuinness

In late May, Puglia was gearing up for the summer onslaught ahead, when temperatures rise and towns that are manageable in shoulder season become unpleasantly thronged. If you’ve seen photos of the influencer hell that is Monopoli in July or Polignano a Mare in August — both undoubtedly much more pleasant when less busy — you may have been put off Puglia completely.

Determined to avoid the crowds, we headed south to Salento in the heel of Italy, in search of baroque architecture, empty beaches and delicious food.