Review: SO/ Paris

Why book?

If you’re after jaw-dropping views of the city, big on design, and don’t mind making an under-the-radar Paris neighborhood your home base, this is a playful and comfortable contender in a sea of design properties.

Set the scene

There are plenty of layers of refreshing novelty to peel back before you even make it to the elevators at this unexpected hot spot in a formerly sleepy pocket of the Marais. That begins with the design by RDAI that goes hard on retro-futurism and decorative touches informed by the surrounding environment, like Parisian cobblestones and the Seine river. The terrazzo flooring with marble inserts, soaring volumes, and striking mushroom-shaped pillars make the first big impression once you’re through the door, then the eye catches the contemporary art works, like the vibrant tondo painting by the French-Algerian artist Neïl Beloufa, and the amber glass mirrored walls. By then, one of the staff dressed head-to-toe in Breton stripes in funky hues designed by Guillaume Henry, the artistic director of Patou, has welcomed you with a detox juice or zero-proof cocktail and kicked off a very different kind of Parisian stay.

The backstory

The location in what locals would have called an absolute nothing of a neighborhood is what makes the property so compelling. Nicknamed L’Arsenal today, the area used to be an island, much like nearby Île de la Cité and the Ile Saint Louis. The Île Louviers, as it was known in the 18th century, was leased to lumber merchants who stockpiled their timber. Louis Philippe had it filled in and connected to the rive droite (right bank) in 1841 but the land’s next biggest change wouldn’t come until the 1960s when it was transformed into a modernist administrative complex. Though technically part of the Marais, this pocket between the Place de la Bastille and the river was never a destination; it was residential and sleepy at best until 2022 when a substantial urban revitalization project saw the complex overhauled by British architect David Chipperfield. The SO/ Hotel shares the site with an art gallery, several restaurants, a trendy youth hostel, a bakery, and residences. If the area is on the map today it is first and foremost because of the hotel and its fashion-forward crowd that piles into Bonnie, the oh-so-sceney restaurant-bar-nightclub on the top two floors, run separately by the Paris Society group. It’s here where hotel and restaurant guests can access 360° views and the Olafur Eliasson site-specific mirrored work The Seeing City.

The rooms

Each of the 162 rooms and suites are spread out between the 8th and 14th floors and are categorized by the views they offer—but river views are where you should allocate your budget if you can. RDAI gave rooms a colorful palette with shimmering tones, warm woods, ceramics, and thoughtful details like coffee tables that double as tray tables, a spirits cabinet, a Bluetooth speaker in the shape of a bulldog and a minibar stocked with locally-sourced snacks. Codage beauty products can be found in the en suite bathroom and there, be mesmerized by the sizable shower with some of the best and consistent water pressure of any Parisian hotel shower. Truly something to behold.

Food and drink

The restaurant group Paris Society manages the room service and on-site restaurant Bonnie, where breakfast is also served, which should tell you something if you’re familiar with the group’s other establishments: the ambience, views, and crowd takes priority over the menu. The food is solid if expensive and won’t be delivering any transformative dining experiences. But that isn’t the point—the retro-chic dining room and absolutely jaw-dropping views are why you’re here in the first place. You will, however, find some French classics like sole meunière and foie gras with toasted brioche, lobster linguini, and a massive veal chop for two alongside American items like crab cakes, caesar salade, chicken with buffalo wing sauce, and a very good Angus ribeye steak to share. (You’ll also want to go in on the fries and macaroni and cheese). The bar and Studio 54-inspired nightclub have similarly stellar views of the entire city and attract a crowd that doesn’t balk at dressing up.

The spa

A small but excellent Codage spa is run separately from the hotel (much like the fitness center and pool– free for guests to access but do call ahead) on the lower level of the building. There aren’t many treatment rooms so make your request when you check-in.

The neighborhood/area

That formerly sleepy neighborhood of L’Arsenal is only slightly less sleepy today but it does connect guests easily to public transport, to the river, and to the more lively parts of the Marais where you’ll find independent shops, the BHV/Marais department store, city hall, and the Institut du Monde Arabe, a quick jaunt over the Pont de Sully.

The service

You can expect relaxed but still attentive service when it comes to the reception desk and room management and a bit more of that storied Parisian sass when it comes to the restaurant.

For families

Given the see-and-be-seen crowd, this isn’t the ideal spot to book as a family but a handful of rooms can accommodate children.

Accessibility

All ADA standards are met and animals are permitted.

Anything left to mention?

Pay attention to the thematic pop-up corner before you hit the elevator corridor. During my stay, it featured a curation of fashion and design pieces in collaboration with the Printemps department store but the hotel hands over the space to a rotating roster of artists, floral studios, and brands throughout the year.