Caladh restaurant review: On paper, this new Greystones spot ticks all the boxes – but it’s just a bit boring

While locals in the affluent coastal town will welcome this new addition, our critic struggles to get excited about the food or wine

Caladh restaurant in Greystones, Co Wicklow

Katy McGuinness

What’s the collective noun for a group of restaurant critics? Well, that depends on whom you ask, but ‘girth’, ‘greed’, ‘indulgence’ and ‘shrivel’ are some of the better alternatives I’ve come across.

I’m sure you can come up with a few suggestions of your own; please be kind.