In the Bon Appétit test kitchen, your first time developing the Thanksgiving turkey recipe is a big deal. A right of passage. Andy Baraghani got the call in 2018. “It was an honor,” Andy told me, “like I’d been nominated for an Oscar.” The bird is the indisputable star of Thanksgiving dinner, and it has a lot of predecessors to live up to—we’ve loved many turkey recipes over the years.
Our 2018 Thanksgiving menu focused on nailing the best-possible versions of classics, and developing the best turkey was no exception. The assignment: a foolproof, always-turns-out-right roast turkey recipe. Every element was obsessed over: crackly skin, juicy interior, actual turkey flavor. In the end, we got this perfect roast turkey, which we’ll break down step-by-step in this handy guide.
Brine your turkey.
Andy’s recipe calls for massaging the bird with dry rub and then letting it chill in the fridge. This technique is called dry-brining; it’s commonly used on chicken, but it’s also essential for a juicy, actually delicious turkey. Here’s how it works: The salt pulls out the liquid trapped in the turkey meat, creating some salty turkey juices that soak back into the bird while it hangs out in the fridge. A whole turkey loses a lot of water when it cooks in the oven, but the salt helps the muscles retain more moisture. That means a dry-brined turkey (and its leftover meat) will stay moist for days.
Why is a dry brine better than a wet brine? Maybe in the past you’ve filled a huge cooler or tub with saltwater, constructing an elaborate dunk tank for the bird. Our opinion: It’s a pain, it’s a mess, and that bucket of wet brine takes up way too much real estate in the refrigerator. Plus, it ends up waterlogging the turkey and diluting its flavor. A dry brine achieves everything a wet brine sets out to, but in a much more user-friendly way.
To dry-brine a turkey, first remove the neck and giblets from the turkey’s cavity, then pat the bird dry all over with paper towels. Andy keeps the dry rub simple with just kosher salt and brown sugar, but you can add other seasonings or spices, like black pepper, garlic powder, or smoked paprika (as in this Expertly Spiced and Glazed Roast Turkey recipe). Don’t skip the sugar, though: In addition to seasoning the bird, the brown sugar in the dry rub caramelizes in the oven, helping the skin develop a golden amber color.
Massage the dry rub all over the bird—outside and inside the cavity—at least 12 hours or up to 2 days before the big day. The salt needs time to permeate that big hulking bird. Let the turkey hang out in the fridge until you’re ready to roast.
Butter the bird.
While the oven preheats, you’ll rub a whole stick of unsalted butter (important because there’s already lots of salt from the dry brine) on the turkey’s surface, under the skin, and, if there’s any left, inside the cavity. This ensures juicy turkey meat and truly golden brown skin. You’ll need to loosen the skin of the bird to do this. It’s not pretty, but it’s necessary—watch the process here.
Andy doesn’t add any veggies or aromatics to the pan—a few rogue thyme sprigs are more likely to burn in the oven than impart any real flavor. Instead, this Thanksgiving centerpiece gets additional flavor from a sour-sweet glaze. And on that note:
Glaze, don’t baste.
If crispy skin is your goal—and when has it ever not been?—basting is likely to sabotage your mission. Basting the turkey (brushing it or spritzing it with stock or pan juices) introduces moisture back to the skin, rendering it flabby. All that work of dry-brining for nothing! Glazing, on the other hand, introduces a sweetened syrup to the surface of the bird, which will caramelize and turn into a sweet-savory shellac. Result: crispy skin for everyone.
This simple, punchy-herby glaze is made of vinegar, honey, Worcestershire sauce, fresh rosemary, garlic, orange zest, and more butter. While the turkey cooks, paint on the glaze every 30 minutes for a lacquered, cover-worthy sheen.
Choose the right pan.
If you only break out the ginormous roasting pan once a year, it may be time to part with it once and for all. The high walls of a roasting pan can block the circulation of hot air, resulting in an unevenly browned bird. Instead, roast the turkey on a sheet pan (lined with a wire rack) to give the entire exterior equal exposure to the heat. If the idea of a big heavy turkey on a rack without walls makes you nervous, then yes, you can use a regular roasting pan instead. But you’ll never know what you’re missing.
You’ll also want to pour a cup of water into the bottom of the baking sheet to prevent the drippings from reducing too much and causing a smoke show in your kitchen. Just avoid using too much water, which will steam your turkey and sog out the skin.
Start the oven hot, then lower the heat.
Our best turkey recipe is timed so that you go hard at the beginning to get some color on the skin, 450° for 30 minutes, and reduce the heat to 300° for 65–85 minutes to cook the bird through. Total cook time: just under 2 hours. This is for a 12–14-lb. turkey; the cook time will depend on how many pounds of turkey you’re working with. More on how long to cook a turkey, based on the size of your bird, here.
If you want the bird to cook even faster, consider a spatchcocked turkey rubbed with orange zest, aniseed, and fresh thyme leaves.
Take the turkey’s temperature early and often.
This is where a meat thermometer comes in handy. Insert it into the thickest part of the breast, near the neck, about halfway through the final cooking stage, and then every 20–30 minutes following (or every time you glaze). When the internal temperature registers 150°, remove the bird from the oven. We know that sounds low, but don’t be alarmed. The turkey’s temperature will continue to rise for at least 30 minutes after the oven roasting is done.
You can check the temperature of the dark meat, too, but turkey legs and thighs have usually reached temperature way before the breast meat does. Worried about overcooking the thighs? Don’t be. They can withstand a temperature up to 190° and still be wonderfully juicy.
The bird’s been through a lot—let it rest.
If it’s juicy meat you’re after, letting the cooked turkey rest on the cutting board at room temperature is a crucial step. Why? The muscles tighten while cooking, so letting the bird rest gives those muscles time to relax and the juices a chance to redistribute. Keep the prying uncles and sniffy dogs away for at least 30 minutes and up to an hour.
Will it go cold turkey in that time? No. That thing retains heat like an industrial sleeping bag. Resist the temptation to cover the turkey with aluminum foil or any other shield, which will turn the skin soggy.
Use the time to put the finishing touches on your mashed potatoes, green bean casserole, cranberry sauce, turkey gravy, and other side dishes. Get the stuffing into the oven to reheat. Make bundles of fresh herbs to tuck onto the platter of sliced turkey like you’re Martha Stewart. Or, uh, take a crash course in how to carve a turkey, a skill you will no doubt need very shortly.
As for the leftover turkey, you need not limit yourself to turkey sandwiches and post-Thanksgiving melts. Turn it into pot pie, pozole, or congee (which takes care of the turkey carcass too).
Additional reporting contributed by Alex Beggs.