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Dino Bonacic is a Croatian-born, London-based journalist, lecturer and aspiring fashion tourist with a strong love of handbags – and this is his first time traveling around Spain.
There’s something completely liberating about embracing a happy accident— and there’s no better place to do it than in Spain. The country is a perfect destination to start practicing a more laissez-faire approach to travel, with a culture that’s receptive to others and characters who are happy to put you on the right path. On a tour that purely relied on recommendations of locals, I got to experience the most interesting stories, people, and places Spain has to offer.
A FILM SET BROUGHT TO LIFE
This spontaneous journey took me to Andalucía, the southernmost region of the Iberian Peninsula, with natural beauty that unravels like a cinematic masterpiece. This impression is complete, thanks to the dramatic soundtrack that evolves with every step you take: strings of flamenco guitars, steps echoing on marble floors, and soulful laughter that envelops the narrow streets. It’s a film set brought to life, just waiting for its next protagonist.
THE CHARM OF CÓRDOBA
The first act of my adventure started just outside the city of Córdoba, in what felt like a perfect place to unwind before delving into the local culture. Set in a stone quarry across 2.5 acres of land, Cuevas del Pino is a rural estate that takes you back in time. With a swimming pool, fruit orchards, and even a chicken coop for when you’re looking for some company, it’s the ultimate spot for a city break. But what’s the fun in keeping calm? The necessary dose of adrenaline came in the historic part of Córdoba—in equestrian heaven.
Founded in the 16th century, the Royal Stables are best known for breeding the royal breed of the Andalucían horse, the best of which are showcased in regular breathtaking shows. With folkloric sounds as the backdrop and elaborate costumes worn by the performers, the spectacles tell the story of Andalucían history. In case you’re not satisfied by just sitting in the stands, you can also take the reins into your own hands—quite literally. With the help of Julia, one of the Stables’ star performers and a teacher in its riding school, I got on a horse for the first time. And yes, it was all that I ever imagined, a true fairy- tale moment of trotting around a shadow-filled hall.
WHERE CULTURES COME TOGETHER
After all that physical activity, it was time to get into the local cuisine—which is once again a reflection of the area’s patchwork past. A few winding streets down, I met up with Paco Morales (@pacomoraleschef), a two-Michelin-star chef behind one of the most prestigious restaurants in the area, Noor. But before he would take me to his favorite restaurant, Paco showed me around the Mezquita de Córdoba, a stellar symbol of historic architecture that today presents an interaction of diverse identities and cultures. Its monumental structures offer an endless source of inspiration to Paco, whose plates bring stories of the past into the present. For a light afternoon snack—one of six daily meals here in Spain—he took me to his favorite eatery, Casa Pepe de La Judería. Here, I learned about the local way of eating: slow, indulgent, and full of intricacies that make the experience more than just nourishment. Picking up the shelled king prawns by their antennas is a great example of just how hands-on the eating process is. With Seville as my next stop, Paco recommended I visit Plaza de España, describing it as an imposing square with an enchanting energy that transports you somewhere far, far away.
STUNNING SEVILLE
Walking through its yellow halls was exactly like Paco detailed it, proving that listening to locals isn’t just about avoiding the obvious spots. Pure beauty doesn’t have to be hidden down a complicated route. Instead, it can be hiding in plain sight, surrounded by fountains, gardens, and bridges craving for a romantic plot twist of a glass slipper left on its steps. But there was no time for fantasy—I’d scheduled a private tour with Ana Jarén (@anajarenillustration), an illustrator originally from Seville. Ana kindly offered to take me around Casa de Pilatos, one of the city’s many palaces dating back to the 16th century. With textured tiles covering every corner, she introduced me to the concept of horror vacui, an artistic urge to fill the entire surface with detail. Just as we said farewell to each other in the cool gardens of the palace, I asked Ana for her recommendation of one thing I simply must do while in Seville. Her answer? “Flamenco!”
FLAMENCO, REIMAGINED
Who better to introduce me to the art of this traditional dance than a man who is continuing the legacy by challenging its rigid norms? Manuel Liñan (@manuellinan) was born and raised in Andalucía, but has since traveled the world, thanks to being one of the premier flamenco dancers and choreographers. His best-known work is Viva!, a reimagining of classic costumes and movements that sees men performing in the role of women. “As soon as I started dancing at 5 years old, I didn’t feel right with the way I dressed and the way I danced, so I wanted to have access to the aesthetic related with feminine roles and the female way of dancing, too,” he explained, before immersing me into his world by teaching some of flamenco’s simple steps in one of the studios of Conservatorio de Danza Sevilla. Manuel then slipped into a stark white dress overflowing with ruffles and shrugged on a matching lace shawl with long fringing over it—all key elements to bringing his hypnotizing moves to life. As I watched him ferociously stomp his heels on the marble of the Conservatory’s courtyard, I couldn’t help but feel like I was witnessing the final act of a cinematic odyssey—one in which anyone can be the protagonist.