Review: Cheval Blanc Paris

Why book?

Skip the sleepy districts that house so many of Paris’s plush hotels, and book a private perch with a bird’s eye view of the river and La Samaritaine as your fashion-forward neighbor.

Set the scene

From a sophisticated suburban crowd to the Bobo’s of the right bank, every type of Parisian rubs shoulders with jet-setting guests in the convivial seventh-floor Art Deco brasserie meets cocktail bar, Le Tout-Paris. It’s the place to be seen before you escape to the subterranean spa or your room with a view.

The backstory

Named after an LVMH-owned vineyard in France’s prestigious wine region of Saint-Emilion, the brand’s hotel group Cheval Blanc Maison was born in the upscale ski resort town of Courchevel in 2006. And so began a tradition of blending local architecture with timeless elegance to create some of the world’s most exclusive properties, where attention to detail is paramount. Cheval Blanc Randheli in the Maldives was Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy's second hotel, followed by France’s ritzy settings of St Barths and Saint-Tropez. It seems fitting to open the first urban hotel where so many of its clients reside—and where better than within the landmark La Samaritaine. The first hotel project by architect Peter Marino, who’s no stranger to the LVMH brand, was to create a destination that would surprise. “I wanted everything to be new and unexpected. Looking like it could have never been seen before. Elegant, austere, unique,” says Marino. What doesn’t surprise is how omnipresent LVMH brands are, from the gold-buttoned uniforms by Patou to the subterranean spa helmed by Dior.

The rooms

Almost every one of the 72 elegant, beige and gold-hued rooms, 46 of which are suites, overlook the Seine. The best spot from which to enjoy the hotel’s idyllic position is from a sunlit winter garden suite. This private perch offers views from Notre-Dame Cathedral to the Eiffel Tower, as well as a glimpse into day-to-day life in the French capital. This includes the famous bouquinistes (or booksellers), romantic promenades, and maybe even a peaceful protest or two. The bathrooms with grand marble tubs and hammam walk-in showers are made all the more special by bath products in two different scents–one powdery fresh, the other deep and woody– designed by Dior perfumer François Demachy (in the shape of the building no less) look towards the river. It’s in the details that the rooms reveal their most extravagant quality, from the fridges reserved for cosmetics and makeup set at the optimal temperature to preserve the shelf-life of products to the original light fixtures over each bed that were sculpted by the artist Philippe Anthonioz. For those in search of ultimate privacy, the top floor duplex 7,000 square-foot Quintessence Suite comes with four ensuite bedrooms, a 41-foot private swimming pool, projection space, panoramic terrace and a hefty price tag– as should be expected from one of the largest penthouses in Paris.

Food and drink

Across the hall from the seventh-floor contemporary brasserie and bar Le Tout-Paris, Langosteria (the first to open outside of Milan) is a draw for Italian fine dining and a playful ambiance. When the weather allows, outdoor seating puts diners on eye level with the skyline. Meanwhile, Chef Arnaud Donckele invites diners into French gastronomy dictated by broths, creams, vinaigrettes and veloutés at Plénitude, awarded three Michelin stars within its first year. Pastry Chef Maxime Frédéric, the city’s rising star (and two-time Fou de Pâtisserie pastry prize winner), oversees every rustic loaf of bread, baked good and plated dessert that is served, whether delivered to rooms or presented to guests at one of the on-site restaurants. Much of the dairy for his creations are sourced from the Norman farm run by his wife and sister. It’s also thanks to Frédéric that the breakfast is worth raving about: from multi-laminated croissants and pain au chocolat to indulgent brioche French toast served with an ethereally light vanilla-inflected whipped cream and an elegant and airy waffles. A fourth restaurant (sushi-focused, rumor has it) is currently in the works to replace what was the short-lived Limbar on the ground floor) and is slated to open in early 2024.

The spa

Tucked away below ground, the brightly lit spa designed like a modern living room is helmed by another member of the LVMH équipe and star of both Parisian couture and beauty: Christian Dior. From the cinched-in-at-the-waist robes—a nod to the designer’s signature dresses—to the silk twills, fragrances and cosmetics available to purchase, the Dior Spa Cheval Blanc serves as a thoughtful tribute to the fashion house. The challenge is choosing from a menu where 47 face and body treatments, the most-notable of which include ‘Couture Dream’ and ‘Precious Energy’, the latter using semi-precious hot stones for their energetic properties. Some soins even include an ‘invisible cut’ by Italian stylist Rossano Ferretti. Most impressive is the spa’s 100-foot swimming pool—the longest of any hotel pool in Europe. Hypnotizing with its undulating waves of blue and green mosaic tiles, scenes of Paris are projected onto the walls. This work by Franco-Isreali artist Yorame Mevorach, also known as Oyoram, gives the illusion of swimming along the river’s edge. We recommend a dip into the snow shower before rotating between the sauna and the hammam.

The neighborhood

It’s not only the highly-anticipated reopening of department store La Samaritaine that has put this central Paris enclave on the hotlist. Just minutes away, what was once the Commodities Exchange has transformed into the Bourse de Commerce, a museum dedicated to contemporary art where François Pinault’s private collection is on full display. The illustrious Louvre Museum is another culture-infused neighbor. For a taste of Parisian life, a walk along the pedestrian péniche-lined river offers plenty of insight, as locals indulge in the art of the apéro. There is no better spot from which to explore the right and left banks, from Le Marais to Saint-Germain.

The service

The Palace Hotel category of five-star properties comes with a notion of service that far exceeds name recognition and a friendly welcome. For one, butlers ensure the stay exceeds expectations, from drawing guests their bath before returning back to the room at night to coordinating with the concierge for a number of experiences (a picnic lunch for a private boat ride on the Seine, an exclusive visit of the historic Louis Vuitton ateliers in Asnières, priority access to the LV Dream exhibition (running for at least a year)– a look at 160 years of Louis Vuitton’s artistic collaborations and a pastry café and boutique helmed by the Cheval Blanc’s own Maxime Frédéric– or even after hours shopping at La Samaritaine. In other words: almost anything is possible. 

Eco effort

The complimentary bath products are large enough to refill and water is served in glass bottles.

Accessibility for those with mobility impairments

The staff makes every effort to facilitate requests, from assistance around the hotel to arranging for the hotel’s private chauffeurs to drive you to your destination.

Anything left to mention?

With nearly 600 artisans involved in the restoration and works by global artists exhibited throughout the space, Cheval Blanc Paris feels like entering a living museum, one where you can very comfortably spend the night.