Welcome to Cook Like a Pro, in which we ask some of our favorite chefs for their essential techniques, along with advice on fearlessly frying, flipping, seasoning, and more.
There’s nothing more restaurant-y than deep-frying: webbed-metal baskets hoisted into bubbling vats of oil, the threat of third-degree burns at the slightest spattery misstep. Yet there are few places doing it with the precision of Wildair.
At this ambitious Lower East Side wine bar, chefs Jeremiah Stone and Fabian von Hauske replace typical calamari and marinara with segments of squid encased in a golden chicharron-like shell, primed for dipping into aioli. How does their version remain shatteringly crisp where others go soggy? The secret is hiding in the batter: potato starch and arepa flour, the tickets to everlasting crunchiness.
Ready to fry? Here's how it's done.
Working in batches of 5 or 6 and returning oil to 375° between batches, dredge squid, scallions, and lemon in arepa flour, shaking off excess.
Using chopsticks or tongs, dip into batter, letting extra drip off.
Fry, turning every 30 seconds or so, until golden, crisp, and puffed, about 2 minutes. (Again, chefs love the precision and control that chopsticks provide.)
Transfer to paper towels; season right away with salt.
