Taking the ferry to Cherbourg? Consider a city break and France’s northern beaches before you drive south

After yet another heatwave hit the south of France last August - breaking more than a hundred temperature records - France's tourism authorities indicated a subtle yet significant shift in travel patterns.

Data from polls and occupancy rates for hotels indicated that the northern parts of France — where temperatures were cooler — have increased while southern territories experiencing heatwaves had seen a drop in visitors.

For Irish holidaymakers who take their car or camper to France, could it make sense to swap the days of exhausting drives to the south for the allure of northern France?

I travelled with Stena Line from Rosslare to Cherbourg last month, and it really opened my eyes. One area that could be about to capitalise on the new trend is the Cotentin Peninsula, which has much to offer within a two-hour drive from the port.

Cherbourg often serves as a mere transit point for travellers, yet the city is a destination worthy of exploration itself.

A vibrant port city, it offers a myriad of attractions and culinary delights.

Cherbourg’s ties to French naval history and transatlantic voyages add a layer of intrigue, notably marked by the poignant stopover of the Titanic on its ill-fated journey.

At the heart of the city is lies the Cité de la Mer, its huge Art Deco ferry terminal built in 1933. The building is a captivating testament to its maritime legacy, as well as the gritty nature of its people, who toiled to restore the building after it was completely destroyed by the German Army in 1944.

Nowadays, Cité de la Mer hosts a fantastic aquarium featuring all aspects of sea life and a fascinating Titanic Museum.

For many, though, the highlight will be the opportunity to visit the world's largest visitable nuclear submarine, Le Redoubtable.

Visitors here get the chance to delve into a marvel of military engineering; once at the forefront of technological prowess and armed with 16 nuclear missiles, it possesses the capability to deliver a devastating one-megaton warhead across distances exceeding 3,000 kilometres.

The awesome power of the vessel is brought home when one learns should it have been called on to fulfil its ultimate mission, all 16 nuclear missiles would have been fired at once.

The military theme is unmissable in the Cherbourg region, as it also has numerous World War II sites easily within driving distance.

Indeed, a fascinating WWII day trip for history buffs and those with a more casual interest could include a visit to the Azeville German artillery battery constructed to shell the Normandy beaches during the Allied invasion.

From there, travel to Utah Beech on which 21,000 US troops landed on D-Day.

End the day at the captivating Airborne Museum in the town of Sainte-Mère-Eglise. This museum charts the heroic efforts of American paratroopers on D-Day and includes an array of interactive exhibits that bring the events of 80 years ago back to life.

The Cotentin Peninsula's western coast also has much to offer for those interested in long walks on the beach and picturesque French villages and towns such as Barneville-Carteret. These are a perfect base for visiting its rugged landscape and exquisite beaches.

Discover the Carteret lighthouse, providing visitors with breathtaking vistas of the coastline and the Channel Islands from its expansive balcony.

Further south, the village of Vauville, with its long beech and Botanical garden, is a must-visit. The garden, thanks to the Gulf Stream coastal current, which passes off the coast of Vauville, grows over 1,000 tropical species.

For me, swapping the south for the north in France brought a host of newfound charm.

Get there

Ciaran was a guest of Stena Line. Ferry options include its new Stena Vision, launched in summer 2023. It has 485 cabins onboard, a wide choice of bars and restaurants, Pure Nordic Spa, free Wi-Fi, Happy World for the kids, and a Sun Deck bar.

One-way fares from €249 for a car and driver. stenaline.ie

Where to stay

L'Ambassadeuer in Cherbourg: This three-star hotel is situated right in the centre of Cherbourg with views of Caligny quay and is currently offering double rooms for one or two from €58 per night. ambassadeuerhotel.com

Logis Hôtel le Cap: A seaside hotel and restaurant overlooking the port of Carteret and currently offering weekend rooms in June for €105 a night. logishotels.com

Where to eat

Chez Arséne au Domaine d'Utah Beach: A Hotel, restaurant and farm located beside Utah Beech, this has been run by Nicolas' family since 1891. Chefs use the best local produce with organic beef and veal coming from their own farm.

Nez de Jobourg - Auberge des Grottes: Located at the top of the Nez de Jobourg cliffs, fantastic food awaits you in a renovated and warm setting, facing the Channel Islands.