Palma de Mallorca — a perfect long weekend of cultural wonders and wellness adventures

It's a lot to ask for on a long weekend so I generally find myself having to compromise on something. Not after a recent trip to Palma, however.

On the 15-minute taxi drive from the airport to Saint Jaume Design Hotel, my boutique stay in the old town, we followed the sunny low-rise coast to the city. Nearing the centre, the remnants of the Roman walls towered above and I was suddenly transported 18 centuries back in time.

But dominating the skyline is the grand Santa María cathedral, once a mosque taken over by the Christian kingdoms 800 years ago from the Moors. My excitement levels began to rise and I couldn't wait to explore more of Mallorca's capital. 

Pulling up outside a refurbished 18-century mansion with navy-toned nouveau chic interior, was a luxury modern-day setting to enjoy my new surroundings. I was warmly welcomed by hotel manager Carla, who’s friendliness carried through to her delightful little family of staff. Given I was on a journey of both wellness and discovery, I couldn't have asked for a more perfect little haven.

Before tucking into some delicious crispy squid with orange aioli while sipping on a glass of wine (total cost: €20) in the restaurant that evening, I chilled out in the mini spa. After all, I was planning to return home revitalised and inspired, but without denying myself some of life's little pleasures. 

Now, I don't want to be bombarded with local facts on holidays, but I do like to get my bearings and can appreciate the deeper sense of a place you get from a city tour.

As Palma is not that big, this can easily be done on foot with a map, but the next day my companions and I were met by guide Adam (€150; tomirguiasmallorca.com/en/). We wandered down the shaded labyrinthian streets onto the bustling, marble promenade of Avenida Jaime III, which bears all the eloquence of the Aragon king it was named after but is now home to high street and designer shops.

Despite being sucked in by the window displays, we were encouraged to look up at the beautiful modernist architecture by Gaspar Bennazar on the adjoining Paseo del Borne, who gave the city its elegant, refined feel in the 1900s. 

But the renovations most talked about from that time are by Antoní Gaudi, who put his Gothic stamp on the cathedral, known locally as La Seu — seat of the bishop. Before entering the nave, we were ushered up a turreted staircase. 215 steps later, the 360-degree views of the sprawling city below to the Tramuntana mountains in the distance were well worth the climb.

Inside, Gaudi's suspended crucifix from the vault was, among other touches, spectacular. But what stood out for me was the rainbow of light reflected from the rosette window above the altar onto the tourists sitting in the pews. Twice a year between 8am and 9am, on February 2 and November 11, this light reflects underneath the opposite wall's circular stained-glass window to create the figure eight, to signify joy and resurrection. 

A little thirsty, we stopped at the renowned C'an Joan De S'Aigo on Calle Sanc, one of the first chocolatiers in Europe and first ice cream makers in Mallorca. The interior reminded me of our very own Bewley's on Grafton Street. Sipping on a coffee enjoying the island's traditional custard pastries, 'ensaimadas' (€3.65 for both), I imagined what Ireland could have looked like listening to Adam's account of the Spanish Armada's defeat by the English.

If I had more energy, I would have visited one of the city's many art galleries, most notably the Joan Miró museum (miromallorca.com) but it was time to chill out back at the hotel's rooftop terrace and relax in the plunge pool before our traditional cookery class that evening. 

Forn De Sa Llotgeta owner Deborah welcomed us into her converted bakery with a glass of vermouth. She explained the evolution of this fortified wine from its peasant times to prestigious present, as well as what planted the seed for her business. A former lawyer, she is all about honouring local food and artisans, and her passion is contagious (€135pp; deborahsculinaryisland.com).

We were put to chopping, whisking and tasting while she proudly unravelled the origins of our specially curated plant-based meal. Later, sat round the table to enjoy the fruits of our labour, she opened a bottle of rosé from the island's Ribas winery and a red Sincronia from Mesquida Mora. (Take note, Mallorcan wines are uber moreish.)

We chatted into the evening about how the island needs to nurture its producers to sustain the increasing level of tourism going forward. I left feeling inspired to create my own business, with a tasty courgette coca (tart) and almond cake recipe to recreate back home, not to mention an insider’s guide of places to visit on the island for when I come back — Soller and Deia, shhh!!

Making sure to keep a balanced body and mind, my fellow travellers and I tried a kundalini class at Sadhana Works the following morning (€18pp for a 75-minute class; sadhana.works).

The calm and wisdom of guru Mariana in the beautiful space was an uplifting experience. She talked about how to honour our true unique selves and realise the miracle of existing on this beautiful planet. With two Master's degrees in psychology and a PhD, it was pretty sound advice. Alongside her team of teachers, she runs vinyasa classes and gong baths to family constellation workshops and there's even a retreat happening with Deepak Chopra this October. 

There are too many hidden restaurant delights in Palma to mention, from the scallops at Mambo to the Iberian pork at De Tokio A Lima, but one place we found particularly inviting was Botanic. Sat outside in the stylish, lush garden, we were presented with a cocktail list and a plant-forward menu titled 'Green is the New Sexy'.

I have to say, in my 30 years of eating vegetarian food, this really was a Michelin-esque treat in veggie fare. We opted for the five-course set menu (€65pp; eatbotanic.com/en/) that included crunchy lettuce tacos with green beans, pineapple, herbs and Vietnamese sauce, yum. 

I could have chilled in Botanic all day, but instead we went for a gentle hike in the surrounding hills of the city only a 15-minute drive away. Our upbeat nature guide Martín took us to Bellver park (€65pp; martinswalks.es). Once covered in oak trees, the pine variety now shades the many routes that can be taken around this beautiful reserve. It's heartwarming to hear that it's being safeguarded by the government despite the growing development beyond the gates and forest destruction by hungry wild goats.

If you're looking for a lazier afternoon, however, the best beach coves close to Palma are Illetes or Cala Comtessa. Both can be accessed by bus or do as the Mallorcans do and charter an electric llaut (wooden sailboat) if you want to enjoy peaceful views of the coastline - you may even spot a celebrity on one of the many super yachts.

It took me 30 years to revisit Palma, but my next trip definitely won’t be as long coming. The cosmopolitan capital is the perfect weekend getaway for the solo traveller, a group of friends or alongside your better half and with numerous flights from Dublin, Knock, Cork, Shannon and Belfast from March to September, it's easily accessible in just under three hours.

I arrived home with a better understanding of what a wellness trip should entail and a longing to return to Mallorca’s enriching capital.

Get there

Etain McGuckian was a guest of Sant Jaume Design Hotel in Palma. For more information and to book, see santjaumedesignhotel.com/. Nightly prices start from €279 in low season and €369 in high season, based on two sharing on a B&B basis.

See also spain.info and visitpalma.com