Another side to Spain — taking a hike in ancient Aragon, truffles and cheese optional

A trek through this historic part of Spain finds our writer falling for its wild, unspoiled beauty

Emily Hourican hiking in Aragon, Spain

Emily Hourican

The first morning in Aragon is a glorious surprise. We’d arrived late the night before, long after dark, so having checked into our hotel, we’d had a quick and delicious dinner, and gone straight to bed. Meaning that all the glory of this walled town, Rubielos de Mora, was waiting for us once we were done with breakfast.

Almost a thousand metres above sea level, it is a place of centuries-old houses, the most lavish built by “Indianos” – the Spanish who went to America in the 18th and 19th centuries and came back with enough money to set themselves up in great style. This they did by constructing houses of stone with wooden roofs and elaborate carvings of beams to display family wealth.