Lucinda O’Sullivan's restaurant review: Caladh presents deliciously colourful plates in a stylish Scandi-feel setting

Despite lighting issues and a quick round of the name game, our critic loved the new Caladh in Greystones

Peter Hannan’s lamb rump, chickpea, romesco, green sauce at Caladh in Greystones, Co Wicklow. Photo: Lucinda O'Sullivan

Lucinda O'Sullivan

Introducing herself, with a notebook in hand, a waitperson in the new Caladh in Greystones approached our table and said, “What are your names?” Diarmuid and Steve, though a tad surprised, obliged while I, with my nose in the menu and smelling a rat, said nothing. Persisting, however, she looked directly at me, saying, “And what’s your name?”, whereupon Diarmuid, bursting out laughing, quickly relieved the pressure by jumping in with “How’s the beef?”

Some 25 years ago, when my boys were small, I had a notion to depart Monkstown for the ‘good life’ in Greystones — maybe a donkey or two, and copious cats and dogs. The Dart hadn’t reached there yet and it was still a genteel coastal village with the ghosts of uniformed nannys and vestiges of afternoon tea and croquet on the lawns of the grand mansions of the Burnaby Estate. My better half wasn’t entirely convinced, saying that soon Greystones would be as busy as Dun Laoghaire, only farther out with more driving.

Latest Food Reviews