Welcome to Cook Like a Pro, in which we ask some of our favorite chefs for their essential techniques, along with advice on fearlessly frying, flipping, seasoning, and more.
You'd never attempt to bake cookies or roast veggies without first grabbing your trusty sheet pan. But if you've never used one to, say, smoke a piece of fish (no wood chips required) or replace your cutting board, now's the time to start.
Smoking
When grilling thick, meaty fish like swordfish, Kevin Gillespie of Atlanta’s Gunshow places an upside-down sheet tray on top of the fish to trap smoke. “It increases the ‘smokiness’ without the acerbic flavor that can come from smoking chips,” he says.
Preheating
Stick the pan in the oven before cooking veg, says Naomi Pomeroy of Beast in Portland, OR. An already-hot tray jump-starts caramelization. Plus, “if you put a room-temperature tray in the oven with, say, brussels sprouts, it can get steamy, and then they can get soggy.”
Organizing
“I would never peel a vegetable onto a cutting board,” says Thomas McNaughton of Flour + Water in San Francisco. He peels, picks herbs, and shreds meats onto a sheet pan. “Then you just pick it up and throw things into a bowl or trash can. It makes everything go faster.”
Roasting (Of Course!)
“Putting the chicken on a wire rack set inside a baking sheet allows air to circulate under the bird, helping it cook more evenly,” says Daniel Humm, who recommends the technique for home cooks attempting his famous NoMad roast chicken recipe.