Silhouettes, Fabrics, & Techniques
The Resort collection explores new silhouettes, fabric developments, and techniques:
One of the focuses was to create in diverse materials a set uniform for our modern pagan. A short tunic dress with tulip sleeves that can be worn belted or not with cropped flare pants is made with silk wool crepe, cashmere lace, silk lace, and in wool cashmere knitwear with matching knit bag.
Fuller grand sleeves construction is made with humble but noble fabrications in aloe linen and sea island cotton.
Trench cape with Mackintosh finish is made in luxurious variations: nappa, recycled cotton linen denim and deadstock canvas, fully lined in cashmere.
Bustier dress is in recycled cotton linen with scallop shaped quilting in recycled cashmere batting corset, swirl lace insert and silk plissé, and in an alternative version in full aloe linen.
Cape dresses and tops are in both silk macramé mesh and merino wool cashmere knitted in a pebble stitch.
Nappa leather is used in the mackintosh bonded finish details of the trench cape. The same finish is applied to the black leather bib dress with a ribbon-tie back paired and a full white aloe linen skirt. Metallic leather in Red, Pink and Gold are used in both ready-to-wear and shoes. Distressed Moto leather for both pencil and bell shape skirts. Shearling is only showcased in the color Sky with represents the sunrise in both ready-to-wear and handbags. Suede is in camel and black for garments traditionally made out of denim, such as a button-down shirt and a five-pocket pant.
Sea island cotton poplin is shaped into a full-sleeved dress and crisp shirting. The cotton, watered only by rainwater irrigation, is one of the most luxuriously soft cotton fibers due to its uniquely long length. Grown sustainably by farms in Barbados, the material is only produced in small batches and so rarely used.
A linear quilted technique is in recycled cotton linen denim and aloe linen, as well as a lean pencil skirt in the same fabrics.
A decorative whipstitch of raw-edge chiffon is laced through a recycled cotton linen denim skirt, finishing in delicately frayed strips. This sustainable denim is also pin-tucked and framed with custom-made swirl lace and trimmed in the brand's signature herringbone lace time detail.
The swirl lace, a recurring motif inspired by Gabriela's swirl drawings, is rendered in gold silk to form a modern tunic-style suit, whilst a red macramé cashmere lace is used for classic button-down shirts and skirts with a scallop-edge finishing. The lace is also interpreted as a merino wool knit dress and tank with a pointelle stitch.
Tailoring is in a rich silk wool pile velvet coating. The textured tailoring in a wool barre suiting is over printed with a tone-on-tone block print technique. Cashmere jacquard coating is inspired by Gabriela's sunset painting in rich hues of Spice, Cadmium yellow and Boredeaux.
A new spaghetti loop technique in sunset color silk chiffon and black (partially deadstock) gives depth and layers to a strapless dress and pencil skirt. The loop effect is also interpreted as deeply textured knitwear.
Knitwear
Knitwear innovation continues to be a strong focus. Yarn spun exclusively for Gabriela Hearst sees 100% cashmere fibers mixed with glass beads. The yarn is then meticulously hand-crocheted by artisans.
Similarly handmade is the 100% roving cashmere repeadtedly dip-dyed by craftspeople in Uruguay to create an ombré effect of overlayed colors. Another color innovation comes in the form of patchwork hues separated by sheer yarn that give a dress a light, ethereal feel.
Complementing the artisanal touches are new technological innovations that allow knit garments to be engineered so that the number of yarns increases and decreases according to the width of the body.
Handbags
Knitwear techniques are applied to this season's handbag offer as well.
The Hybris Bag is hand macramé by artisans in India. The cashmere silk yarn is hand knotted, using macramé stitches, in a diagonal, multicolored, striped mesh finished with a wrapped leather handle. Mélange, loop and degrade effects are featured on large shoulder bags and sumptuous frame clutches.
The Leonora crossbody bag, introduced in the Fall 2024 show, is reintroduced in new suede or canvas fabrications with leather binding.
The Carrington clutch, a compact version of the frame bag also presented in the Fall 2024 show, comes in deerskin in rich shades of bordeaux, ivory and black. Both handbags are named after the Fall season's muse, artist Leonora Carrington.
New shapes include the Golda, a streamlined take on a doctor's bag with a leather-covered frame and the brand's signature turn-lock closure, unstructured Avebury and Sillbury totes with bright contrast linings, and the Neith, a supple nappa leather pouch cut into dozens of ribbons, each with a spiral rose-gold-plated charm dangling from it.
Footwear
Footwear this season displays the Gabriela Hearst emphasis on craftsmanship. A new cowboy boot, named the Capitana, is revisited with sleek modern lines and a layered sole - a construction carried through to an elegant but sturdy pump and a bootie that fastens with enameled western buckles.
Clean, minimal lines are achieved by highly skilled artisans who mount the heels and uppers of our Dalia heels in one piece. Also highly crafted are the Aurora hand-woven shoes, created out of thin straps of goat leather - a technique also featured in the rustic belts of the collection.
The footwear offer also includes crochet slip-on Callie ballet flats made out of cashmere yarn with glass beads - a material also found in the knitwear offer. Elsewhere, spazzolato leather gives loafers a subtle sheen, and deerskin leather is used for a unisex slip-on, the Midas, in which the upper is hand-stitched to the outsole, in deep hues that tie back to the handbag line.
Jewelry
New fine jewelry adds a final touch to the collection in the form of American-made Mala necklaces and bracelets in 18K white and rose gold. Also known as prayer beads, Mala's are specifically composed of 108 beads for counting meditation or mantras. Each bead is hand-drilled, strung and knotted. The same traditional construction was used on beaded strands of rubies, each featuring a single monogrammed gold bead.
