Six Nations Marseille rugby travel guide: Bars, food and sights for your France v Ireland trip

Pól Ó Conghaile has a bite-sized guide to the French port city for rugby fans travelling to see Andy Farrell’s team this weekend

Irish rugby fans and Marseille (composite images / Getty)

Vieux Port, Marseille. Photo: L'Office de Tourisme Marseille

Bouillabaisse in Marseille. Photo: marseille-tourisme.com

Irish rugby fans

thumbnail: Irish rugby fans and Marseille (composite images / Getty)
thumbnail: Vieux Port, Marseille. Photo: L'Office de Tourisme Marseille
thumbnail: Bouillabaisse in Marseille. Photo: marseille-tourisme.com
thumbnail: Irish rugby fans
Pól Ó Conghaile

Hang on a second. Wasn’t the Rugby World Cup just last week?

It may feel like that, but three months have passed since that titanic final in which South Africa beat New Zealand – and now another Six Nations campaign kicks off tomorrow night.

The St Brigid’s Day bank holiday begins with a clash many feel will decide this year’s tournament – Ireland v France.

Located in Provence, Marseille is a port city on the Med that mixes grit, industry, super food and occasionally surprising grandeur… with pints ringing in at €8 or thereabouts. The big city and its multicultural buzz means there’s plenty to do for fans wishing to make a weekend of it.

Why is the game in Marseille?

Unusually, this year’s French tussle is in Marseille rather than Paris – the Stade de France is being prepared for the Paris Olympics later this summer.

It coincides with a busy weekend of travel, with Cork Airport expecting a 22pc rise and Shannon a 12pc rise in passengers over last year as sports, sun, city and ski trippers flee the February weather at home.

Irish rugby fans at the Rugby World Cup

What time is the match, and how do I get there?

France v Ireland kicks off at 8pm GMT under the Friday night lights at Stade Velodrome, home of Ligue 1 side Olympique de Marseille.

To get to the stadium, take the Metro line 2 (red), disembarking at stations Rond-Point du Prado (for spectators in the Jean Bouin and Virage Nord – Patrice de Peretti stands; Entry 1) or Sainte-Marguerite Dromel (fans in the Ganay and Virage Sud – Chevalier Roze stands; Entry 2).

Bus routes include the 83, 19 and B1 (Stop: Rond-point du Prado). Marseille Tourism has a stadium transport guide here.

Ok. Now suggest some bars.

No shortage here (quelle surprise). At the Old Port (Vieux Port), for example, you’ll find a clutch of bars including Irish pubs O’Malley’s (good for live music), The Shamrock and Little Temple Bar.

O’Brady’s, on the Avenue de Mazargues side, is another fan favourite – and a good place to watch the game if you don’t have tickets. Morrison’s has a large terrace in Notre-Dame du Mont. Expect to pay from €7 to €9 for a pint. Sure, it’ll be like you never left home!

If you’d rather a sip of local culture, here’s a list of wine bars in Marseille. For two more casual options, with lots of selection by the glass, try Prov’Oc at 8 Rue Saint-Michel or Les Trois Coups at 197 Boulevard de la Liberation.

Vieux Port, Marseille. Photo: L'Office de Tourisme Marseille

What should I see in Marseille?

Marseille's Vieux Port (old port) is the postcard setting, sprawling below the famous shopping avenue of Canebiere. A stroll, drink or snack here will parachute you right into the city atmosphere (there are fish and flower markets too) – though be prepared to pay for the privilege.

For nightlife beyond the port, take an amble around Cours Julien – it’s also worth a look by day, packed as it is with markets, street art and independent-spirited boutiques, second-hand shops, bars and restaurants. A good square to aim for is Notre Dame du Mont, where you’ll be able to mosey around a handt huddle of places to eat and drink.

The ‘Good Mother’, or Basilica Notre-Dame de la Garde, is another symbol of the city, standing on a hill with panoramic views over the urban sprawl and coast. You can walk or take a tourist train – and it’s a good “been there” box to tick.

If the weather’s good, and you’re staying longer, consider a skip out to Les Calanques – a national park of limestone gorges and inlets about 14km from the city (public transport is best).

Bouillabaisse in Marseille. Photo: marseille-tourisme.com

Any food tips?

You are in France, so it would be rude not to at least once try something other than a kebab or burger.

Bouillabaisse, for example, is a thick fish soup (almost like a stew) with local origins – you’ll find it widely served around the old port. It can also be fascinating to see the North African influence on menus; and no visit to France is complete without at least two too many pastries.

One tip in Marseille is to look for set menus – a French staple that lowers the costs (three courses from €32 at Chez Madie in the old port, for example).

For something a little more adventurous, Limmat (41 rue Estelle) is a quirky, homely fish and veggie restaurant in the hipster area of Cours Julien. Think formica chairs, vintage plates and reasonably-priced dishes cooked up by Swiss chef Lili Gadola (mains around €14-€16) with a legendary local pavlova (€7).

There’s an online Marseille restaurant brochure here.

For more, see marseilletourisme.fr.