Our favorite rites of spring include baring our legs for the first time in months; making the first no-cook dinner of the year (and eating it outside); stuffing ourselves with peas and asparagus; and, of course, buying all of the rhubarb we can carry as soon as we see the pink stalks sprawled out in the market stalls. Tart, sour, and bright, rhubarb is a harbinger of what’s to come—an entry point into the loads and loads of fruit desserts we’ll be baking from now ‘til fall. But as much as we love a strawberry-rhubarb situation, this fruit (or hold up: is it a vegetable?) is good for so much more than pie. Read on to find how to buy, use, and appreciate this leggy, pink…fruit vegetable produce.
First things first: Is rhubarb really a vegetable?
It’s often treated like a fruit in desserts, but rhubarb is technically a member of the buckwheat family. It was declared a fruit by the U.S. Customs Court in Buffalo, NY, in 1947 to reflect how Americans were using it.
How do I know which stalks to buy?
Pick thin, firm stalks—these are likely to be sweeter and less stringy than thicker ones. (Redder stalks aren’t always sweeter, but they make for prettier presentations.)
How should I store them?
Keep unwashed rhubarb in an unsealed plastic bag in the crisper for up to a week. If you have a large haul, wash stalks, slice, and then freeze for future pies and crumbles.
Can I eat the whole thing?
When prepping rhubarb, get rid of the leaves; they contain oxalic acid, which is poisonous to humans in large quantities.
What should I do with it?
Try pickling! Slice 2 rhubarb stalks on a diagonal and pack into a heatproof 1-pint jar. Bring 1 cup red wine vinegar, ½ cup sugar, 1 ½ tsp. kosher salt, and ¾ cup water to a boil in a small saucepan, stirring to dissolve sugar and salt. Pour into jar; cover and chill at least 1 hour and up to 1 week. Add to salads, grain bowls, or cheese plates.
Is there any other way to preserve it?
Yes! For a rosy-hued syrup to add to cocktails or mix with club soda, bring ½ cup sugar and ½ cup water to a boil in a small saucepan, stirring to dissolve sugar. Add 1 ½ cups grated rhubarb, reduce heat, and simmer until fruit starts to fall apart and mixture thickens, about 5 minutes. Let cool 30 minutes. Strain into an airtight container; cover and chill up to 1 week.
Or turn it into compote. Cook 1 ½ lb. rhubarb, chopped, 1 ½ cups sugar, and 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice in a large heavy saucepan over medium heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until rhubarb is tender, 6–8 minutes. Transfer to a container and chill at least 2 hours and up to 3 days.
Okay, but what if I want to eat it straight away?
Strawberry-rhubarb pie is a classic for a reason, but that doesn’t mean you can’t change it up. Try adding vanilla bean seeds, the zest of half an orange, or a pinch of ground cardamom.
Add a shock of pink to this season’s agenda with our best rhubarb desserts, salads, sides, and more.
