Lucinda O’Sullivan’s restaurant review: Fabulous Floritz brings a golden touch to 22 St Stephen’s Green

Home to a variety of notable spots in the last three decades, 22 St Stephen’s Green is back at its best with Floritz

Chargrilled octopus, rice chips, courgette flower at Floritz. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan

Lucinda O’Sullivan

Having sat in this elegant Georgian house in St Stephen’s Green, Dublin, through its various restaurant lives since Barry Canny first opened his Browne’s Brasserie and Townhouse here in 1997, I’m probably in a good position to say that this latest incarnation is the most dramatically beautiful and vibrant to date.

There’s nothing restrained about it, with its glamorous, flamboyantly floral walls, opulent bar, mirrored ceilings, plush burgundy-velvet banquettes and booths, all reminiscent of classic old Parisian brasseries such as Le Train Bleu in the Gare de Lyon and Bofinger near the Bastille.