Welcome to Cook Like a Pro, in which we ask some of our favorite chefs for their essential techniques, along with advice on fearlessly frying, flipping, seasoning, and more.
Where most chefs used to just reach for kosher salt, there are now many paths to savory goodness. James Syhabout, chef at Hawker Fare in San Francisco, uses briny fermented agents to pack flavor and salinity in a single punch. His recipe for lamb shanks calls for fish sauce, and the finished dish tastes well-seasoned—not fishy. So why would you add saltiness only to your food when you can add complexity as well? Well, you wouldn’t.
1. Red Boat Fish Sauce
Made using only fresh anchovies and salt, this pleasantly balanced, slow-fermented fish sauce brings out great caramelization in roasted meat.
2. Parm or Pecorino
Especially in grated form, these aged cheeses add a touch of funkiness as well as salt. Whisk into vinaigrettes or eggs for omelets.
3. Healthy Boy Soy Sauce
This Thai condiment comes in both dark (molasses-y and slightly sweet) and light versions. Both carry more nuance than typical Japanese soy sauces.
4. South River Miso
Syhabout prefers red miso for its heartiness. Use South River Miso’s variety to marinate meats, or toss a dab into roasted veg.
5. Nettuno Colatura
The Italian version of fish sauce, colatura is aged for months in chestnut-wood barrels, which gives it impressive richness. Add just a few drops to pastas and soups.
