We often think about vegetables and fruits as having distinct, unique seasons, but meat and seafood are just as influenced by the change in weather. Case in point? Soft-shell crab. This late spring and early summer treat inspires fanatical devotion, in part because the season is so short. Soft-shells are actually just blue crabs that have shed their shells in a massive warm-weather growth spurt. If they stay in the water, they grow new, larger shells, but when they're harvested, that process comes to a halt and the crabs stay soft (and almost completely edible). At Bon Appétit, perhaps no one is a bigger fan of the soft-shell crab than test kitchen cook Chris Wegan, who created this recipe for the ultimate fried soft-shell-crab sandwich.
Soft-shell crabs are sold live when in season, but if you'd rather not clean and prep them yourself (i.e., cut off the still-living creature's face), most fishmongers will be happy to do it. "Everyone goes crazy for soft-shell crab season," says Wegan. "But they're all stoked to go out and eat it. What people don't know is that it's actually really easy to make at home."
Easy? Surprisingly so. Wegan starts with the basics: a really flavorful breading process. He adheres to the classic flour-egg-breadcrumb treatment, but ups the ante by seasoning both the flour and the breadcrumbs (he goes for panko, actually) with Old Bay. "Old Bay is just awesome," says Wegan. "It's incredible in summer food—a classic." He also sneaks a little cayenne pepper in the flour for an added kick. The crab is then fried in vegetable oil, but don't be intimidated: It's a shallow pan job. No need to invest in a deep fryer (or gallons of oil).
The crabs are then served on soft buns. "You want the biggest crunch to come from that crispy fried crab," he explains. "In fact, even using a sesame seed hamburger bun would be great."
But crab and bread do not a sandwich make. To gussy things up, Wegan also slathers on a homemade mayonnaise and mustard sauce spiked with—yep—more Old Bay. A vinegar-based cabbage slaw adds freshness and some acidity to the sandwich, and you're ready to go.
What really makes this sandwich such a showstopper is the presentation. "I always use a bun that's slightly smaller than the crab, so its claws poke out," says Wegan with a devilish smile. "It's just more fun to eat that way."