Lucinda O’Sullivan’s restaurant review: Experience Michelin-level food without breaking the bank at One Pico

Always ahead of the curve, Eamonn O’Reilly’s fabulous place has set menus that are simply divine

Braised leeks, pearl onions, nori, cashew nut purée. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan

Lucinda O’Sullivan

​Over the past few months we’ve unfortunately seen lots of restaurant closures, but on the flip side, there’s been plenty of new restaurants opening as well. And then there are the great survivors of the restaurant industry who’ve been in business for decades.

Back in 1997, on a grey humid July afternoon, my husband and I were the only customers sitting in a new restaurant — in the somewhat unlikely location of Camden Street, Dublin — called One Pico. It had been opened by chef Eamonn O’Reilly, then aged 25, with his brother James as front of house; the idea being that Camden Street was the up-and-coming Temple Bar.